The ex-Hungarian Ta 152 prior to a half arsed repaint.

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I don't know what can take off Xtracrylix now that Fairy Power Spray Is long gone.

The Italian Fw 190D-9.  I've yet to redecal it.
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That Italian 190 has given me an idea 

  

Two more getting close to decalling.

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Two shots of either a D-9/U or a D-10.  The latter was essentially a D-9 with a Jumo 213C engine which would accept a cannon firing through the spinner and a Ta 152 tail as standard.
Academy kit with an Airwaves Ta 152 tail (I think, might be of my copies), as well as the cannon blisters from the Revell Fw 190. Scheme is the NJG one I mentioned in me Blog a week or so back, the whole tail being in 84 as though it was manufactured in a different factory.  Might get a white rudder for a giraffe.

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Two shots of a D-9 rebuilt for the FR role.  The feathered mottled edges didn't come out quite how I wanted. I need both more practice and a fine needle and head for me airbrush.  The tail on this one is definitely the Airwaves one, but I can't remember who did the top cowling.  The oblique recce camera pack is my clone of the Kora one.
Can't be seen, but the underside colour is 76, the other lighter colour being "84". Actually RAF Sky, but only because I can't get Mil Mi 28 Grey/Green in acrylic.

Coming along nicely Lee 

Those two are looking very good, Lee!

Quote from: The Wooksta! on March 15, 2024, 02:18:26 PMTwo shots of a D-9 rebuilt for the FR role.  The feathered mottled edges didn't come out quite how I wanted. I need both more practice and a fine needle and head for me airbrush.

My experience with WWII German camo schemes is very limited, i only tried it once to test my airbrush skills, just a few months after i bought my first one back in 2016. It has a .03mm needle/nozzle, which is the one i still use most of the time.
I did learn some valuable lessons and it made me change the way i saw an airbrush, which was like an "easier-to-use" spray gun. It made me look at it and use it more like a versatile and adjustable paint brush.
Looking at the pics, it seems to be a scheme very similar to the one i did, correct?

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I started with the complete camo all over the top and sides and then masked up at the uppermost limit where the camo would be "clean".

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After covering the underside areas with the solid color, i thinned the paint (XF-2) quite a bit past the normal spraying thickness, lowered the compressor's output pressure down to where it was just able to atomize the paint and spray it.
I fully closed the trigger action on the airbrush and then opened it just half a turn of the limiter, to get the proper amount of paint out without having to worry about pulling the trigger back too much and flooding the area.
I got in close to spray, the tip of the airbrush at around 1,5 to 2,5cm from the model's surface, sometimes even closer, just enough to let me see the spray line under light and the area where the paint went on, in order to keep it from pooling or spidering.
Patiently worked my way up towards the mask, building up the color and creating the spots as i went to keep it random and uneven. When i was almost reaching the mask all around the fuselage, i removed it and did the final blending freehanded, pointing the AB at an angle from the top and away from the model to prevent overspray on the "clean" camo areas.

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As a i said, this was my first and only WWII German camo scheme so far but, i actually believe it came out pretty decent for a first try so i'm hoping that maybe this can help.
From my experience, i believe that the thin paint, low air pressure, trigger control and the distance at which you spray are the "secret" of the thing but, as you said, takes practice to get the right mix. I had some practice for this exercise by pre-shading a 1/72 F-86E but i did practice a bit more before that on card board when i first got the AB.
The smaller needle/nozzle will obviously make the job easier but the truth is that practicing the lines, circles, squares, dots and waves, etc., is indeed very good to get to know the tool and to loosen up the hand and trigger finger.

Sorry for the long post, Lee. I know there's a lot more to a good representation of these schemes and i'm galaxies away from being an expert on the matter, just sharing my experience hoping it helps.

Quote from: The Wooksta! on March 14, 2024, 04:33:28 PMThe ex-Hungarian Ta 152 prior to a half arsed repaint.

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I don't know what can take off Xtracrylix now that Fairy Power Spray Is long gone.

I'd given it a coat of overall RLM 83 dark green but was so unhappy with it, it nearly went in the bin.  However, I tried stripping it with a snide Mr Muscle from Home Bargains called Dr Magic.  Quarter of the price and a bigger can.

Anyhoo, model goes into a ziplock bag, can sprayed in then sealed and left for a day or so.  It cut through the Xtracrylix and dissolved the Aeromaster stuff underneath.  Result.

Finally gave it a coat of primer earlier.  It's going Czech, but I'm not entirely sold on a scheme.

Quote from: The Wooksta! on February 14, 2024, 02:00:39 PMAnd after a few minutes with some spare decals...

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Also given some varnish earlier.  Another one from 1998 that might get finished soonish.

Quote from: The Wooksta! on August 25, 2024, 02:13:26 PM

Quote from: The Wooksta! on March 14, 2024, 04:33:28 PMThe ex-Hungarian Ta 152 prior to a half arsed repaint.

You cannot view this attachment.

I don't know what can take off Xtracrylix now that Fairy Power Spray Is long gone.

I'd given it a coat of overall RLM 83 dark green but was so unhappy with it, it nearly went in the bin.  However, I tried stripping it with a snide Mr Muscle from Home Bargains called Dr Magic.  Quarter of the price and a bigger can.

Anyhoo, model goes into a ziplock bag, can sprayed in then sealed and left for a day or so.  It cut through the Xtracrylix and dissolved the Aeromaster stuff underneath.  Result.

Finally gave it a coat of primer earlier.  It's going Czech, but I'm not entirely sold on a scheme.

Why not use one of the schemes used for the S-199

Gondor