Wet Sanding

[Eddie M.]

Another thing that works are sanding blocks. They come in different grit and work wonders over most irregular surfaces.

I'm gonna try the Brillo pad too!

[Hobbes]

On a similar note, what range of grits do you all use?

180-280-400 for changing the shape of a piece, 800-1200 for making a smooth surface and 200 for when I need to sand down a layer of paint.

[Deon]

Dry 120 for removing the waste from vacforms  Wet 180 for abaiding mating surfaces wet 1000 -2000 series for finishing

[noxioux]

On a similar note, what range of grits do you all use?

I generally don't go below 2000 grit, and not that fine very often.  For canopies and NMF, I'll go to 2000, and then use automotive polishing compound to finish.

[Mossie]

I tend to wet sand too, like others occasionally using it dry for small touch ups.  I often work in the living or dining room because the missus moans if I 'leave her alone' (the garage is miles away, i.e. on the side of the house!  ) so it's mainly to keep the dust down, but I do generally find it easier to work with when wet.

I usually start with 180 or 240 for reshaping.  I've not often bothered to finish with anything over 600 very often.  That's because it's the finest grit that's available locally (I've sometime made my own grade by rubbing two pieces of the same paper together to get a finer grit) & I paint with a hairy stick so it doesn't show much if I go much finer.

[Dork the kit slayer]

Im a great advocate of "wet" sanding. I was given a good tip many years ago and that was to put a drop of FairyLiquid in the water. Sands easier and doesnt clog your medium.





......................kind on the hands to.

[sotoolslinger]

Yep I almost always wet sand. I also try to use sanding sticks rather than sandpaper .IF I can find them. Nail sanding/polishing files are the shiznit for many applications(yes I get funny looks at the checkout stand) Dirty ripped up nails ,buying 5 different nail sticks at a time . They are especially cool for canopies. YOU CAN ACTUALLY TAKE 1 LAYER OF PAINT OFF WITH THE FINEST GRADES If the paint runs under the tape.

[sequoiaranger]

I was surprised at the volume of "yes" answers. I tried it ONCE decades ago to test out the concept, and didn't see the point (seemed to make no difference to the surface of the material) so I never did it again. I guess if it makes the sanding medium last longer...but sanding mediums are easily replaceable, and I have been using some of the same pieces for twenty years. For the most part, I use FILES for most of my "PSR" work, and only used sanding mediums when it gets down to fine shaping on curves. I probably have some forty files of all shapes and "grit".

As someone said, there is no "wrong" answer, just different styles.

Good "educational" topic! 

[Andrew Gorman]

I like 60 grit resin bond sandpaper on a piece of glass for major modification works fast and relatively neatly.  I keep thinking I should save they styrene sludge for something.  It dries out into dust.  A "Pink Pearl" eraser is my favorite sanding block.
Wet sanding keeps the sandpaper from loading up with crud, and keeps it cutting better through the whole process.

[Eddie M.]

I'm about to find out about wet sanding a canopy. I had a seam in the one I've got for my F-15 and thought I sanded it well enough, but the Future doesn't hide it, so hopefully I'll get it right this time around.....

[frank2056]

I'm about to find out about wet sanding a canopy. I had a seam in the one I've got for my F-15 and thought I sanded it well enough, but the Future doesn't hide it, so hopefully I'll get it right this time around.....

Remember that clear styrene is less...well, plastic than regular styrene, so if you get carried away you'll end up with stress marks inside the plastic or even have the canopy break. be careful sanding, and use a support inside the canopy to minimize the stress n the plastic. I'll use a finger from behind the spot I'm sanding, or some modeling clay or blu-tac on the inside. Even then you can end up with stress fractures.