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Rigging for WW1 a/c

Started by Ifor, March 27, 2015, 09:56:34 AM

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Ifor

Can anyone recommend any websites that show the rigging on various WW1 aircraft. There's quite a few that show how(knit one,pearl one), but not where. Never tried it before.

zenrat

Have you tried an interweb search for "rigging instructions <insert name here>" and then looking at the images?
I just tried it for Sopwith Camel and got useful results.

Fred

- Can't be bothered to do the proper research and get it right.

Another ill conceived, lazily thought out, crudely executed and badly painted piece of half arsed what-if modelling muppetry from zenrat industries.

zenrat industries:  We're everywhere...for your convenience..

tc2324

#2
For my 1/48 Gloster Gauntlet and Hawker Demon, I used Albion Alloys Round Nickel Silver Rod 0.2mm.



It`s quite rigid so you just need to snip it to size and then super glue in place.





Found it easier than other products on the market.
74 `Tiger` Sqn Association Webmaster

Tiger, Tiger!

Ifor

Thank you both for your help, appreciated.
Ifor

NARSES2

I had some success with the hairs from cheap household paint brushes in the past. Limited to 1/72 and possibly some 1/48 single seaters because of their limited length.

I've got some "Uschi" rigging thread to use on my Wingnut Roland when I get up enough courage to start it.
Do not condemn the judgement of another because it differs from your own. You may both be wrong.

Allan

paint brush hairs might be the go, but they might not be straight and how do you make them taut?

and that Albion alloys round nicket silver rod: I wonder if they make thinner stuff for 1/72
must check

Dizzyfugu

I have, many years ago, used flower binding wire on an 1:72 Matchbox Fairey Seafox. Worked well, but the material was much too thick. On the pro side, handling was pretty easy due to the material's stiffness and stability. Those straight 0.2mm wires look like a very good option.  :thumbsup:

Allan


NARSES2

Quote from: Allan on September 04, 2017, 08:59:42 PM
paint brush hairs might be the go, but they might not be straight and how do you make them taut?



They are fairly taught by nature Al. What I did was to drill all the way through the wing surface and pull the bristle through, hold it taught, super glue and snip it off. Then clean up. As I say it worked for me. No way near as good as some of the stuff I've seen at shows but looked better then no rigging at all.
Do not condemn the judgement of another because it differs from your own. You may both be wrong.

Allan

#9
yes, it's amazing how many inquiries there are about rigging on the modelling sites....the nickel rod idea sounds good, but you'd have to measure and cut the rod very accurately or else it'd be too short and you'd waste both it and your money
the paint brush idea is worth a try as you get quite a lot of bristles per brush, but to use it you'd have to use the drill a hole in the plastic approach, which many people dislike...nickel rod makes that unnecessary
if you use the paint bristle and want to place it between the upper and lower wings for example, here's how I'd do it
1. drill a small hole in the upper wing before or after you've cemented it in place...drill all the way through
2. drill a small depression in the upper surface of the lower wing...don't drill the hole all the way through
3. poke the bristle through the hole in the upper wing and then lead it to the depression in the lower wing
4. place some super glue in the depression and attach the bristle to the depression
5. tauten the bristle and place some super glue on the upper wing to hold it in possie
6. snip off the bristle flush with the upper wing
7. paint (and here comes the difficult bit perhaps...if you've already painted the upper wing a commercially prepared paint then you can use it, but if you mixed up your own mix to paint the upper wing beforehand you'll have to mix up some more in the exact same shade...might be hard to do if you didn't keep the  original mix....if you haven't painted the upper wing then you're faced with using a paint brush because using an airbrush on the upper wing in possie might produce overspray)

just my thoughts

NARSES2

Al.

Your thoughts re how to use bristle are  :thumbsup: If using nickle rod I would still drill one hole though just to give it some "purchase". I've not used that method so not sure if it's absolutely necessary.
Do not condemn the judgement of another because it differs from your own. You may both be wrong.

Allan

Hi Chris
I toddled off to the hardware shop, Bunnings, to have a look at the brushes on offer there and, by golly, you'd get a lot of bristles for your dough if you use the bristle technique. And it might just work.
First, you'd need black bristles, though if bought in another color you'd have to paint them using the technique you pointed out, Chris, of dragging it through a piece of cloth or cotton wool wet with paint.
Then you'd have to  make sure they're long enough, so the best way to ensure that is to buy a brush whose bristles are clearly too long.
And another thing, you just may get away without gluing the bristles, or some of them at any rate, if the two holes that the two ends of the bristle fit are deep enough and don't go all the way through the wing.
They look sturdy, though, when examing them and I got the impression that they just might be a little too thick for 1/72 scale. 1/48 planes might be suitable, though.


NARSES2

They are probably to thick for 1/72 Al but I've used the lighter coloured ones before as they don't stand out quite so much.
Do not condemn the judgement of another because it differs from your own. You may both be wrong.