avatar_nighthunter

How to Mask?

Started by nighthunter, February 27, 2013, 08:37:33 PM

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nighthunter

Okay, so I want to do a two tone scheme on a 1/25 '32 Ford Highboy using spray paint, but I don't know which color should go first, and if I should prime the plastic first or just go with the two colors. The colors are Silver and Gloss Black, I plan on Gloss Black over Silver. What materials should I use, I have access to standard masking tape, and somewhere we have model masking tape. HELP!
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Father Ennis

Well my friend, this is simple. You should always apply the lightest color first. In this case,silver. Then you use progressly darker. But with only two colors that would be black (normally the very last).  The trick to masking is BE SURE YOUR BASE COLOR(S) ARE WELL AND THOUGHLY CURED !!!!!! I've known car modelers who wouldn't touch the painted model for at least a week. A trick one guy uses is he puts the car in a shoe box to insure that dust (or cat hairs) don't.setting on the curing model. I've always felt this a wise idea.  As for the masking, you can get various low tack tapes to use,like your modeler's tape. You can use regular masking tape ,too,but stick it to your jeans first to get off most of the tack. Be sure to cut a clean edge to the tape .  I use a sheet of glass and a new Sharp #11 blade. Also use a metal straight edge or French curve . Since you didn't say what you were masking that about covers it.  BTW, even lettering the paint dry for a week may not keep it from pulling it up again. Surface prep before painting is mandatory. A good clean dry surface is a must. If you are painting a flame job, use several strips together to get your size right and make a pattern before you cut to get both sides the same. (I got a flame mask set to use for this, Testors,I think) 

nighthunter

Thanks Ennis, as to flames, I'd do those freehand brushing over masking and spraying, lol.
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Go4fun

Also to be remembered, when pulling the tape off pull it at an sharp angle to the edge the tape is layed along away from the fresh paint. This helps prevent fuzzy or 'chipped' edges on your paint.
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The Wooksta!

I've always worked the other way round - darkest first with the lightest last.  It's easier to touch up a darker colour if need be than a lighter one.  Really depends on the paint you're using though.

But ALWAYS use a primer coat. Shows up any flaws and areas that need remedial sanding.
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Dizzyfugu

First tip: be patient. Second tip, esp. when you are not very familiar with spray paint: make a trial object. I'd also recommend this due to the fact that you want to use silver - metallic paints can be pretty touchy and prone to dissolve under some fresh paint, esp. oil-based paints like enamels. Acryllics are less hazardous.

As a side note: many metallic spray paints - unless they are intentionally marketed for model kits - have relatively large mica pigments. On a model, this can look pretty "rough"!

As for masking, modeling tape (e .g. from Tamiya) is good, but also check for vinyl masking tape. These are more elastic and allow groovy lines, which you might want for flame outlines. Anyway, befor you touch any fresh paint, leave the object to dry in a safe and dust-free place for IMHO at least 48 hours.

Primer coat before real painting is also a must, for an even surface. Esp on black you see every notch and dirt of grain!

Finally, a coat with clear varnish is recommended - or even better: two thin coats, with thorough drying between the coats. This adds much to "depth" and glossy finish of a car model.

Painting cars (well) takes time - I would not wonder if it takes more than a week to get your model done!