Too much contrast.  71 isn't much lighter than 70 - so much so that when the first Luftwaffe wrecks were recovered, they were said to be in overall dark green.  With the Ju 390 and Fw 200 I did recently in 70/71, I could barely tell the colour difference at all.  It's only holding the Condor under the light I can see any difference and that's only due to texture, not colour contrast.

This is the Xtracrylix 71 on the Ju 390.

If it's a maritime recce one, you should be using 72/73 over 65.  Again, not much contrast there.  My recent Fw 190s have used those.

It's been CAPTURED, that's why it's YELLOW underneath!

And it was repurposed by the RLM for testing the long wing, double engine system, and it just happened to be available.

And the 70/71 mix that I've got is the colour of the paint that I've got.....................

And anyway, it's a Whiff!

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Quote from: PR19_Kit on September 25, 2024, 06:37:55 AMBut that 83 is one WIERD colour, almost Schwarz Grun, but not quite, and so thin it's not true. It's almost a 'wash'.

Which Hataka set are you using Kit ? I've used the 83 on a couple of my models and it looks ok    They are on the thin side though, even the "Blue Line" for brushes, but I find 2 coats for the lighter colours is usually ok.

Quote from: The Wooksta! on September 25, 2024, 02:22:58 PMYou cannot view this attachment.

Says the one who mutters "My Friggin Model" to any one who dares to asks          

Quote from: NARSES2 on September 26, 2024, 12:44:17 AMWhich Hataka set are you using Kit ? I've used the 83 on a couple of my models and it looks ok    They are on the thin side though, even the "Blue Line" for brushes, but I find 2 coats for the lighter colours is usually ok.

I don't know Chris, I always take them out of the box and put a splodge of the paint on their caps and then stack all the greens together, all the greys together etc.

I think it came in the set I got for my Bv 148 last year, which would be the 'Late Luftwaffe' set I think. The 'BoB Luftwaffe' set I've just got, with only 4 bottles included. is the one with the RLM71, and that's 2 or 3 times as 'coverable' as the other green. And all mine are Blue Series anyway.

Quote from: Martin H on September 26, 2024, 12:56:54 AMSays the one who mutters "My Friggin Model" to any one who dares to asks          

Yes, exactly! 

I gave the 119 a brush coat of Klear, as usual, and found to my horror that the Klear seems to have gone off somehow. It's too thick and didn't dry with the usual glass smooth finish, and each brush stroke was visible as a 'bump' in the varnish. 

So I came up with a Plan B to very lightly sand the Klear coat down so it was smoother and then give the whole model a spray coat of the varnish I use to clear coat my decals. I tested that idea on the two floats and it seemed to work OK, so I've done the whole model like that now.

A few places suffered from the 'light' sanding, but I have a Plan C to overcome that too. 

As it's a captured aircraft the damaged areas could be overpainted with patches of RAF Dark Green, done at the same time as they painted the yellow undersides and overpainted the Luftwaffe markings!

Kit's 2nd Rule applies of course. 

Quote from: PR19_Kit on September 26, 2024, 07:53:52 AMKit's 2nd Rule applies of course. 

As always!! 

Quote from: PR19_Kit on September 26, 2024, 05:45:01 AMI think it came in the set I got for my Bv 148 last year, which would be the 'Late Luftwaffe' set I think.

That's the set I use, and as I said no problems so far.

The V10's all painted and decaled now, and doesn't look too bad, although the varnishing was a bit hit & miss. Halford's idea of 'Satin' is like my idea of 'Gloss' and their 'Matt' looks pretty 'Satin' to me, so it's been 'Matted' all over and looks nicely 'Satined'.......... 

Got to glue the floats, struts, ladders (yes, really....) and prop on and it's done.

Well, almost, bar the detail odds and ends of course.

These BLOODY floats are driving me round the bend!         

The glue area at the top of the struts is nowhere near large enough to get them stick in place! Because you really have to paint the thing before you glue the floats in place or you'd never be able to mask it properly, gluing the floats is a superglue job, and they just WON'T stay in position while it goes off, no matter how long you hold it there.

Adding  the extra struts, assuming the floats will stay in place long enough, is an equally maddening job. They're too long so you have to trim them to length and then wriggle them into position between the fuselage and the floats, and hope their glue goes off too. The ladders, one on each side, don't have any pads on their ends, so they're butt jointed onto the fuselage and the floats as well!

How I'll ever carry this thing anywhere goodness only knows, it's far too fragile to even stand up properly!

So far I've got one float attached with all its struts and the ladder, but the other one is a real PITA! And now one strut has just snapped in half, damn it! 

Are the struts big enough to pin? That's the only thing other than building a jig that I can think of.

Gondor

No, they're about 1.2 mm wide and less than 0.5 mm thick.

To make matters worse, when the floats are in position the model rests on the step of the floats and the very tips of the two water rudders right at the aft end of the floats! As the rudders are separate pieces, and glued on with about a 1 sq mm. of glue area, there's NO chance that they'll stay on, and in fact both have snapped off twice now.       

I'm going to cut the lower tips of them right off so the weight is taken by end of the floats and not by the rudders. Proper scale look be damned!

Would using UV setting resin as the glue be an option? You probably wouldn't need much and it can be filed to remove any lumps.

Another option, but more work and more fraught, would be to drill the attachment points and make the struts from wire with thin card wrapping.