Tail sitter correction

[Flitzer]

Hi all
I wondered if the attached may be helpful re: where and how to add weights on tricycle undercarriage models that tend to tail sit.

On securing weights, I found Blutac or other similar product really good, reliable and far less messy than cryo/super glue.
Superglue seems to like fingers better than any other material known to man.


Cheers
Peter

[sequoiaranger]

I overdid one tricycle landing gear model that had a spindly, long nosewheel. I put a whole lot of weight up front, and when the model was finished, the nose gear visibly bent under the strain of the weight up front. Ideally, you want to put just enough weight in the nose so that it doesn't rock back even when the tail is slightly touched.

With solid epoxy models the weight thing becomes problematical, but I have drilled out tunnels and added BB's or lead. Tire balancing weights make a great source (Lead/Antimony--both very dense), and you can often just find them along roadways.

[Geoff]

I managed to do the same with the Su-24 I am doing at the moment. Too much lead shot = many repairs to fwd u/c.

[Mossie]

I've used Blutac before as well & never had a problem, it doesn't seem to shift even in the most disruptive house move.  I've used Milliput as well, it can come unattached, but if you dig a little bit plastic out to give it a grab hold, or cement in bits of sprue like Lee mentioned, you shouldn't have a problem.  On many models, I've found blutac or putty can provide enough nose weight on their own as they're reasonably dense.

I've found whitemetal aftermarket seats & undercarriage often give more than enough weight.  Metal undercarriage is especially useful if you have to use a lot of weight, it's unlikely to bend (although still might if it's very spindely).  Lead is always good (especially in sheet form), if you can find a cheap source, it can be bent, rolled & smacked into shape.  It was easy when I was younger, my Dad used to to mould his own fishing weights & always managed to scrounge some from somewhere.  My needs where small enough that meant I just missed on a clipped ear when I nicked some, didn't stop him moaning about it though!

[Howard of Effingham]

i use plasticine and never have any problems, usually.

if the model has a separate radome. stick pointy end into plastcine. fill with some of ted taylor's [fine chap over
on the britmodeller forum] lead shot making allowances for any join with the nose. then drop in the cyano glue and
leave until dry.

i also try to find the models CoG [center of gravity] if i can whilst nose weighting. this helps avoid tailsitters.


trevor

[who has finally started the scimitar vacform he got from wooksta at SMW 2007. so far so good with this one]