avatar_BlackOps

Mr. Surfacer question

Started by BlackOps, March 15, 2008, 05:26:34 PM

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BlackOps

I've heard lots of praise for Mr. Surfacer for filling small gaps and such and have a few questions for those of you who use it.

First off, if you brush it on what do you use to clean the brush? or do you use disposable brushes? 

Does it have any adverse reactions to acrylic paint?

Trying to dial in my building skills a bit and PSR is not my favorite thing. I've noticed my seams could be a bit cleaner on almost all of my builds.
Jeff G.
Stumbling through life.

Ed S

Great stuff that Mr Surfacer.  It thins well with lacquer thinner.  Which also works well to clean the brush after you paint it on.  But I wouldn't use it over acrylics.  It's just too hot.  Which is why it makes such a good finish for seams and fine cracks and scratches, it actually bonds with the styrene.

You can also spray it on as a primer.  But you have to really thin it well with lacquer thinner or you end with a horrible mess of "spider webs".  Which means if it isn't thin enough, it forms fine threads that get all over everything.

Ed
We don't just embrace insanity here.  We feel it up, french kiss it and then buy it a drink.

frank2056

You can also use denatured alcohol as a solvent/cleaner/remover. If you put Mr. Surfacer on a seam and let it dry, a Q tip or disposable foam microbrush dipped in denatured alcohol will eventually dissolve and remove Mr. Surfacer, leaving it only in the seam.

An alternative for Mr. Surfacer is Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer. It's equivalent to Mr. Surfacer 1000. Both are actually re-bottled automotive primers, which can be hard to find in small quantities.

Frank

Hawkeye

In this thread

http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=111677&page=1

I include discussion on using Mr Surfacer and how to apply it. I have a good brush that I clean with lacquer thinner after using it to apply. I apply it by blotting it on the area to be covered.

Gerald Voigt
http://www.hawkeyeshobbies.com
Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench.

BlackOps

Gerald, thanks for the link, I also checked out your blog, lots of great tips and insight there :)

Frank, thanks for the info, the q-tip technique sounds promising.

Ed, I think I might not have been clear, Once the Mr. Surfacer has cured would there be any adverse effects of using acrylic overtop of it? Or is it only copmpatible with enamels.
Jeff G.
Stumbling through life.

frank2056

Quote from: BlackOpsOnce the Mr. Surfacer has cured would there be any adverse effects of using acrylic overtop of it? Or is it only copmpatible with enamels.

Once dry, Mr. Surfacer (or the Tamiya equivalent) leaves a very hard finish that is just perfect for acrylics. I've used it as a primer and for seam filling for years, and have overcoated it with Testors, Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo acrylics with no problems at all. I've also used it as a primer for Testors metalizer paints with no problems at all.

If I use Mr. Surfacer to cover a wide area, I'll often give it a light sanding/polishing with very fine (1000) wet & dry sandpaper or with Scotchbrite pads - especially if I'm going to put a metallic coat on it. You can get an almost glassy smooth finish this way.

Frank

Ed S

I would agree with Frank.  Once Mr Surface, or the Tamiya is cured, none of the regular model paints are going to affect it.

Ed 
We don't just embrace insanity here.  We feel it up, french kiss it and then buy it a drink.

BlackOps

Thank you Gents :)    That's what I needed to know before I order some (local LHS doesn't stock it).
Jeff G.
Stumbling through life.