avatar_killnoizer

Help please, dry paint / aging

Started by killnoizer, April 02, 2023, 04:03:38 AM

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killnoizer

This is my latest project , I put a over all washing on it to darken the white lines , and after that it is complete coated with clear mat spray from MARABU .   

The last three months I have tried a lot of aging , but the results are very different,  if someone would have the pleasure to give me some advice what could be possible with this thing ( and where to put it on )  .  Mostly muse black or brown to drypaint some parts , also a very nice silver for edges is in my collection .
I think about using some light color, grey or white , to highlight some corners or something. That bird doesn't need too much aging I think , just a bit to make it more ,,living ,,  .   

I have a big collection of VALEJO ACRYLICS and a lot of REVELL ENAMEL. And I work with brushes only . 

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It's a Land Rover, NOT a Jeep . Like a Jeep, but for gentlemen.

https://www.spacejunks.com/

Vulcan7

I am no expert, but I use cotton buds lightly dipped in paint to apply weathering on a model. It can give a more subtle/softer application of paint than a brush :thumbsup:
"My grandad fought in WW1 and used to make Mosquito wings in WW2"

killnoizer

Yes, I am also use them , sometimes. There are different ways to apply  paint, or to remove it with water and sticks ... 
I don't like it that the Color for dry paint dry so fast.  There is so much of it for garbage only .

Any recommendations for another trick ?  Just watched a video for that on YouTube, the guy needs 10 minutes for showing all his bottles of stuff, worth around 200€ I think, before he touched a brush .
It's a Land Rover, NOT a Jeep . Like a Jeep, but for gentlemen.

https://www.spacejunks.com/

Steel Penguin

possibly drybrushing to add highlights / light streaking,  if you want chipping  possibly using a piece of torn sponge with a small amount of metallic paint on it.   
the things you learn, give your mind the wings to fly, and the chains to hold yourself steady
take off and nuke the site form orbit, nope, time for the real thing, CAM and gridfire, call special circumstances. 
wow, its like freefalling into the Geofront
Not a member of the Hufflepuff conspiracy!

Weaver

#4
There's different kinds of weathering on a plane. You don't just dirty it up, you have to think about what happens and why.

Paint on the leading edges of the wing, the nose and the engine intakes will flake off due to high-speed dust impacts, leaving the underlying material colour visible. Simulate this by dry-brushing the airframe colour lightly in the direction of the air flow. DO YOUR RESEARCH: find out what the underlying material is: scratches on painted aluminium will be silver(ish), scratches on a fibreglass radome will be a dirty yellow colour (if it's painted rather than self-coloured), scratches on painted carbon-fibre will be black.

Exhaust pipes and gun muzzles vent gas that stains the surface behind them. Dry brush with black or a mix of black and dark brown.

The route that the crew use to board the aircraft will get dirty and scuffed up: mixture of scratches (underlying material colour) and dirt (black/brown). Note that these do NOT follow the direction of the airflow.

Frequently opened panels, like engine inspection doors and ammo box hatches will be more scratched around the edges and have more dirt near them.

If the aircraft's operating from a grass field, the tires will get muddly and throw mud up onto the airframe behind them. If it's a gravel strip, then the tires will be dusty and the airframe damage will be chipping from small stones.

Oil leaks from engine cowling and access doors. It goes downwards when it's inside the aircraft, finding the lowest point, then streaks backwards in the airflow. Medium brown paint is good for oil.

An aircraft that's been in combat for a while may have patches and repairs. You can paint an actual patch on the surface using a slightly darker shade of the colour around it (because it's fresh paint and hasn't faded yet). Another approach that I like is to imply that a control surface has been replaced by painting it in the base colour, as if that's how it comes from the factory, but not extending the cammo scheme over it, as if the squadron techs haven't got time to spare for cosmetics. You also sometimes see unpainted (i.e. dirty yellow) radomes and dielectric panels on hastily repaired aircraft.

In all cases, start with a little weathering, then add more in stages but DON'T get carried away: it's easy to put more on but it's a lot harder to take it off again.

If your model is based on, or similar to, a real plane, then do some research on the internet to find photos of the plane in service. 'Walk around' videos and photo sets can be good, but they're often of an immaculate museum example. Not always though, so still check them out.
"Things need not have happened to be true. Tales and dreams are the shadow-truths that will endure when mere facts are dust and ashes, and forgot."
 - Sandman: A Midsummer Night's Dream, by Neil Gaiman

"I dunno, I'm making this up as I go."
 - Indiana Jones

PR19_Kit

I once saw a well weathered model of a Mosquito, with chipped leading edges showing aluminium through the chips.....................  :banghead:
Kit's Rule 1 ) Any aircraft can be improved by fitting longer wings, and/or a longer fuselage
Kit's Rule 2) The backstory can always be changed to suit the model

...and I'm not a closeted 'Take That' fan, I'm a REAL fan! :)

Regards
Kit