? on squadron sanding stick

Started by bubbalicious, February 24, 2008, 06:43:53 AM

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bubbalicious

For polishing canopies, what order do I use the 3 grit stick? One side has half n half white/black and the other side is all gray.

John Howling Mouse

You can actually feel the different grit/texture with your fingertip.  Start with the nearly black-side which has the "Premium Sanding Stick" text imprinted on it.  Next use the the white part until all obvious scratches from the first grit are gone (the canopy will simply look cloudy to you).  Finish off by actually polishing using the full grey side.  Wash the parts and let dry.  I use Future (Johnson's Klear/Kleer?) as a final touch.

The first time I used this (on a Hasegawa F-16 blown canopy with that terrible mold line right down the center), I was amazed at just how good this works!

P.S. You can buy the same sorts of sanding sticks (even better, 5-way versions) for less money at your local cosmetics counter.
Styrene in my blood and an impressive void in my cranium.

HOG

"P.S. You can buy the same sorts of sanding sticks (even better, 5-way versions) for less money at your local cosmetics counter." quote from Jhm

Even better, go to your local 99p/£1 store or equivalant and buy plant seed labels, double sided tape and assorted wet`n`dry paper and make your own.
Also my local shop sells primer sprays, knife sets, 12 pack tube super glues, oil water colour and acrylic tube paints, etc etc all for around a pound sterling. Now if I could get the manager to sell kits...........................................
H-O-G = Head Out of Gestalt-hands on autopilot
WORK! The curse of the drinking class.
"Guard well your spare moments. They are like uncut diamonds. Discard them and their value will never be known. Improve them and they will become the brightest gems in a useful life."
(Ralph Waldo Emerson )

Hawkeye

Gerald Voigt
http://www.hawkeyeshobbies.com
Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench.

Jeffry Fontaine

Something to remember when the sanding stick has reached a point that it no longer works is that the core of the stick to which the sandpaper is bonded is sometimes made from plastic card that will bond with most plastic cements.  So don't just throw it away when you are done as there is still some use hidden within.  The adhesive used to keep the sandpaper bonded to the stick can be removed with mineral spirits or other products such as this which is designed to remove tape adhesive and glue residue. 
Unaffiliated Independent Subversive
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"Every day we hear about new studies 'revealing' what should have been obvious to sentient beings for generations; 'Research shows wolverines don't like to be teased" -- Jonah Goldberg

Hawkeye

Start with the course first, medium then onto the fine. Generally the back side of the stick contains no grit at all...but it is great way to rub in any polishing compounds. Take care to not use too much pressure with any surface as it will generate too much heat damaging the surface.

Read my link above for more.
Gerald Voigt
http://www.hawkeyeshobbies.com
Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench.

Flitzer

Hi all
As an additional aid to removing scratches, I have used toothpaste in the past.
Not the clear gel type, but the old fashioned white stuff.
It takes a hell of a while but it can work.

Cheers
Peter :blink:
Madness is the normal condition, only interupted by spells of sanity.

NARSES2

Got to confirm the toothpaste trick - yet another oldie that works, unlike me  ;D
Do not condemn the judgement of another because it differs from your own. You may both be wrong.