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Revell Dornier 335 In Progress

Started by Allan, May 04, 2007, 06:23:43 PM

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Weaver

Real Do-335s had a 30mm in the front engine V and two 20mm in the upper nose: how did they dispose of cartridge cases?
"Things need not have happened to be true. Tales and dreams are the shadow-truths that will endure when mere facts are dust and ashes, and forgot."
 - Sandman: A Midsummer Night's Dream, by Neil Gaiman

"I dunno, I'm making this up as I go."
 - Indiana Jones

sequoiaranger

>Real Do-335s had a 30mm in the front engine V and two 20mm in the upper nose: how did they dispose of cartridge cases? <

That is a good question, and I don't KNOW the answer. I am trying to think of all the planes with nose guns---none come to mind that ejected shell casings. The Zero, the Me-109, the P-40, or Migs, Yaks,  and Laggs---it seems they all retained the shell casings somehow. Hmmm.

Can anyone else shed some light on this "problem"?
My mind is like a compost heap: both "fertile" and "rotten"!

Weaver

I've just found a cutaway of the Do-335. It's not completely clear on this point, but there is something labelled a "collector tray" in the bottom of the gun bay.......
"Things need not have happened to be true. Tales and dreams are the shadow-truths that will endure when mere facts are dust and ashes, and forgot."
 - Sandman: A Midsummer Night's Dream, by Neil Gaiman

"I dunno, I'm making this up as I go."
 - Indiana Jones

John Howling Mouse

Nice paintjob, Allan.  Makes for a total re-imagination of the original Do-335.

Cool!
Styrene in my blood and an impressive void in my cranium.

Allan

No, it's not actually finished yet, but I think I'm just about there this time. The big mistake was choosing to use white and yellow paint on the model. That caused lots of wasted time as those two colors are notoriously hard to apply. Also, the overspray was killing me and I had to constantly remask to correct the overspray. Alert Whiffers will notice that the color scheme has changed somewhat.
But, happily, I think things are just about ready for the decals and hopefully the next time you see this plane it will be with some livery in the form of rising sun decals and some numbers plus something Japanesey on the rudder.
And now, I will need some advice on how to weather this plane a little bit--so please give me your thoughts.
Here're the latest photos taken this evening Thursday 12 February 2009--it's been a long, hard journey to get this far, but I'm glad I did it. Not much further to go!!!!
Allan in Canberra









cthulhu77

It's been worth the wait !!!    :drink:
  for weathering, I would stick to pastels. if it gets to be too much, it is easy to remove without damaging that fantastic paint job.  You can use a silver coloured pencil for the dings and dents.

sequoiaranger

Your Anteater certainly is colorful!!  :wub:

>The big mistake was choosing to use white and yellow paint on the model. That caused lots of wasted time as those two colors are notoriously hard to apply. Also, the overspray was killing me and I had to constantly remask to correct the overspray.<

Because "our" subjects are usually painted in rather drab and dark camouflage colors, white, yellow, and red paint gives striking contrast and "livens up" those models and adds interest. Whites and yellows (and reds, too) are no harder to apply than any other colors, EXCEPT that the result is often less satisfactory with only one coat (or two). Because these colors are so light, the background color, or undercoat, may show through. This is a simple fix--first, apply a base coat of very light gray (like a bottom-of-the-plane camo color) and let dry. Assume you will need at least two coats, maybe three, of the final light color you wish to apply. Apply them.

As far as overspray goes, I usually use two types of masking---one applied directly to the model to define and/or isolate that spot that I want to paint, and then hold expendable cardboard next to it with my other hand to shield overspray. Think of it as "bowel surgery" where the whole body is covered with a sheet, except for a hole where the surgeon is working.

The combination of isolating the area to be painted and multiple coats of paint should enable white or yellow to be used successfully.

My mind is like a compost heap: both "fertile" and "rotten"!

Brian da Basher

Totally worth the wait, Allan! That paint scheme has the potential of being one of the Outstanding Whiffie Paint Schemes of 2009! Gorgeous!!!
:wub: :wub:
Brian da Basher

HOG

Hi Alan,

That Pfiel is looking fantastic!.  :thumbsup:
As regards the shellcases, just tell people there cartridgeless rounds  :o
Cheers  :drink:
G
H-O-G = Head Out of Gestalt-hands on autopilot
WORK! The curse of the drinking class.
"Guard well your spare moments. They are like uncut diamonds. Discard them and their value will never be known. Improve them and they will become the brightest gems in a useful life."
(Ralph Waldo Emerson )

Allan

Thanks Brian.
Can you give me some tips on how to weather this bird, as I have no idea other than to use a silver pencil here and there and apply some charcoal to simulate engine exhaust and gunpowder?
Allan in Canbera

BlackOps

Allan lookin good, here are a few links to some weathering tips that may be helpful.

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Weathering.html

http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/weatheringda_1.htm


Also Greg's idea of using pastels is also a good one but works best ofer a flat coat of paint. Here's a links that shows a bit about it.

http://employees.csbsju.edu/rsorensen/modelcitizen/sprue_u/300level/303pastels.html

Hope this helps :)

Jeff G.
Stumbling through life.

Allan

Hi BlackOps and others for the suggestions--I'll have a go after decalling and dullcoating.
In my weathering arsenal I have a charcoal stick, some acrylic burnt sienna and a bottle of the Testors enamel tyre rubber, all of which might be useful. The paint will have to be well-thinned though. Also have a silver pencil and will favor it over the use of silver paint, although I just might use some of that as well.
Please keep the tips coming.
Allan in Canberra

cthulhu77

I'd recommend picking up a cheap set of oil pastels from the local arts/crafts store. When you grind them down, they can be applied with a brush easily.  Yeah, it is a bit time intensive, but worth it all in all. I've started using face makeup too...basically ground pigment, and certainly inexpensive.

BlackOps

I second the pastels, I use chalk pastels though. I haven't tried the oil pastels. I just grind the chalk pastels on a piece of rough sandpaper and use it as a mixing pallet, then brush on. Go lightly at first because it may be darker than you first think.

Good call on the silver pencil, I like mine too  :thumbsup:
Jeff G.
Stumbling through life.

jcf

Quote from: sequoiaranger on December 11, 2008, 11:55:39 PM
>Real Do-335s had a 30mm in the front engine V and two 20mm in the upper nose: how did they dispose of cartridge cases? <

That is a good question, and I don't KNOW the answer. I am trying to think of all the planes with nose guns---none come to mind that ejected shell casings. The Zero, the Me-109, the P-40, or Migs, Yaks,  and Laggs---it seems they all retained the shell casings somehow. Hmmm.

Can anyone else shed some light on this "problem"?

After checking the Arthur Bentley Do 335 drawings, it is clear that collector boxes were used for the guns.

Jon