avatar_Gekko_1

Me-262 Afrika begins!

Started by Gekko_1, September 06, 2006, 06:17:53 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Ian the Kiwi Herder

Still enjoying the ride, Richard..... ;)

Ian
"When the Carpet Monster tells you it's full....
....it's time to tidy the workbench"

Confuscious (maybe)

Sisko


Day glo Putty scheme says Austin Powers to me!!!!!

Yeh Baby Yeh!
Get this Cheese to sick bay!

B777LR

whats that third engine for? Assymetric me-262?

Gekko_1

Quotewhats that third engine for? Assymetric me-262?
"I also took the time to assemble one of the clear engine nacelles and paint the spare gun cover panel so that I can do some weathering practise before I commit to the actual model."

I didn't want to risk stuffing up the weathering process on a model that has taken me many hours to painstakingly airbrush, so I thought I'd quickly build one of the kits spare engine nacelles, paint it and practise the weathering on that first.

Details and pics of that experimentation to follow........ :unsure:  :blink:  :wacko:

:cheers:

Richard.

Gekko_1

Hi guys,

did some digital work today. I wanted to re-do the side profile to better match how the airbrush job turned out, plus I wanted to try and weather it up as close as possible to how I see it ending up in my minds eye. Doing it this way gave me a better idea of what I needed to tackle and the order in which I need to do it.



With just over 800 views to this thread I realised that there are one or two people following this build so I thought I'd better get it right and do a good job! :o  :unsure:  :blink:  :wacko:  :dum:

For those interested in the 'kills'. There is one USN Venom, one RAAF Vampire and one RAF Shooting Star. :o  Hey, its "What if" OK :P  B)

:cheers:

Richard.

B777LR

Quote
Quotewhats that third engine for? Assymetric me-262?
"I also took the time to assemble one of the clear engine nacelles and paint the spare gun cover panel so that I can do some weathering practise before I commit to the actual model."

I didn't want to risk stuffing up the weathering process on a model that has taken me many hours to painstakingly airbrush, so I thought I'd quickly build one of the kits spare engine nacelles, paint it and practise the weathering on that first.

Details and pics of that experimentation to follow........ :unsure:  :blink:  :wacko:

:cheers:

Richard.
you can buiy a 1/72 or 48 Me-262 and make it a single engine aircraft, using the spare B)  

Radish

Great progress....glorious stuff :P  
Once you've visited the land of the Loonies, a return is never far away.....

Still His (or Her) Majesty, Queen Caroline of the Midlands, Resident Drag Queen

Ollie

Lemme chime in, wicked stuff you got there!!

:)  :wub:  

Brian da Basher

#53
Richard,
   Wow you're in the proces of building the most amazing 262 ever! I really like your concept of alternative markings and camo schemes! This rocks, even if it doesn't have spats! B)

Did I mention that I love spats? :wub:

Brian da Basher

NARSES2

Do not condemn the judgement of another because it differs from your own. You may both be wrong.

elmayerle

Quote
Quote
Quotewhats that third engine for? Assymetric me-262?
"I also took the time to assemble one of the clear engine nacelles and paint the spare gun cover panel so that I can do some weathering practise before I commit to the actual model."

I didn't want to risk stuffing up the weathering process on a model that has taken me many hours to painstakingly airbrush, so I thought I'd quickly build one of the kits spare engine nacelles, paint it and practise the weathering on that first.

Details and pics of that experimentation to follow........ :unsure:  :blink:  :wacko:

:cheers:

Richard.
you can buiy a 1/72 or 48 Me-262 and make it a single engine aircraft, using the spare B)
Or use that third engine on another one to make a trimotor - say with the engine in the nose ala' the Yak-17.
"Reality is the leading cause of stress amongst those in touch with it."
--Jane Wagner and Lily Tomlin

lancer

The profile demands serious respect.
If you love, love without reservation; If you fight, fight without fear - THAT is the way of the warrior

If you go into battle knowing you will die, then you will live. If you go into battle hoping to live, then you will die

Ian the Kiwi Herder

QuoteThe profile demands serious respect.
I wish to be associated with the comments of the previous speaker.

Ian
"When the Carpet Monster tells you it's full....
....it's time to tidy the workbench"

Confuscious (maybe)

Gekko_1

OK guys, here we go with the weathering. First off how do I tackle an issue like this? :wacko:

Well I try as best as I can to begin the chipping effect as "logical" as possible as I'll try to illustrate below.


1) Chipping in corners and along lines aft of the panel line of the airflow (hope you understand what I mean?) :unsure: Also note on panel "A" the chipping around the latches.

2) Don't do all and every corner. Vary the effect. Concentrate on areas where ground crew would be most active and or direct airflow, vibrations etc could effect the paint.

3) make sure to leave some areas plain and unaffected, this helps to break up the effect.

Note panels A and B are painted slightly darker. Its very subtle, and that's the point. You may have noticed this on my Ki-84 back a few pages?

What do I use:

Well, here's a pic of the usual suspects :P


Here's a list of the pencils:

Faber Castel Polychromos 233 Cold gray IV
Faber-Castel No.57
Sanford Prismacolor PC1051 warm grey 20%
Sanford Prismacolor PC1063 cool grey 50%
Sanford Prismacolor PC949 metalic silver
Derwent Metalic Pewter 81
Derwent Metalic Silver 80

A word of warning too, I also purchased a Faber Castel Polychromos 251 silver. This pencil tended to flake when applied to the model and is therefore useless for the job of chipping. :(



I decided to practise on the 'spares' before committing to the model. I started off with the Faber Castel Polychromos 233 Cold gray IV. This gives a nice grey chipped effect. I use it at this initial stage like an artist would do a pre-painting on the canvas just to get some colour / effect down and get a feel for where to go with it. Having a plan before you commit is always a good idea, but not essential. If, after reading / looking through all of this you are still not too sure all I can suggest is that you just simply "go for it", if you stuff it up don't worry too much, as long as you've learnt something you'll always improve next time. Which is what its all about really, having a go, making mistakes, learning from them and moving forward. :D

The brighter silver you can see further back on the engine pod is Sanford Prismacolor PC949 metalic silver. I put this on just to get an idea of the contrast between the grey and the actual silver. At this stage I'm still trying, checking, analysing. The technique I use is to lay down the colour using very small dots with a very sharp pencil tip. I never "colour-in" and area, I always make up the shape with dots. I also lay the pencil flat to highlight corners etc. I'll illustrate that effect later on when I'm doing the actual model.



The dark marks on the tan and light green was achieved with a sponge and some dark green paint. Not sure at this stage if I like the effect?



Most of the chipping done here was using the grey. I strongly suggest using a grey first and moving on to an actual silver pencil later. You don't want to make it too stark so be cautious at first 'till you get the idea of what your doing.





Next comes the panel line wash......



nev

Between almost-true and completely-crazy, there is a rainbow of nice shades - Tophe


Sales of Airfix kits plummeted in the 1980s, and GCSEs had to be made easier as a result - James May