avatar_overscan

1/72 P.1121 model available

Started by overscan, December 05, 2009, 12:54:21 PM

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overscan

http://www.shapeways.com/model/71021/1121_print.html

This computer 3D model was made by Rob Parthoens (Baroba) from original Hawker drawings in order to create illustrations for my P.1121 book. It is now possible to get a real model made directly from the computer model in a variety of different materials including stainless steel (if you are feeling flush with money).

I'll post photos of a finished model once Rob gets his delivered.
Paul Martell-Mead / Overscan
"What if?" addict

Hobbes

So this model would be produced using a CNC mill?

overscan

Yes, a 3d printer. I'm not familiar with the technology, but I'll probably get one made for me to go in my study. Then I just need a study  ;D
Paul Martell-Mead / Overscan
"What if?" addict

GTX

How well detailed is it - is it able to be scaled up to 1/48?  Be interested to see about doing one through a 3D printer.

regards,

Greg
All hail the God of Frustration!!!

rickshaw

I've been investigating the possibility of using 3d printing now for about six months.  Teaching myself 3d modelling has been part of the process.  If your friend can create a closed 3d model, it can be fed into a 3d printer.  Prices are quite reasonable - usually about $US1.50 per cc of material.   Obviously the larger the scale, the more material required.
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TsrJoe

we've got a 3D printer here in the studio, im not sure how large it would be for transfer but do you have the file in a DXF format?

cheers, Joe
... 'i reject your reality and substitute my own !'

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frank2056

#6
I've used Shapeways quite a bit. They have a variety of 3D printers and the part cost is based on the material and the volume.

Their cheapest material "white (or some other color) strong and flexible" is made by sintering small plastic particles together (SLS process). The finish is rough (it'll look like 600-800 grit sandpaper) and the roughness cannot be sanded out. Sanding just reveals another layer of fine particles. One way to deal with this material is to make a mold of the original and cast it in resin (make sure to put lots of mold release on the master or it may stick to the mold), then work on the resin master. Another way is to coat the original in many, many layers of primer (the material will absorb quite a bit) then sand the surfaces smooth. While in theory, the printer's resolution is 0.1mm, in practice that level of detail will disappear in the surface roughness.

The "Transparent detail" (and similar materials) are more expensive and use fused deposition modeling (FDM) to build up layers of an acrylic material. This plastic can be polished to remove most of the printing artifacts (lines and the like).

Just about any material will have a fair amount of printing artifacts - raster lines from the process - which are far more pronounced in curved parts than flat parts.

Overscan - did Rob actually get the part printed by Shapeways? They limit the design specs to well above what the machines can produce - this guarantees that most projects will print in one pass. The negative is that they impose pretty strict thickness limits on their parts - an absolute minimum of 1mm for everything, more if possible.

Their upload check just does basic watertight and surface tests on the model. It can take a day or two for a live person to accept or reject a model for production.

Here's a part I designed as a scout bay replacement for the Leif Ericson/UFO Mystery ship kit:

In white strong and flexible


In Transparent Detail

And

A hideous closeup of the White strong & flexible with a coat of Mr. Surfacer



Frank

frank2056

Quote from: rickshaw on December 06, 2009, 04:47:19 AM
I've been investigating the possibility of using 3d printing now for about six months.  Teaching myself 3d modelling has been part of the process. 

That's what I've been doing. If you look at it as an education, the price (software & time and less than perfect prints) isn't too bad. From a modeling standpoint, it's just another form of scratchbuilding and the resulting model will still need a lot of work to be presentable.

lancer

Silly question time - What medium will the final product be? I built the Whirlybirds one a few years ago and it'd be nice to see it in something other then vacform
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If you go into battle knowing you will die, then you will live. If you go into battle hoping to live, then you will die

frank2056

Quote from: lancer on December 07, 2009, 02:28:12 PM
Silly question time - What medium will the final product be? I built the Whirlybirds one a few years ago and it'd be nice to see it in something other then vacform

If it's from Shapeways, only in the materials they offer: http://www.shapeways.com/materials/

overscan

Interesting feedback. Seems 3d printing has a way to go yet.
Paul Martell-Mead / Overscan
"What if?" addict

elmayerle

I used SLS for some prototype parts while I was on the F-35 (had to send out for it) as it was rather cheaper than Stereolithography, though both used the same files.  I agree on the surface finish, but it does give a starting point for modelling.
"Reality is the leading cause of stress amongst those in touch with it."
--Jane Wagner and Lily Tomlin

frank2056

The SLS process is great for making a basic shape, casting a copy in resin and detailing the copy. The SLS master can be smoothed before casting, or you can save on some time and frustration and smooth the easier to work with resin copy.