Hey all,

I'd like to take the framing off an F-14 clear windshield to make it look more like an F-15 or F-18. Can I just sand it back to the correct profile then use standard canopy polishing techniques (wet sand, Tamiya polish, etc)?

Thanks.

Yes, and that will be the only option if you have to modify the hardware: carefully wet-sanding with very high grit sandpaper or sanding mesh, and then polish it back to translucent state.

When you have worked through finer and finer grades of abrasive paper then use metal polish, cutting compound, or toothpaste for the final polish.

You will also need ample supplies of "Elbow Grease" 

Gondor

Quote from: zenrat on July 29, 2024, 05:04:40 AM, or toothpaste for the final polish.

Absolutely, the magic ingredient 

Thanks all! I'm going to try to tackle this on the weekend.

Also, support the canopy from the inside. Clear styrene is more brittle than regular styrene. If you put too much pressure, without supporting the canopy, it will show internal stress cracks or even fracture.

Quote from: frank2056 on July 31, 2024, 05:32:19 PMAlso, support the canopy from the inside. Clear styrene is more brittle than regular styrene. If you put too much pressure, without supporting the canopy, it will show internal stress cracks or even fracture.

Yup, good point    Blue tack, or similar is good for this.

So...

Different strategy.

I've cut the rear portion of an F-15C canopy and would like to cut and replace the front canopy glass on my Tamiya 1/48 F-14D. Purpose is to build out a Tomcat 21.

I think dimensionally this should work OK, just have to be very precise with my cuts.

Question is, what adhesive can I use that will be strong enough to hold the 2 parts together yet dries reasonably clear? It'd be great to get something with immediate tack so I don't have to hold the parts together (somehow).

Use CA glue, drop a blob on an old CD, let it outgas for a couple of minutes, use toothpick to apply.
But i think that it's better to get the parts to be as close to perfect fit to reduce the amount of glue needed and eliminate the "hold in place" bit. If the parts fit well enough, you can even use Tamiya Extra Thin or Quick Setting. Just let the capillary action do its thing.

My thought would be to glue the two parts on the model separately.
If they're accurate enough it should be fine, and if not then with one securely in place, you can tweak the other part without having to constantly worry whether you're putting them back in exactly the same places each time you check the fit.

Quote from: Rick Lowe on August 17, 2024, 02:04:37 AMMy thought would be to glue the two parts on the model separately.
If they're accurate enough it should be fine, and if not then with one securely in place, you can tweak the other part without having to constantly worry whether you're putting them back in exactly the same places each time you check the fit.

Dry-fitting is your friend... The parts are very different so, there'll be the cutting out of the old windscreen and he's gonna have to shape the rest to accept the Eagle's clear part on and i think that it'll be easier to do before the fuselage bit is glued in place. But i agree that once he's got the windscreen and fuselage bit fitting close enough to perfect, they should be glued on separately, allowing for minor scraping or sanding adjustments on the fuselage bit before the windscreen is glued on it.

Quote from: DogfighterZen on August 17, 2024, 02:35:19 AM

Quote from: Rick Lowe on August 17, 2024, 02:04:37 AMMy thought would be to glue the two parts on the model separately.
If they're accurate enough it should be fine, and if not then with one securely in place, you can tweak the other part without having to constantly worry whether you're putting them back in exactly the same places each time you check the fit.

Dry-fitting is your friend... The parts are very different so, there'll be the cutting out of the old windscreen and he's gonna have to shape the rest to accept the Eagle's clear part on and i think that it'll be easier to do before the fuselage bit is glued in place. But i agree that once he's got the windscreen and fuselage bit fitting close enough to perfect, they should be glued on separately, allowing for minor scraping or sanding adjustments on the fuselage bit before the windscreen is glued on it.

For sure, I'd mod the Eagle part to fit into where the Tomcat part is removed.

I'm going to use flexible tape to mask off the Tomcat canopy frame, then use a super-fine saw to remove the area I want to replace. I used the saw to cut the Eagle canopy in half and it left a very clean edge.

Quote from: jaabdad on August 16, 2024, 02:51:10 PMQuestion is, what adhesive can I use that will be strong enough to hold the 2 parts together yet dries reasonably clear? It'd be great to get something with immediate tack so I don't have to hold the parts together (somehow).

G&S Hypo Watch Crystal Cement is somewhat tacky when first applied, dries completely clear. It's great for attaching clear parts and you only need a small amount - the small tube will last for years.

Quote from: frank2056 on August 17, 2024, 10:22:51 AM

Quote from: jaabdad on August 16, 2024, 02:51:10 PMQuestion is, what adhesive can I use that will be strong enough to hold the 2 parts together yet dries reasonably clear? It'd be great to get something with immediate tack so I don't have to hold the parts together (somehow).

G&S Hypo Watch Crystal Cement is somewhat tacky when first applied, dries completely clear. It's great for attaching clear parts and you only need a small amount - the small tube will last for years.

Good info! I just bought a tube.