Going to start a PLAAF An-26..

utahbob · September 06, 2018, 06:27:31 PM

Just received my Roden 1/72 scale AN-26 and will order Ozmods Lockheed C-130J Nacelle correction kit next week to "modernize" into a PLAAF An-26 - AC-130J. Still trying to figure out is I should purchase small D-30 122mm Soviet Howitzer or 2A45M Sprut-B Anti-Tank Gun for the tube as an analog to the 105mm cannon. And do the same with a USSR 37mm/67 (1.5") 70-K Artillery Gun as counterpart to the Borfors 40mm. I was thinking it might be easier to get some tubing from a hobby shop and will be faster and cheaper!

I am developing a back story for it to fly in support of the new PLASOFC in Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, North Korea or other AOs along the OBOR.

I will post images as I proceed. This will take a while with real life going on.

zenrat · September 07, 2018, 03:58:53 AM

Sounds intriguing. Keep us posted.

NARSES2 · September 07, 2018, 06:24:17 AM

Quote from: utahbob on September 06, 2018, 06:27:31 PM
I was thinking it might be easier to get some tubing from a hobby shop and will be faster and cheaper!

Almost certainly I would of thought, and cheaper.

AS.12 · September 07, 2018, 10:19:35 AM

I'd say the 122mm would be far too powerful for the An-26; from a quick calculation it has nearly twice the muzzle-energy of the M102 in the AC-130, which of course is much bigger ( 22kg at 565 m/s versus 15kg at 480 m/s )

I'd go for a 76mm ZiS-3 ( 6kg at 650 m/s ) supported by a couple of 14.5mm KPV. Should be able to plink anything quite accurately with that combo.

.

utahbob · September 07, 2018, 06:27:04 PM

AS.12,

Thanks for the tips and calculations! I will incorporate them.

Air21 · September 09, 2018, 04:53:55 PM

The Soviets had good luck with the 57mm too...

You might look at all the different Soviet mortars too, there was a serious look at replacing the 105 with a 120mm breach loading mortar. Mortars are relatively low energy and there are a lot of fun submunitions out there, cluster, guided, and top attack is their specialty.

I daydream about a C-2 with a 57mm in the back, a GAU-22 in the middle, and a Derringer door like on the HARVEST HAWK in the front.

utahbob · September 14, 2018, 10:06:39 AM

I was at the local hobby shop and found a rack full of Plastruct (https://plastruct.com/product-category/tubing-fittings/page/2/?filtering=1&filter_material=39) time to convert artillery tube length to 1/72 scale length. Also trying to figure out how to scratch build missile warning system sensors and Target Sight System (big I/R) cameras.

utahbob · February 12, 2019, 03:12:55 PM

I just got the Roden AN - 12 BK, OzMods C-130J Herc Engine Nacelle Correction with jig and a Zvezda "ZIS-# anti-tank gun, all in 1:72 scale. I am trying to figure out how to scratch build a Type 76F 37mm gun, AK-176 -76.2 mm cannon. It is a bit nippy in the basement, so I am putting the six bladed propellers. Now I am thinking of ways to scratch make a IR camera. https://www.flickr.com/photos/45915383@N08/47024301612

Thorvic · February 13, 2019, 12:08:34 AM

https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/UNIM655

This any use ?

utahbob · March 12, 2020, 05:10:28 PM

Hello, it has been a while since I posted about this model, but I have lots of time on my hands.

I put the propellers from OzMods together, but now I am trying to figure out how to attach them to the Roden engines. I was thinking of adding an extension shaft to the propeller, so it can go through hole in the engine mount and rig it so the propellers can be pulled out when transporting the model. I was looking for a YouTube video with no success for examples Any thoughts?

zenrat · March 13, 2020, 02:50:14 AM

I often glue a piece of styrene tube inside the nacelles and a piece of styrene rod on the back of the prop. Sizes chosen so the rod slides neatly into the tube.
The tube makes sure the props sit square and don't droop like they would if the rod was just slid into a hole with nothing behind it. As you say, this allows the props to be removed for transport.

Dizzyfugu also uses this technique but I believe he uses metal tube or rod on the back of the prop so it spins freely when finished.

Dizzyfugu · March 13, 2020, 03:13:38 AM

Yup, the metal's resistance is just lower than plastic-on-plastic. But it works, too, even though I found that using plastic rods as axis for the propeller results in a very tight fit inside of a styrene tube. There are, alternatively, plastic-/vinyl-coated steel wire pieces available that make good propeller axis', too. Just mnake sure both tube and axle are long enough (1" recommended), so that the propeller has only a low margin of side movement when mounted.

utahbob · March 13, 2020, 05:11:39 AM

Zenrat and Dizzyfugu, Thank you so muck for the tub idea! I will be looking through the gribble box this weekend to see if I have a tube with the suitable OD and ID.

Dizzyfugu · March 13, 2020, 05:37:30 AM

Investment in some Evergreen profiles or similar is recommended - also because different diameters match each other.

zenrat · March 13, 2020, 09:32:10 PM

Yes, Evergreen tube is sized so it telescopes into the tube two sizes up.
As they say on their website.

NOTE: ODD NUMBERED SIZES OF ROUND TUBING TELESCOPE INTO THE NEXT ODD NUMBERED SIZE. EVEN NUMBERED SIZES OF ROUND TUBING TELESCOPE INTO NEXT EVEN NUMBERED SIZE.

In other words 223 slides into 225 and 230 fits into 232.
https://evergreenscalemodels.com/collections/14-polysytrene-tubes