Ta 152D-2, the what-if that almost really existed

[NARSES2]

On the subject of Finnish 152's, I've built a post war Finnish Fw 190D and ANR 109D, the latter in the three colour splinter scheme. Love to see an ANR 152 done by the Master 

[matrixone]

Thanks again guys!

Fran,
Yes I am well aware of the Fw 190D-13 ''yellow 10'' and even have the Eduard D-11/D-13 double kit but I don't ever plan to model it, I try to avoid doing models of aircraft that have already been done to death by other modelers. Instead of building a model of ''yellow 10'' it would be more interesting to build a fictional Fw 190D-13 with markings similar to ''yellow 10''...something like that might get the JMN types wondering if its real world or what-if.
In my collection of built models I have a blend of late war and what-if, its hard to tell where the real world ends and the what-if begins.

Matrixone

[Weaver]

Lovely job Matrixone - well done! 

[Allan]

Hi Matrix
I think I've said this before, in fact I'm sure I have, but that wavy paint line on the 152 wing leading edge is just so deft and wonderful that if you had done something like that in the 1600s you've had been propped against a stake and burned to death for witchcraft.
Just for the benefit of the rest of us hamfisted amateurs who are gawking (finally! found an opportunity to use that word!) in thunderstruck awe at your prowess, I wonder if you could explain in words of not more that two syllables how on earth you do the wavy line? Is is perhaps masked or done freehand?--if the lattter I might as well reach for my modelling knife right now and slit my veins to bleed piteously over the modelling desk because there is no way I can replicate that sort of work.
So, my dear Matrix (as Dr Watson might have pleaded with you), DO let us into the secret.
I'll even put a check in the mail if you discretely ask for one.....
In awe,
Allan

[matrixone]

Thanks again Allan!

Most of the painting on this model was done free handed, the only places masked were the places where I needed to have a sharp line.
I free handed the wavy demarcation line on the leading edges of the wings. This was done by drawing a wavy thin line with the airbrush on the leading edge and then slowly filling in areas that needed the darker uppersurface colors.
Your Iwata is capable doing the same thing if you do the following:

1. thin your paints at least 60% thinner 40% paint ratio (maybe even more than that!)

2. dial back the P.S.I. on your guage down to at least 5 (this is ultra important)

3. get an old model or model part and do a test spray to see how your paint will look on the model...if the paint spreads and starts to spider that means you still have too high of P.S.I. and you need to lower it even more.
If your paint looks spattered or grainy your paint might be too thick. Don't do your test sprays on a paper towel or rag, it will not look the same as it will on the model.

4. take off the end cap on your airbrush...this will allow you to hold the airbrush very close to the surface without the air bouncing off the surface of the model and disrupting the spray pattern, when painting very small details I often end up holding the airbrush needle about an inch away from the surface.

5. always start the air on the airbrush first and then slowly pull back on the trigger to get the paint to flow...do the reverse when you stop...paint off and then air off, don't just let up off the trigger because if you do you will get a small burst of paint on your next pressing of the trigger even if you don't pull back to get the paint to start flowing.

6. when using low P.S.I. be prepared to have to stop painting and wipe off the end of the needle, paint will sometimes collect on the tip...I keep a stiff paint brush and thinner nearby to wipe off any paint build up, a paint brush removes the paint build up without risk of damaging the needle tip. I have seen T-shirt airbrush artists use their fingernails to remove paint build up on the needle tips but to me that is just asking for trouble!

7. practice, practice, and then do more practice...thats how I learned, I know its boring but there is no way around that.

HTH

Matrixone

[dumaniac]

Allan

I agree with Matrixone on many things - winding the air down to 5 psi is good for thin lines and I agree with the thin paint - and I have an old toothbrush soaked in thinners to keep the nozzle clear because the paint does accumulate - i use Modelmaster enamels but I think Matix uses acrylics?

BUt despite knowing and doing similar to Matrixone, mine don't look anywhere as good - I am in the club-fisted half blind old man amateur brigade

Good luck with the Matrixone techniques - I know the 5 psi sounds crazy but it works

I purchased an MAC (Micro air control) air brush offa ebay - wind the chin control back as well for great air control - got mine for about A$45 a couple of year ago - now I want to sell my Aztec airbrush which i paid A$180 - not worth two bob in comparison (just my opinion - it is probably a great airbrush in skilled hands) - don't tell the trouble-and-strife

Bernie

[Army of One]

Matrixone........masterclass...... nuff said....!!'

[Rheged]

I've said it before about this gentleman's work, but it deserves saying again.  The modelling is excellent and the photography is so  incredibly  magnificent that I suspect  witchcraft................all I can say is "Keep up the necromancy....PLEASE!"

[matrixone]

Thanks to all for the more than kind words, I am humbled.

Bernie,
I use enamels, acrylics I avoid if I can.

About those paint/thinner ratios...60/40 is only a starting point, I suspect its actually closer to 70/30 for most detail painting, I can't say for sure since I don't measure any of them, if it looks right it is right.
The P.S.I. is usually set at 5 or under, actually in some cases I set it close to 0. The airbrush is a gravity feed and with the highly thinned paint it takes hardly any air to atomize the paint. Below is a 1/144 scale Me 262 that was painted with the P.S.I. guage set close to 0, when I would press the trigger on the airbrush the guage would actually read dead flat but it was still enough air pressure to spray the mottling on the fuselage without paint spatters.


For those that don't have a regulator that goes down to very low P.S.I. settings there is a way around that...slightly loosen the air hose fitting where it connects to the compressor and allow a tiny bit of air to bleed off. It sounds crude but it works very well. Before I bought my Iwata air compressor two years ago my other air compressor that I had been using for almost 25 years had no P.S.I. guage...I made all air pressure adjustments by loosening the air hose/compressor connection.

Matrixone