What do you guys use....?

[SinUnNombre]

Hey there again. I've got bit hard again by the "actually-frigging-build-something" bug and I've got a lot of work done on a few kits. But now I've come to a dilemma. I've several kits that call for weight to be added to the nose, but I'm not sure what to use. So, what do you guys use? And do you use anything to measure/weigh it or just put in a good amount? Thanks again for any information. And just so you know, my 1/72 USCG OV-10D hangs in the balance of this question.

Jon

[Sentinel Chicken]

Pennies. You always accumulate a bunch of 'em from loose change over the years and I don't think you'd be put out a few cents if you superglue 'em in the nose section. It's ways worked well for me.

If the space is narrow, I found that nails work pretty good, too.  

[Eddie M.]

As well as BBs in white glue. I also use cut lengths of large gauge solder, wrapped in masking tape and supered glued to the inside of the nose.

[anthonyp]

Testor's putty makes pretty good balast.  It doesn't eat the plastic, and can ooze itself into the various contours of the nose section, so I'm happy with it.  If a lot of weight is needed, medium sized BB's in the middle of the putty works well.

   

[dragon]

The 1/72 OV-10 is a notorious tail sitter.  Modeling Clay won't work in this situation.  Look in the Train section of your local hobby store.  There exists a modeling clay that is impregnated with lead and bird shot sized bbs.  You might need to stuff some of the weight directly behind the second seat in addition to the nose. B)  

[Brian da Basher]

I hear lead fishing sinkers work well too.

Brian da Basher

[Daryl J.]

Lead fishing weight wire about as thick as a little kid's finger secured with super glue/kicker or epoxy.    It's cuttable, maleable into whatever shape needed, and was free since it was found on the Oregon coast's beach.

Small lead fishing sinkers would work well or chunks of tire weights cut and trimmed to size.


HTH,
Daryl J.

[John Howling Mouse]

I use small shotgun pellets.  They come in a variety of diameters so they nicely fit any concave shape.  I drip a little gap-filling CA glue over them and they are welded into place.  Doesn't take much to off-set even the most notorious tail-sitters!

A friendly gunsmith can set you up with a lifetime supply.

[Gary]

Worse case senario, display on a nice wooden base. Drill a small diameter hole in the base and a matching one in the nosewheel, insert a wire in the wheel and then into the hole in the base. I've even seen guys use longer lengths and have the wire removeable from the base for transporting to shows. CA on a mirror I've heard will work too, but I've never seen it.

Don't forget that on something like a twin engined job like that, you can stash a few more bb's behind the props too!

[Nigel Bunker]

I used to use lead fishing weights until they were banned. I bought a roll of lead flashing (flat lead sheet used to make watertight joints around chimney stacks, etc in UK) and use this. As it's flat sheet, if space is at a premium, I replace cockpit floors with this to add weight.

[Howard of Effingham]

for nose weighting i use plastcine and tyre weights.

they work a treat, usually!

[P1127]

Air gun pellets squashed flat with pliers. I got a tub of used ones from a friend who shoots target air pistol a few years back, but you can buy them at gun stores.

[Jennings]

You guys who use plasticine should take note - eventually your model will melt.  Ask me how I know that.  It takes ages (years sometimes), but the oils in the clay will react with styrene.  Ask me how I know.

Use tire (or tyre, if you must) weights secured with epoxy or superglue.

J

[nev]

How do you know J?

I use ball-bearings/lead shot/fishing weights held in place with blu-tac or milliput.  For more heavy duty nose weight I use old screws.

As for if I've got enough - I balance the model where the main gear goes and see if its nose heavy or nose light

[lancer]

I use lead solder that I get from the local hardware shop.