Adhesives for Modelling

[rallymodeller]

Normally I use Ambroid Pro-Weld (aka raw Methyl-Ethyl Ketone) but for some reason my LHS can't get it (he says there's none to be had in SW Ontario), so I've been forced to switch to either Tenax or Tamiya Cement. Can't stand Tenax, but Tam Cement seems to be OK (although the odour gives me a slight headache, a problem I don't have with MEK)

So what do y'all use to stick the styrene?

[upnorth]

I was lucky enough to get my hands on a bottle of Ambroid Pro-Weld once when I still lived in Canada and I really liked the stuff. I had no luck finding more when I ran out. It was explained to me by someone that because it is raw MEK and that MEK is a recognized carcinogen that the Canadian government requires importers to have special licenses which are quite costly in order to bring it into Canada and so thats why you don't see it widely.

When I was living in Canada, I kept my glue basic. I had Testors liquid glue for general styrene to styrene bonding and a bottle of quite good medium viscosity CA that a local comic shop who also sold Warhammer metal figurines carried.

The fist styrene glue I came across here in the Czech Republic was Revell's Contacta liquid cement. I quite like it as its a bit thicker than Testors liquid cement and it creates a very strong bond (particularly good for attaching landing gear).

Beyond that, I have a bottle of Tamiya extra thin liquid cement and a bottle of Loctite Super Attack CA with a brush applicator in its cap.

[Mossie]

I've used Revell's Contacta as well.  Pretty good stuff.  Other than that I tend to use the Humbrol Poly range.  The tube glue is good thick stuff that will stay where you put it, it's best to apply it using a cocktail stick/toothpick as it's difficult to control, I had a bizzare accident that ruined an A-10 once!  The bottle Poly is very thin & will travel down any seem, but go easy with it as it will go everywhere!  The Precision Poly comes in a bottle with a long thin tubular applicator, makes it easy to apply, it's thickness is between the others to so it will run if you want it to (or don't if your heavy handed!).  The main reason I tend to use these is they're easy to get hold of in the UK & I've never had any problems with them (apart from through pure stupidity!).

EDIT Jeremy, I'd echo Upnorths point about MEK, I used to use it one place I worked & we were only supposed to use it in a fume cupboard.  You can only buy it through industrial outlets in the UK.  It's pretty nasty stuff, if you can find something that works for you & doesn't give you headache I'd go with it, otherwise, use it within a paint booth if you've got one.

[anthonyp]

Testor's tube glue, both the good ol' vision inducing nasty stuff, and the orange smelling non-toxic stuff in the blue tube for the main building.  The non-toxic stuff takes a bit longer to dry, though.

For canopies and other clear bits, Testor's window glue.  Takes forever to dry, but my windows don't fog over anymore.

For painted bits, some CA always works.  I forget the brand, but the medium thickness stuff that the LHS's carry works great (especially as it get's older and thickens up).  I was in a pinch and bought some generic CA at one shop a few months ago, was told it was "Just like the other stuff!"  Uh-uh...  I'm never going off-brand again.  Now if I could only remember the brand name.  I know the look of the bottle, just not the brand.   :dum:

I've tried other model glues, but I'm most comfortable with the ol' Testor's stuff.

[Radish]

Humbrol liquid cement.
CA for painted bits.
White Glue for transparances.
 

[Brian da Basher]

I use regular Testor's in the orange tube for most of my building. I really like LocTite, but I've had trouble finding it, so I use Krazy Glue when I need CA. I recently discovered Krazy Glue with the brush applicator and I love it! For attaching canopies, I use good old Elmer's white school glue. It dries clear and never fogs.

Brian da Basher

[BlackOps]

I use Zap a Gap CA glue and have been pretty happy with the results.

This is the stuff

For clear parts such as canopies and lights I use plain old Elmers white school glue.

[Andrew Gorman]

Ambroid Pro-Weld isn't just straight MEK- it also includes some methylene chloride, which makes it work on acrylics/plexiglas/perspex and butyrate plastics- important if you use parts yu find on the street like I do.  It's pretty wonderful stuff.  Plastruct Plastic weld is very similar, as are almost any plexiglas cements you can get from a plastics distributor.  The methylene chloride is a nasty chemical, but it enables the cement to do its job.  When I'm feeling cheap, I've used purple PVC primer which is mostly MEK.
Andrew

[Keith Diamond]

Testors Liquid Cement in the precision applicator for most items, occasionally some super glue for a few parts, and Testors Clear Parts cement for clear parts.  I used to use just white glue, but the Testors Clear Parts cememt is easier to apply evenly.

[B777LR]

I use revell liquid glue, you know, the kind that come in revell gift sets  

[Andrew Gorman]

Another glue I really like is the tube glue from Heller brush-paint-and glue kits!  Seems to set up quicker than Testors, and does not have the nasty mustard oil Testors added to keep kids from sniffing it.  Unfortunately my supply is running out.  Everything I have came out of kits at deep,deep discount purchased from Model Expo several years ago.
Andrew

[Spey_Phantom]

personaly, i like to use revell Contacta (Needle and brush) because of the "welding" effect of the glue, witch makes the model more break proof, besides its leaves no sticky mess compared to to a tube.

[B777LR]

personaly, i like to use revell Contacta (Needle and brush) because of the "welding" effect of the glue, witch makes the model more break proof, besides its leaves no sticky mess compared to to a tube.

agree

but with the issue about melting some airfix kits  

[jcf]

Tamiya Extra-Thin
Testors Liquid
Testors in the rectangular black bottle with the steel tube.
Testors tube on rare occasions

Also have Weld-On and Tenax but rarely use either.

CA for resin/metal

Epoxy

Cheers, Jon

[cthulhu77]

Regular old Krazy Glue for most bits, Zap for filling, and Krystal Kleer for the clear pieces. I have a tube of testor's regular cement when I am not in a huge rush (rarely).