Windscreen-Fuselage Blend

[sequoiaranger]

I'm a little surprised that on some otherwise excellent model aircraft, there is a noticeable "break" where the canopy meets the fuselage (yes, I know it's a separate piece, but we are trying for realism here). Often, too, the body of a plane is airbrushed, but the canopy framing is hand-painted --AND IT SHOWS. If one looks on real aircraft, there is no break, and the paint is continuous from body to framing.  I found a way to duplicate this look:

I make sure the canopy framing (that is, any framing that wouldn't be a moving part) blends into the fuselage with white glue carefully smoothed and filleted with a wet Q-tip into the separation line. Sometimes several applications are necessary, as the glue dries and shrinks a little. But within a few applications there is a smooth transition between body and canopy-frame with no indentation at the meeting of two parts. Then, to "ensure" that the paint is uniform, when I mask the canopy for spraying the body, I stop the mask at the lowest portion of the "clear" part, and deliberately do NOT mask the canopy framing that is next to the fuselage. Thus, when spraying is over, there is no discernible transition between fuselage and canopy. I *DO* paint the canopy frames with a brush (too much work to mask off the individual frames in 1/72-scale), but the beholder's eye is fooled by the sprayed framing, and the continuation of the frame painted with a brush seems not nearly as noticeable as when my method is NOT used.

I offer as an example, my "Gloster Goatsucker" in close-up. Notice the ring around the glazed nose piece (BARELY noticeable--and this is 1/72!) and the pilot's canopy. I know it may be hard to see in this photo, but the concept of the "blend" is there--no visible separation line between canopy and fuselage--that's the whole idea!

Try it and give me some feedback!

[Brian da Basher]

The white glue technique is one of the tricks I use too. White glue is excellent for filling small gaps and dries clear. It's also great for attaching canopies as well. No worries about fogging or crazing the clear parts!

Brian da Basher

[sequoiaranger]

Since I discovered it, I have been using "RC-56" white glue used for radio-control (hence the name RC) applications. This glue is stronger than normal "Elmers" and just as easy to use. It dries clear. I still use "Elmers" for gap applications, but for holding canopies down, especially vac-formed ones that are very thin, the extra strength of the RC-56 is just what I need.

Also, white glue is ideal for 1/72 scale nav lights. Just paint a dot of color (I use metallic red or metallic green) on the wingtips, then put a dot of white glue over it to form a small bubble as if a clear lens covers it. RC-56 is good for that, too, as it  doesn't seem to shrink as much as "Elmers".

[Brian da Basher]

I've found that "Gator Glue" is a great substitute for traditional white glue. While it's intended for attaching PE, it also dries clear and is stronger than regular "school glue". Some say Gator Glue is really a kind of wood glue, and I may try substituting it when my little bottle gets empty.

Brian da Basher

[Hawkeye]

I've found that I have to treat the canopy/windscreen just as I would any other part to make a seamless transition between them. Clear parts are more of a challenge and require a bit more planning but it can be done.

Doing the "dip" then masking to protect (paint interior if needed) you can begin the test fitting process. Test fit adjust, repeat until you have the best fit you can get. I find that using liquid solvents still works best. Followed by the necessary sanding and polishing to clean up the seam. In some situations you may find the need to use a filler to fill unavoidable gaps, or in the case of a very poor fit, blend the two parts together.

So many models are built with perfection with invisible seams, only to have the canopies and clear parts applied with gaps, misalignment or crooked. With the ability of precut masks, one can do a lot of sanding and filling to get a good blend between clear and solid parts. Then go back and polish out the scratches and imperfections and be able to replace the frame lines using the masks.

Which is another point, canopy framing is flush or nearly so with the glass it holds secure....many canopy part have exaggerated frame detail, that could stand to be sanded down to correct. A good example are many of the WWII aircraft that glazed forward sections with lots of little windows....Monograms 1:48 B-29 is a good example.

[sotoolslinger]

Testors clear parts cement and window maker. Great stuff and if you follow the instructions will actually make windows

[Brian da Basher]

Testors clear parts cement and window maker. Great stuff and if you follow the instructions will actually make windows

I'd better drag my workbench outta the cave and replace the stone knife with an X-acto first!

Brian da Basher