Not exactly what I had in mind...............

It's re-sprayed it now and I'm thinking bout those BLOODY prop blades!

I'm also currently having fun with some Tamiya acrylics.

It's what I call "one stroke" paint. Even when thinned you can only go over a part with one stroke because if you use a second stroke over the same area, even almost immediately after the first, it starts to lift the first layer  Anyway starting to get used to it now, but will be getting some Hataka Japanese colours at SMW (if on) for future projects, of which I have a few.

Not got much option at the moment. Thought I had some White Ensign Japanese surface colours, but haven't. So its either Tamiya or Xtracolour, which of course has exactly the opposite problem and never drys 

The annoying thing is that I can't remember having this problem with the same paint 4/5 years ago ??

EXACTLY the same as the problem I had Chris.

I found that after 30 mins or so you could put another coat on and make it more opaque, thank goodness. But the Gunze Sangyo/Mr. Hobby stigg, that comes in an almost identical jar, doesn't do that. Weird.

Quote from: PR19_Kit on May 25, 2020, 06:08:59 AM
I found that after 30 mins or so you could put another coat on and make it more opaque, thank goodness.

Yup, that's what I'm doing. Giving it an hour or so.

Airbrushing: I tend to leave Tamiya paints to dry/cure for about an hour, if I'm being patient, 30min if not.

Hairy-stick brushing: I try to leave for at least a day but overnight at minimum.

Tamiya paints can, & do, eat into & lift the first coat if it isn't sufficiently dry/cured.


Note: Temperature & humidity can, obviously, have an effect on these times; so I only use them as a guide, usually (OK, "sometimes") checking the paint for when it touch-dries & trebling that.

Cheers Mr Wombat 

I'll go back to overnight with the Tamiya, which is longer than White Ensign Enamels and far far longer than Hataka. Indeed I could use Xtracolour with that timing. I need to give it some thought and see what I'm comfortable with as I have a few more Japanese projects lined up.

I'm going to have another rummage for the White Ensign stuff. I can't have bought all their internal and minor external Japanese colours and not the major ones, can I  ?

Today I was being really impatient (& using isopropyl alcohol as a thinning agent) & only allowed 10 minutes between coats, which was fine.

I may tend to be a bit cautions, having had to re-paint due to impatience somewhat too often.

Quote from: PR19_Kit on May 25, 2020, 06:08:59 AM
I found that after 30 mins or so you could put another coat on and make it more opaque, thank goodness.

I just can confirm this since I am using Tamiya paint on my current project on the workbench. However, thanks to my painting "technique" with post-panel-shading through dry-brushing, I can in most cases overpaint/hide thin areas where the underground shines through.

Grrrrrr, more problems with Tamiya acrylics.   

I find that if I haven't used a particular pot for some time the inner plastic lid gets stuck onto the rim of the pot, and levering it off results in large amounts of paint ending up on my fingers and thumb.

Having to clean myself extensively even BEFORE I start to paint the model is more than a trifle irritating. And even then I find traces of the paint still on me after a day or so! Why not switch to the lovely Hataka style dropper bottles Mr. Tamiya?

I've given up on Tamiya paints I'm afraid although I like their filler and glue.

Quote from: PR19_Kit on September 09, 2022, 05:32:46 AMWhy not switch to the lovely Hataka style dropper bottles Mr. Tamiya?

Even Humbrol have for their acrylics although the range has been reduced yet again 

Quote from: PR19_Kit on September 09, 2022, 05:32:46 AMGrrrrrr, more problems with Tamiya acrylics.   

I find that if I haven't used a particular pot for some time the inner plastic lid gets stuck onto the rim of the pot, and levering it off results in large amounts of paint ending up on my fingers and thumb.

Having to clean myself extensively even BEFORE I start to paint the model is more than a trifle irritating. And even then I find traces of the paint still on me after a day or so! Why not switch to the lovely Hataka style dropper bottles Mr. Tamiya?

It helps if you wipe the top of the jar & the thread clean after each use, Kit. If you forget to do that, then levering the edge of the lid out & dropping in either some methylated spirits, Tamiya X-20A Acrylic Thinner or isopropyl alcohol, & continuing around the lid levering the edge out a little bit usually does the trick. Happens to me all the time because I'm particularly useless at cleaning the tops of the jars & I've never been covered in paint (except by other means).

I tried wiping the top of the jar afterward, yes, but the semi-dried paint on there was like glue! I ended with half my paint rag fastened to the jar. 

Quote from: PR19_Kit on September 09, 2022, 05:32:46 AMGrrrrrr, more problems with Tamiya acrylics.   

I find that if I haven't used a particular pot for some time the inner plastic lid gets stuck onto the rim of the pot, and levering it off results in large amounts of paint ending up on my fingers and thumb.

Having to clean myself extensively even BEFORE I start to paint the model is more than a trifle irritating. And even then I find traces of the paint still on me after a day or so! Why not switch to the lovely Hataka style dropper bottles Mr. Tamiya?

The Tamiya acrylics are an entirely different type of paint with a carrier that is primarily alcohols and glycols
rather than water. A plastic squeeze bottle wouldn't be a good idea long term.

BTW Tamiya Acrylics aren't and never were marketed as "water-based", rather they are "water-soluble".

Quote from: PR19_Kit on September 09, 2022, 09:50:29 AMI tried wiping the top of the jar afterward, yes, but the semi-dried paint on there was like glue! I ended with half my paint rag fastened to the jar. 

If the paint's too thick it's best carefully sliced off (to avoid bits falling into the jar) with a knife then cleaned with any of the previously mentioned solvents (I prefer isopropyl alcohol but the others work just as well).

The glue factor is why Tamiya (or Gunze) acrylic clear is great for sticking PE scripts to model cars.