avatar_seadude

D.A.R.P.A. XST Competition diorama.

Started by seadude, October 03, 2015, 08:17:30 PM

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seadude

Posts 99 to 101 here:
http://www.whatifmodelers.com/index.php/topic,40258.90.html

I am finishing up on a small diorama showcasing the early development of the F-117 stealth fighter. Since stealth is all about trying to avoid radar detection, I thought it would be neat to showcase the models on a radar screen type base. I found a radar screen decal (18 inch diameter) on Amazon. That might seem too big, but I had to consider table constraints and model sizes when going to future contests. So all models are 1/144 scale.
The decal was applied (After 5 times and much headaches to get it flat and no air bubbles underneath.) to a flourescent green acrylic disc that is 19 inches in diameter and 1/8th inch thick that I also bought on Amazon.
The pictures below kinda speak for themselves. I'll have 1-2 paper notes next to the diorama to explain the history as well as the models.
I'd like to have some sort of light underneath the acrylic disc to somehow "light up" the radar screen as shown in the last two pics. But I only want to light up where the green "sweeping" line is, not the whole map. And I can't have whatever light source I use too close to the disc either as shown in the very last pic or it will look bad. Anybody got any suggestions?

















Modeling isn't just about how good the gluing or painting, etc. looks. It's also about how creative and imaginative you can be with a subject.
My modeling philosophy is: Don't build what everyone else has done. Build instead what nobody has seen or done before.

Hobbes

#1
You can use transparent acrylic plate (aka plexiglass or perspex) to spread the light from a point source. This is called an edge-lit display.
Here's an example of an edge-lit display that's been engraved. You can see the light exits the plate mostly at the edges and the engraved sites.

Insert this plate below the acrylic disc.

In this case, you'll need to cut a circle segment from transparent acrylic plate, make it the size of the segment you want to light up. This is the large pie shape in the drawing.

At the sharp point of the pie shape, drill a cavity where you can insert a LED.
You'll want to cover the space around the cavity with something opaque (paint or paper) so the LED is not visible from the outside.




Captain Canada

I was going to suggest some smoke coloured or tinted plastic sheet. I know I've seen some before just can't recall.

CANADA KICKS arse !!!!

Long Live the Commonwealth !!!
Vive les Canadiens !
Where's my beer ?

seadude

Hobbes, no offense, but can you explain your solution better and/or provide a better drawing. I don't understand what you mean.  :unsure:
Modeling isn't just about how good the gluing or painting, etc. looks. It's also about how creative and imaginative you can be with a subject.
My modeling philosophy is: Don't build what everyone else has done. Build instead what nobody has seen or done before.

Hobbes

I've edited my description, is this better?

Nick

Have you considered strip LED lights under a tinted cover to reduce the brightness?

You can get variable brightness or soft white LEDs too. http://www.maplin.co.uk/c/components/leds-and-displays/led-strips

sandiego89

Dave "Sandiego89"
Chesapeake, Virginia, USA

seadude

Quote from: Nick on October 07, 2015, 12:58:46 AM
Have you considered strip LED lights under a tinted cover to reduce the brightness?

You can get variable brightness or soft white LEDs too. http://www.maplin.co.uk/c/components/leds-and-displays/led-strips

Yeah, I've thought about that too. I'm thinking about every option I can get my hands on and then some to make this diorama work.  :banghead:  I do have a small pocket flashlight that has a small strip of 6 LED's in a row on it. If I were to put it underneath the display at the right distance/height from where the sweeping radar line is, then it might work as a temporary solution. Remember, on a real radar screen, it's mostly the sweeping radar line that gets lit up the most as it passes around the screen. I'd love to do a real sweeping radar line effect where it goes around the whole circumference of the diorama, but I don't know a hill of beans when it comes to doing electrical work.  :banghead:
Modeling isn't just about how good the gluing or painting, etc. looks. It's also about how creative and imaginative you can be with a subject.
My modeling philosophy is: Don't build what everyone else has done. Build instead what nobody has seen or done before.

KiwiZac

I can't help except to say "ooooo that is COOL!".
Zac in NZ
#avgeek, modelbuilder, photographer, writer. Callsign: "HANDBAG"
https://linktr.ee/zacyates

Tophe

[the word "realistic" hurts my heart...]

seadude

Forgot to mention that people who buy and build the Anigrand 1/144 Lockheed Hopeless Diamond, Northrop XST, and/or the Lockheed Have Blue, may want to read Post #'s 26 and 27 here:
http://www.whatifmodelers.com/index.php/topic,41251.15.html
Modeling isn't just about how good the gluing or painting, etc. looks. It's also about how creative and imaginative you can be with a subject.
My modeling philosophy is: Don't build what everyone else has done. Build instead what nobody has seen or done before.

seadude

Final pics of the display..........unless I somehow am able to put lights underneath to light up the radar screen? I still haven't figured that out yet. But anyway, took it to a model contest yesterday and got a 3rd Place Bronze award.



Modeling isn't just about how good the gluing or painting, etc. looks. It's also about how creative and imaginative you can be with a subject.
My modeling philosophy is: Don't build what everyone else has done. Build instead what nobody has seen or done before.

Tophe

Congratulations! (and we give you the gold medal instead) :thumbsup:
[the word "realistic" hurts my heart...]