Putty drying times

[NARSES2]

Now from reading some of the build threads it's fairly obvious that others don't allow the same drying period as I do (over cautious by nature) between psr sessions.

So I was wondering how long others leave between application and sanding for the major brands of putty ? Never to old to learn 

For intermediate/major work I currently have/use : Green stuff, Humbrol, Revell and Tamiya.

[rickshaw]

For large jobs I still use Milliput and allow 24 hours.  For small jobs I use either Vallejo or Perfect Putty and allow invariably 24 hours as well (apply before bed, get back to it at about the same time, the next evening).

[PR19_Kit]

After learning a 2.5 year old lesson while building my 777-900 I don't mix putty brands on the same model any more. On the 777 I used all sorts, layer upon layer and the result was an eruption of bumps and pits all over every area where I'd used them.

Now I'm a died-in-the-wool Presto user, the same stuff that Dizzy uses. It dries pretty fast, I can start PSR after lunch if I apply a layer of Presto just after breakfast, but it works best if left for 24 hrs I find, although it's harder to sand then.

Now and then I still use Pollyfiller Fine Finish straight from the tub if there's only a skim of filler needed, Presto isn't too good in very thin layers I find, but most of my models need LOTS more than that!  

[zenrat]

I use Tamiya Polyester Putty and leave it overnight as a minimum.

[Dizzyfugu]

As Kit mentioned, I use most of the time the Presto nitrous compound putty - similar to Revell's Plasto stuff, but IMHO easier to apply and more uniform. Thin layers dry rather quickly, given there is much surface for the thinner to evaporate. Thin surface work can be wet sanded within two hours, dry sanding can take longer - it also depends on the material below, if it becomes softened and bonds with the putty. Massive/thick layers of 2mm or more are possble, but take considerably longer - I leave them typically to dry over night or try to work in several thinner layers, as thick layers tend to shrink.

I also use 2C putty, either the Tamiya stuff when I need a very fine finish, or a repair compound from German Brand UHU that is actually marketed as a kind of glue or "repair chewing gum". The structure is not very fine, the stuff can be grainy at times, but for rough structural work it is fine and dries up in an hour - so far that it can be cut with a knife or wet-sanded. I frequently apply a final coat of Pretso, though, also in order to blend the edges and achieve an even surface. The Tamiya 2C putty takes much longer to cure, esp. the variant with a long "open" time. Leaving it to dry/cure over night is recommended.

[FAR148]

The only putty I use is super glue and baby powder. Been using it for years now and never had any problems with it.  Gel type super glue and plain johnson & johnson baby powder. I can mix it to any thickness I like or need. It does not shrink, does not leak out chemicals, sands and feathers out beautifully. I can scribe panel lines in it. Easy to mix up and use. I pour out some baby powder on a piece of cardboard and add in the super glue to whatever thickness I need. With a bamboo skewer, mix and apply. Sets up in minutes. Once cured, you can start sanding and shaping.











Steven L  

[NARSES2]

I've used super glue and talc for small jobs before, but not large ones. Interesting 

[Rick Lowe]

I also use the SG/Talc and the thing I like the most is that it dries 'super glue fast', but due to the filler doesn't dry 'super glue hard' - i.e. you don't have to work it within the 'magic half hour' of application as with the straight glue.

I like the plumber's epoxy we get here, for basic shapes - it also dries quickly, but can be roughly trimmed after about 5 mins, then left to finish hardening.

Cheers