RNZAF Eagle NZ8003

[PolluxDeltaSeven]

Hello everybody! I'm back from Paris where I bought some clear decal film to do my own decals!! It's seams that I could finally do a Kiwi Mirage 2000 or Gripen one of those days


And thanks Richard! Indeed, I try to learn fast, but a lot of people help me for that, you Gekko, but also Alanqua (the guy who published some Mirage 4000 profiles on a french magazine) and my best girl friend who's studying arts at Paris' Gobelin School...
I thank you all for all your help and of course Zac for all his ideas and support !!

I have a lot of work those days at the university, but I will soon draw another TSR.2 I think, but I think without all the long modifications I plan sometimes ago like weapons pylons etc... It will be for the third one

[K5054NZ]

Looking forward to it, Yannick! Great stuff.

And Richard, check your inbox   .

[K5054NZ]

Richard, when will you reply?


Right, now that I have 3.75 TSR.2s in my collection I will get to work on them today - SimonR, your kit has had some pour plugs removed, but until I can gain access to a respirator mask and outside open air, I'll have to put that one aside for now.

One quick question - is it essential to use CA to glue resin? Or will Revell Contacta suffice?

[Ollie]

You have to use CA Zac boy.

 

[Ollie]

And I suggest you use gel CA, much more easier to work with.

^_^  

[K5054NZ]

I just got "Hot Stuff" CA, hopefully it works okay.

[Spellbinder99]

Zac, you really need to approach a large resin kit with caution, expecially one you have limited chances to mess up. Not that I am saying you will, but it pays to take caution to ensure a better result with less filling and fixing.

In the case of major resin fuselage sections as seen in the Heritage kit and recast versions, you should go with a two part epoxy or gel style superglue so that you have time to align parts and get them as close to each other as possible before they set. This will lessen the amount of filling required.
If you use an instant style superglue it is far too easy to join parts out of alignment.

Consider drilling holes and gluing in brass alignment pins for smaller parts and spend a lot of time fettling the parts and dry fitting them before adding the first drop of glue. The need to add the wingtips from another casting is a classic example of joints that may need internal reinforcement. Lee has done dozens of these kits so I daresay he knows where to trim and grind the parts in his sleep, but new operators need caution.

Sit down with the parts and work out any extra detailing to add before you start, so that you arent trying to drill or grind away at bits that have allready been glued together.

That Lees castings can be made into a fine TSR.2 is not in dispute, what you do with the raw materials is up to you. As to Hot Stuff hopefuly being ok, why not test it out on some waste material like sawn off pour stubs and make sure how long you have to align parts and how easy it is to reposition them.

Cheers

Tony

[K5054NZ]

Thanks Tony. Well said, I shall definitely heed your words. I like dry-fitting anyway, shall try the waste resin first, and search out gel CA.

Thanks again.

[K5054NZ]

I;ve posted the backstory on FSM, ARC and MM. I will DEFINITELY do it on Hyperscale as well, but I forgot my password. I'll provide links when the constructive criticism rolls in   .

[KiwiZac]

BUMP..............


y'all thought I'd gone off the old girl, hadn't ya? Hehehe......RNZAF Eagle #2 is on the way....


still looking for those lo-viz RNZAF markings as well, so speak up if you havge any