Hi all, I was just wondering if any of you out there could recommend a better filler/putty than milliput? It's just been getting in the way of modelling progress recently as it takes ages to set, when it does set, you begin sanding it and it clogs up the paper, and unfortunately more often than not (whether it's my ow lack of talent or something?) I end up with an uneven surface finish
I only use Milliput for major jobs and then tend to finish with their super fine putty.
The Wookster swears by car body repair putty. Can't remember the brand he uses, sorry
Chris
Try Isopon P38,car filler. you will get it in most car accessory shops. (As recommended by The Wooksta)
It sets in about 15 minutes and sands easily.
The only downside is that it does have a rather pungent smell.
For sanding, use wet and dry paper, and use it very wet. I normally do any sanding over the kitchen sink with plenty of water in it.
Jim
My advice is to use Milliput with a drop of water when mixing it.
A better putty is Perfect Plastic Putty from Deluxe which is ideal for gaps of up to 3mm wide. It sands really smooth and sets well.
Quote from: Nick on January 07, 2017, 04:54:21 AM
A better putty is Perfect Plastic Putty from Deluxe which is ideal for gaps of up to 3mm wide. It sands really smooth and sets well.
Concur with this but Milliput and P38 (cheers Jim :thumbsup:) have the benefit of being better for major "structural" work. Something I don't do much of. PPP is the best "normal" filler I have used.
I use 2 component (car) bodyfiller for the large jobs. Gets really hard in about 15 minutes, sands easily and best to sand wet like JayBee wrote. Can't notice the pungent smell...( oh, think I got used to it..;-))
After sanding of the body filler there are usually cavities in the filler opened. I use Revell Plasto to fill these (cheap and easy to find), although i'm not really happy with it. I think it doesn't stick to some plastics (think it's actually PVC) and reacts with enamels based on thinner/tolueen. I learned this when painting the F-84LR, Myasichev an again with the IH Transall......all plasto filled parts tend to absord the alclad paint, paint gets matte and filler wrinkles.... After some experimenting I learned this reaction is over when a primer is used.
I'm soon going to try PPP....read very positive reviews about it on this forum.
David
Hi i used 2 component Aves Modelling and Work Putty, it is very Great essay to use and having a good working time.
http://www.apoxie.com
I use Milliput for big jobs and either Vallejo putty or Perfect Plastic putty for smaller jobs. I let the Milliput dry for at least 24 hours. Sanding can be a bit of a bugger but I tend to scrape it with a modelling blade first and then sand afterwards. Yes, it clogs up the sandpaper but I put up with that.
Milliput does need at least 24h drying time before sanding. Also, wet sanding helps prevent it from clogging up the sandpaper.
Fantastic responses thanks guys, I do use a craft knife to scrape the surface flat, i will try out the wet sanding idea, not thought to do that before :thumbsup: will also track down some P38 as that sounds very promising ;D
I use Aves Apoxy Sculpt 2-part water-based epoxy.
Brilliant stuff!
Cures to about the same consistency & hardness as styrene, sticks to most plastics, can be smoothed off with a wet finger or damp cloth before it cures, doesn't shrink, no noxious odours & cures in about 2 hours.
Down side is that it does clog sandpaper & files if it hasn't cured completely/correctly, although using a wet wet-&-dry sandpaper will circumvent the worst of that, & it works best if there's something for it to "grab" onto or hook into, as it doesn't react with the plastic..
Quote from: Nick on January 07, 2017, 04:54:21 AM
A better putty is Perfect Plastic Putty from Deluxe which is ideal for gaps of up to 3mm wide. It sands really smooth and sets well.
Don't like it. It's really just a finer Polyfilla and being water based won't key into the plastic. Took me four attempts to fill a sinkhole.
And at a fiver for a smallish tube, way overpriced when I can pay the same and get four times the amount with normal Polyfilla.
Quote from: The Wooksta! on January 09, 2017, 08:11:44 AM
And at a fiver for a smallish tube, way overpriced when I can pay the same and get four times the amount with normal Polyfilla.
AND you can fill cracks in the plaster with it too. ;D
I'll chime in an praise my preffered weapon, err, putty of choice: Presto Finish (from Dupli-Color/Motip, IIRC), a fine nitrous compound putty for car bodies and final surface prep. Similar to Revell's Plasto, but much better to work with, less brittle and evenly mixed. A bit smelly, but bonds perfectly with IP and works well on resin and even metal.
as a sculptor I have used a lot of different putties but now only use 3
Magic sculpt or larger pieces or wen it need to be carved
Procreate for figures and really small pieces, also nice for filling smaller gaps in hard to reach places that cant be sanded later
wen I can sand it it later I use Tamiya white
a mix of magic and procreate is good for almost all jobs but I hardly ever take the time to mix it
After the disaster that befell my 777-900, I used three different putties in different layers, and it all erupted in bubbles and chaos which took MONTHS to stop reacting, I stick with Dizzy's Presto almost exclusively.
Just now and then I use Polyfilla Fine finish for very fine jobs, but never on top of, or underneath the Presto.
I use a combination of Humbrol putty, Homebase flexible filler and superglue. If the gaps wider than a mm I'll pack in some plastic rod, putty, smooth with spirit, let dry, superglue, let dry, thin layer of putty, smooth, dry and sand. Bit long winded but works miricles. Very small gaps I use flexible filler on top of superglue...usually does the trick (as long as you use your pinky to smooth it right ;D.
I bought some of the perfect plastic putty to give it a try. Not reet happy with it, as when I was squeezing it out of the tube, the end of the tube split open and covered my hand in the contents. So, there goes 7 quid. :banghead: :banghead:
Chris.
I'd send it back, that's very poor QC.
Quote from: PR19_Kit on January 23, 2017, 02:16:43 PM
I'd send it back, that's very poor QC.
Just a bit, I had only just started to use the stuff too
My favorite putty, Super glue and baby powder. I can get it anywhere. It cures fast, hard and does not shrinks. As well as does not clog up sand paper. Sands beautifully (Always wear a dust mask while sanding)and you can rescribe panel lines. I use it on all my projects
(https://www.whatifmodellers.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv61%2Ffar148%2FRF-20_6.jpg&hash=84cd5924a2fa0513a4ebbebb6217a79443fadf3f)
(https://www.whatifmodellers.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv61%2Ffar148%2FRF-20_7.jpg&hash=120327a975bc7a95651485c27afbe9223ecbdd1f)
(https://www.whatifmodellers.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv61%2Ffar148%2FRF-20_9.jpg&hash=fb1ca1dd9d456cac0d0bcf0d6209b3d70a899961)
(https://www.whatifmodellers.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv61%2Ffar148%2FIMG_4023.jpg&hash=14a4270f00b7f057de5caa74802649d9e445be0a)
(https://www.whatifmodellers.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv61%2Ffar148%2FIMG_4029.jpg&hash=50a490420b472b155386d2fceab7782a95ff3161)
(https://www.whatifmodellers.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv236%2Flewis148%2FIMG_4120.jpg&hash=5fab7b751a1e3f5ab769b59b32d8b1b031d21fe4)
(https://www.whatifmodellers.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv236%2Flewis148%2FIMG_4125.jpg&hash=e57a3066c11911d0b581528f2c68406af4a08a32)
That's my 2 cents,
Steven L :thumbsup:
I've used CA and baking soda. Sets right now! Put down the CA, apply the baking soda then blow off the excess.
I also use Perfect Plastic putty, Bondo spot filler and Aves Epoxie Sculpt. Aves is best on larger areas and things that will bear weight. Each has its virtues in different situations. I've never had a problem with fillers reacting with each other but then I tend to let them dry/cure a least a day. That's just my build pattern, not a conscious decision.
FAR128, what kind of ratio and mixing method do you use for your baby powder and super glue? Also, wet or dry sand it??? :lol:
I can glue my fingers together, my arm to the bench and the tube to my lip applying tiny drops of superglue to the end of ezy line when rigging.
I dread to think of the havoc i would wreak using the amounts i'd need to use when using it as filler.
I use PPP or Tamiya Polyester Putty.
I dry-sand with fingernail sanding sticks I buy from the chemists, wet and dry of various grades, detail sanders of three different grades, and a number of sponge sanding pads of various grades culminating on one i've used for years which is completely clogged to such an extent that it is perfect for that final polish before paint. Getting it wet would ruin it by unclogging it.
Must admit I make my own sanding sticks using emery paper, coffee stirrers/lolly sticks and "padded" double side tape. Means I can make them any grit and width I want.
Quote from: kerick on January 23, 2017, 05:01:23 PM
I've never had a problem with fillers reacting with each other but then I tend to let them dry/cure a least a day.
The various fillers on my 777-900 disaster were reacting with each other and causing blisters and bumps after three MONTHS! :banghead:
I guess it depends on what sort of filler they are and in what order they are applied.
Quote from: NARSES2 on January 24, 2017, 06:06:26 AM
Must admit I make my own sanding sticks using emery paper, coffee stirrers/lolly sticks and "padded" double side tape. Means I can make them any grit and width I want.
:thumbsup:...absolutely brilliant for air intakes etc. Once spent hours and !ing (who's a Mr Tulip then?) hours using them on the intakes on a 1/48 B-1b...only effective method. Then spent hours and !ing hours cutting and sanding the anti-radar baffles. Bu**er of a kit but stunning if you put the time in. Hung on fishing line fills a stairwell a treat too ;D
Just an FYI, but the March 2017 issue of FineScale Modeler magazine will be having an article review of different modeling puttys. ;)
Quotewhat kind of ratio and mixing method do you use for your baby powder and super glue? Also, wet or dry sand it??? :lol:
It depends on what it is I'm filling. If it's a little thin gap, I make it thick enough to bridge and fill the gap. The way I mix mine is I dump out a small pile of baby powder on a piece of cardboard and add the super glue to it. Mixing it as I add until I'm happy with the mix. I have noticed if you have a higher powder ratio to glue, it will set up quicker. I use gel type super glue, it does not has to be a name brand to work. You will have to play around with the mix and you will see what works well for you. You might like it super thick or runny... :thumbsup:
Once it is set up and cured, you can sand wet or dry.
Steven L :cheers:
perfect plastic putty is pretty good, but getting the stuff out of the tube if it is an old one is damn hard..any suggestions?
Quote from: FAR148 on January 24, 2017, 03:10:24 PM
Quotewhat kind of ratio and mixing method do you use for your baby powder and super glue? Also, wet or dry sand it??? :lol:
It depends on what it is I'm filling. If it's a little thin gap, I make it thick enough to bridge and fill the gap. The way I mix mine is I dump out a small pile of baby powder on a piece of cardboard and add the super glue to it. Mixing it as I add until I'm happy with the mix. I have noticed if you have a higher powder ratio to glue, it will set up quicker. I use gel type super glue, it does not has to be a name brand to work. You will have to play around with the mix and you will see what works well for you. You might like it super thick or runny... :thumbsup:
Once it is set up and cured, you can sand wet or dry.
Steven L :cheers:
Fantastic guide, thank you :thumbsup:
Quote from: Allan on January 24, 2017, 09:56:01 PM
perfect plastic putty is pretty good, but getting the stuff out of the tube if it is an old one is damn hard..any suggestions?
A drill bit works wonders.
Quote from: Hobbes on January 25, 2017, 03:35:39 AM
Quote from: Allan on January 24, 2017, 09:56:01 PM
perfect plastic putty is pretty good, but getting the stuff out of the tube if it is an old one is damn hard..any suggestions?
A drill bit works wonders.
I just use the tip of the old scalpel I use to apply it with. I also clean the end up after use
Don't forget to clean out the inside of the PPP lid. Residue collects and hardens in the recess in the centre and then the lid won't seal properly.
Quote from: zenrat on January 25, 2017, 11:57:02 PM
Don't forget to clean out the inside of the PPP lid. Residue collects and hardens in the recess in the centre and then the lid won't seal properly.
I get exactly the same problem with my Presto filler. I tend to scoop out the surplus from the screw down cap first every time I use the stuff.