avatar_PR19_Kit

Canopy masking

Started by PR19_Kit, October 01, 2014, 04:10:36 AM

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PR19_Kit

If you're spraying a model, either by rattle can or airbrush, masking the canopy is a must, unless you can plug up the cockpit area of course.

I've never managed it easily and always seem to spend far too much time getting the cut lines correct, invariably taking it all off a few times and starting over. More recently I've tended to mask the entire canopy right down to the joint line with the fuselage and then hand-paint the frames aftwerward, which is what I used to do in the old days anyway.

How does everyone else get on with this, and what techniques do you use? And yes, I always use a brand new ultra-sharp scalpel blade and STILL I manage to screw it all up.....  :banghead:

I've only ever used the pre-cut masks once before, on my Douglas EKA-3B Skysearcher, and I was quite pleased with the result, although it pre-supposes you plan far enough ahead to actually have the correct mask set to hand before you start a build for this to work.
Kit's Rule 1 ) Any aircraft can be improved by fitting longer wings, and/or a longer fuselage
Kit's Rule 2) The backstory can always be changed to suit the model

...and I'm not a closeted 'Take That' fan, I'm a REAL fan! :)

Regards
Kit

JayBee

I use one of two ways.
If the canopy framing is complex I will spend the extra on a masking set.
However for simpler framing jobs I put a length of masking tape on a piece of plasticard, cut thin, about 1-2 mm, and use this to form an outline of the clear panel. The middle is then filled with masking liquid (eg Humbrol MASKOL).
Once the masking liquid is dry, I then paint the entire canopy in the appropriate interior colour, covering all the liquid mask as well.
This serves three purposes, 1/ the inside of the framing is the correct colour, 2/ this paint seals the edges of the masking, 3/ the masking fluid will not become hard and unremovable irrespective of how long you leave it. This last point I can say works certainly as long as six months, I speak from experience here.

Finally for the cutting of the masking tape, yes a nice new SHARP blade is used, and I always use a number 10 blade, put the tip where the cut begins and then just roll the blade along the required cut. It is far easier to control than with a straight blade, 10A or 11, where you have to actually pull the blade along the required cut.

Jim
Alle kunst ist umsunst wenn ein engel auf das zundloch brunzt!!

Sic biscuitus disintegratum!

Cats are not real. 
They are just physical manifestations of collisions between enigma & conundrum particles.

Any aircraft can be improved by giving it a SHARKMOUTH!

NARSES2

Interesting Jim. I may try that technique.

Masking is probably my least favourite part of this hobby. I'm useless at it. Eyesight doesn't help especially with the current iffy one but even then I'm just useless at it  :banghead:

At the moment on simple canopies I use thin strips of masking tape to outline the frame and then fill in with more tape. For the more complex types Hurricane, Blenheim etc I use strips of painted masking tape for the frames. Very much a cheat but it keeps me sane and various companies do ultra thin masking tape - down to 0.5mm. I find 0.75mm the most useful.
Do not condemn the judgement of another because it differs from your own. You may both be wrong.

zenrat

I hate masking.
I leave the canopy off until the end and then I paint the outside of the frames by hand and glue it on.
However, I do have some kits in my stash which will need "glass" to be installed before paint so i suppose i'm going to have to bite the bullet.
Fred

- Can't be bothered to do the proper research and get it right.

Another ill conceived, lazily thought out, crudely executed and badly painted piece of half arsed what-if modelling muppetry from zenrat industries.

zenrat industries:  We're everywhere...for your convenience..