pre-shading armor models

[Research]

I am new to what-if and an avid AFV modeler, predominantly WWII stuff. My weathering techniques are not the greatest and I have been hearing about this PRE-SHADING. Anybody know the mechanics of it? Also, my washes suck too. Most of my finished stuff looks like it just rolled out of the factory. I drool over well-weathered armor models, but don't seem to have the talent to get good results every time. So so at best!

Ray

[noxioux]

I don't know about pre-shading--it's not something I use in building--but I think the trick to weathering is dirt.  Dirty washes, dirty paints.  Think: Mess.  Think: dings, scratches, dents.

I think you just have to cut loose, and when you think you're over-doing it, that's where you want to be.

[grayman]

Ray, I am certainly no expert, but here goes...

Both aim to give depth to the model, by emphasising deep, shadowed parts and (through dry brushing and use of progressively lighter colour variations) "pop" out elements that stand proud.

Preshading aims to darken panel lines and shadowed areas. Basically it is a dark undercolour beneath an almost opaque top coat. In my inexperience, it is easy to overdo the top coats, eliminating the effect. Advanced modellers also use progressively lighter colours towards the centre or a panel. So nooks and crannies are dark and get progressively lighter towards the center of the plane or object.

Where I set out to preshade, I usually prime the model, either in silver or gun-metal or plain vanilla car primer.

For example, engine grills could start out with a black or dark gray, be overcoated with the top colour and then dry-brushed with a lighter variation of the top colour or perhaps some complimentary colour. Be sure to wander around the web (for example, Swanny's Models, Aircraft Resource Center, Finescale Modeller, and especially Armorama), as there are references and tips tucked away in FAQ sections and forum boards such as these. I'm also sure that some of the more skilled hands here (of whom I am in awe at their prowess  ) may have some tips as well.

The above applies to washes as well, but here are some more thoughts. A wash is a diluted paint pigment, again with the purpose of darkening recesses and is normally complimented by dry brushing. A trick with washes this to differentiate between the colour coat and wash types. For example, if you've used acrylic paint for the top coat, the normal suggestion is to use enamels or oils thinned appropriately as a wash. And vice versa (enamel colour coat, use an acrylic-based wash). In my experience trial and (for me, lots!) of error is the order of the day. There also "out of the bottle" washes available from MIG productions and Lifecolour. It is always a good idea to clear-coat your model before washing - it protects the colour coat and gives the opportunity to correct any slips or mistakes.

For dusting things up I can recommend artists pastels (not the crayon type). These can be ground up and "dusted" on to the model to give an appropriately dusty look. For scratches, graphite pencils can give neat effects (especially on work track surfaces).

Hope this is the kind of info you are seeking.

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Here are a couple of links that might be of assistance/interest:
IMPS Stockholm article http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2001/01/stuff_eng_tech_panel_lines.htm
Missing Lynx article http://www.missing-lynx.com/rare_world/rw04.htm