avatar_van883

Hawker P.1216

Started by van883, November 14, 2007, 02:19:13 PM

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van883

The SIG display inspired me to get started. I think I have some challenges ahead....

Van


Martin H

Nothing a few tubes of filler wont cure LOL
I always hope for the best.
Unfortunately,
experience has taught me to expect the worst.

Size (of the stash) matters.

IPMS (UK) What if? SIG Leader.
IPMS (UK) Project Cancelled SIG Member.

kitnut617

What a co-incidense, I was looking at mine too last night. You could probably use this, but I'll still have to probe Martin' mind on how the parts should go together:



If I'm not building models, I'm out riding my dirtbike

lancer

And what additional bits are required to build the thing as well.  
If you love, love without reservation; If you fight, fight without fear - THAT is the way of the warrior

If you go into battle knowing you will die, then you will live. If you go into battle hoping to live, then you will die

Hobbes

For the extra bits needed, see this thread

Thorvic

Basic construction guidelines:-

1. Clean up parts and fill any air holes or bubbles.

2. Mate The upper fuselage to the engine pod and fill gap with milliput to blend in the seam.

3. Use plastic card and milliput to create the the pen knib style exhaust at the rear of the engine pod to blend in with the aft lower fuselage.

4. Prep the side nozzel fairings to fit the side of the engine pod but do not attach as yet (you will need to be able to clean up the wing fuslage join before attaching the fairings.

5. Test fit the wing to fuselage join in accordance with the drawings and work out where the wing joins the fuselage pod.

6. Drill and pin wings and fuselage to ensure a strong fit using superglue then use milliput and plenty of water to blend the wings to the fuselage (Top and bottom). Scrape off excess milliput before it seta to allow easier sanding later.

7. Using the drawings as a basis, test fit the booms and ensure they allign correctly. Glue and pin in place then fill seam on lower wing join.

8. Fit engine side nozzel fairings as they will no long foul clean up of engine, wing  or boom seams.

9. On the upper wing there will be a step between the wing and boom. Mask the wing either side of the boom and use plastic card/Millput to blend in the booms to the wing upper surface.

10. Create or use Martins add on Tail fins in accordance with the drawings.

11. The nose gear and main gear doors need to be made from Plastic card.

12. Source suitable undercarriage legs and wheels, mine were nose tornado gear coupled with EFA legs fitted with twin Mirage IV wheels. A better alternative might be a from a 1/144 or similar Airliner.

Pylons were scavanged from an early EFA kit  (well you wouldnt rob the new revell kits now would we !!)

The Canopy - pester Martin to pull his finger from his arse and create the the mould master to use the vacform machine he borrowed off me to create the canopies !!!! :angry: . Otherwise an F-15 Canopy is best for the rear canopy and EFA for the windscreen (The EFA's all have a spine which dont make it suitable for fitting the 1216.

Hope this helps the build from what i remember from the original construction

Note the masters used were not completed when cast as done at short notice, this thats why the resin is a tad rough and ill fitting  as intended to take the construction further before being cloaned.

Cheers

Geoff
Project Cancelled SIG Secretary, specialising in post war British RN warships, RN and RAF aircraft projects. Also USN and Russian warships

kitnut617

Thanks Geoff for the breakdown, that will help considerably.  I was going to suggest the canopy looks very similar to the Mitsubishi XF-2A canopy.  And I was thinking of using Clunk (CF-100) main gear for the main u/c:
If I'm not building models, I'm out riding my dirtbike

lancer

My thanks as well, now I have a chance at actually building one of them
If you love, love without reservation; If you fight, fight without fear - THAT is the way of the warrior

If you go into battle knowing you will die, then you will live. If you go into battle hoping to live, then you will die

Martin H

QuoteThe Canopy - pester Martin to pull his finger from his arse and create the the mould master to use the vacform machine he borrowed off me to create the canopies !!!! :angry: . Otherwise an F-15 Canopy is best for the rear canopy and EFA for the windscreen (The EFA's all have a spine which dont make it suitable for fitting the 1216.
Bloody Hell!  ok i get the hint. Ill have a mess with the damn thing this weekend.
I always hope for the best.
Unfortunately,
experience has taught me to expect the worst.

Size (of the stash) matters.

IPMS (UK) What if? SIG Leader.
IPMS (UK) Project Cancelled SIG Member.

van883

Has anyone got a photo of the underside of a made kit-Martin showed me at telford-but I did not have a camera. Also as I got an airfix eurofighter canopy (as i was advised to do)-should I fair it in where the spine would go or what-I'm reluctant to buy an F-15 just for the canopy...

cheers

Van

Martin H

Van, i made a aft canopy fairing for my one useing a section from a drop tank nose.

as for an underside shot.....



they any good?
I always hope for the best.
Unfortunately,
experience has taught me to expect the worst.

Size (of the stash) matters.

IPMS (UK) What if? SIG Leader.
IPMS (UK) Project Cancelled SIG Member.

Arc3371

Looks great!

How much extra parts are needed for this kit?

kitnut617

#12
Martin, when you glue the top fuselage to the air duct/engine, do you fill the gap on the sides so it has a vertical side or is there a curved blending to it? Another question, was this a true VTOL aircraft?

Robert
If I'm not building models, I'm out riding my dirtbike

retro_seventies

AFAIK it was a STOVL as opposed to to a TRUE VTOL - subtle difference, but a difference nonetheless.
"Computer games don't affect kids. I mean, if Pac-Man affected us as kids, we'd all be running around in darkened rooms, munching magic pills and listening to repetitive electronic music." Kristin Wilson, Nintendo Inc, 1989.

van883

#14
Thanks for the pics Martin-REALLY helpful!  :D

Van