Painting a straight line on a half-sphere

[Tophe]

See this awful detail on my YF-16 :

My new model, TL-I//, the first since the 1990s, is almost finished, but... I would like to paint the metal part in the canopy ("montant" in French, "upright" in English?), and I have never been good at that.
Well, first I just used a brush, trying to move as straight as possible, and hoping that no piece of hair would change direction or let a drop run out of the line... This gave bad results as on this YF-16. Then I asked my model-seller (a very very nice Vietnamese young man, nick-named Fifi) how to improve, and he explained me that he was using a covering liquid that was protecting clear parts after drying, not to be painted on, and when the paint is dry, just remove that film – well, the problem appeared to be exactly the same for my unskilful hands: putting this liquid on with a brush, I just tried to move as straight as possible, hoping no piece of hair... Then I invented my way: putting adhesive tape on the clear parts, pressing it all along, then painting with paint almost not-liquid (bottom part of the can, moved up with a piece of plastic), it works for several models. But now that I have met so many modellers, doing so much wonderful things, could you reveal me how you do?
BUT, I must mention that my problem is not saving clear aspect of the canopy (as I paint canopies black now), it is just to draw a clean straight line on a curved canopy (BMW TL-III of Unicraft Models)... Before trying by my old way, would you have advice to do better?

I try to post my question here, as nobody answered on the workbench forum , with my YF-16. If the answer is a secret to be kept by each skilful modeller , I respect that , but may someone tell me I will get no answer...? ^_^  

[Alvis 3.1]

Sorry I didn't see it on the other forum old chap! Here's how I do it...I use Bare Metal Foil, a self adhesive metal foil mostly used to make models look metal. I rub it down (called burnishing) onto the canopy, then VERY carefull cut away with a very very sharp Exacto blade all the frame lines, leaving the clear parts masked off.
Or else, I actually lightly score along the panel lines with a very very sharp blade and cause a raised line. I then hand paint the frame lines. I do this when I am lazy or just can't find any foil. It does run the risk of accidentally ruining the clear parts tho! I don't really recommend it to anyone!!! (THREE exclamations...oh my!)


hope this is of assisitance


Alvis 3.1

[Captain Canada]

I do the same thing as Senor Petrie, only I use Parafilm M.......it's  aclear waxy paper stuff, same idea as the foil, rub it on. Only it's clear and easier to see where to cut. Slap on some paint, let it dry, and peel the stuff off !

 

[Tophe]

Thanks a lot, both of you  I am going to very very try... sharply.  

[nev]

btw, if you overpaint on a canopy, you can use a sharpened toothpick to scrape it off without damaging the clear plastic.

And I think the word you were looking for is canopy "framing"

And we all have canopy disasters from time to time    

[Leigh]

I hate masking canopies, I make Fairey's and I hate masking canopies, I am insane, and I hate masking canopies.

Wot the others said and make sure you dip the canopy in Future/ Kleer floor wax first, sometimes I dip, let cure for a coupla days and dip again. Apart from making the plastic super shiny and thinner looking it will provide a barrier between the plastic and the paint. When the canopy disaster happens and it will happen if the toothpick alone doesnt get the paint of a toothpick dipped in mineral/white spirits will dissolve oil paint off.
Acrylics same trick 'cept use alcohol this may well take off the future too or leave it cloudy looking, no worries just brush some more on. I've found whenever I brush more future on a canopy it bonds with the layer underneath making it a cloudy mess don't worry it WILL dry super CLEAR.

[Tophe]

Thanks a lot for these extra details and... for the psychological assistance, sharing   the disaster feeling. I feel less alone  

[lancer]

Masking canopies has to be one of the things I hate most. I use the same method as Alvis and Toadmad, but I use Tamiya masking tape indtead. The other method I use, especially with finely framed canopies is to cut a thin strip of tape and lay next to the canopy frame Once the frame's been outlined, I use liquid mask to fill in the cleear parts. It tends to work reasonably well.

[Tophe]

Thanks again . Well, this is done, I have tried... I will have (after drying) the surprise tomorrow, removing the tape: clean or awful...      

[Tophe]

I will have (after drying) the surprise tomorrow, removing the tape: clean or awful...    

An the result is... plain full success! Thanks!
(but no digital camera for still one week...)