A good wash

[superhornet1015]

Hey All,  I don't know if this was ever posted and being new to this forum I have to ask this. Does any one know what is the ratio for making a good wash and what is a good paint to use for it?



                                                                Thanks,Pete

[Captain Canada]

Good question !

Anyone ?

[noxioux]

You'll probably get as many answers to this question as there are modelers out here.  I personally don't think this is something that you can nail down to a particular ratio or science.  It's more of a seat-of-your-pants thing.

What I typically do is wash with my testors enamels.  I'll stir the bottle, shake it good, and then use the cap for a paint cup.  I'll add mineral spirits or testors thinner until I get a pretty thin paint mixture.  It's more akin to dirty thinner than thinned paint, if you get my drift.

If it's nice and thin, a lot of the times it will just flow through your recessed details, and along the edges of raised details.  It also makes pretty good stains and blobs, too.

I think oil-based paints make the best material for washes, especially if you primarily paint with acrylics.  What  you don't want to do is do your wash with the same type of paint you did your model with.  If you paint from a rattle can, and wash with oil based stuff, you'll just make a mess.  You could certainly wash with acrylics as well, but the thing about oil based media is that you can let it completely dry, and still wipe off the excess with a thinner-damped bit of cloth or q-tip.  There's my 2 and a half cents.

[AeroplaneDriver]

I use Grumbacher acrylic, black and burnt umber.  I mix roughly (very roughly) 1 part paint, 3 parts liquid dish soap, 1 part water.  This make a thick sludge wash that stays in the panel lines nicely.  To remove the excess I use old t-shirts.  First I wipe it down with a dry t-shirt, then a a damp one.  I use a cotton bud/Q-tip for tight spots and any stubborn bits get a dab of isopropyl alcohol.  I use this wash over enamels/acrylics/lacquers with no problems, but I do normally apply a Future coat long before I get to the wash stage.  Sometimes, if the Future coat comes out very nicely and is very smooth it takes a few applications of wash to get a drak enough effect, but I'd rather do it 3 times to get it dark enough than have too much after one try.

In my experience as long as there is more soap than paint I can vary the water and paint for consistency and shading without any problems.

[B777LR]

Could someone explain to me what a wash is, and what it is used for?

[AeroplaneDriver]

Could someone explain to me what a wash is, and what it is used for?

It is the act of removing dirt and odor from your person with soap and water.  Its primary use is in stopping ladyfolk from fleeing your presence.



Sorry, that comment was just too good to pass up.

Basically, a wash is used to bring out surface detail and add a little depth to the finish of a model.  It is usually applied roughly around any detail and allowed to partially dry, then the excess is removed with a cloth so that some of the wash stays in the recessed detail.  You can use acrylic, watercolor or enamel for a wash as long as it it removed before it is completely dry.  I prefer acrylic, simply because it covers well, but is removed with nice clean, safe water.  A thinner will be needed to remove an enamel wash.

Try it on an old model with recessed panel lines.  Pick up a tube of cheap acrylic paint at an arts/crafts store (any brand will do) and mix a dab of it it with some liquid soap and a drop of water.  Then brush it onto the model.  Dont worry about staying in the right spot, I usually paint the entire model, one section at a time.  Let it sry for 5 minutes, then take a scrap of soft cloth, like an old t-shirt, dampen it and wife the model in the direction of the airflow.  Keep wiping it down until you are left with the wash only in the panel lines.  Your first try may end up looking too dark, or not dark enough, but with just a little practice you will be amazed with the depth it gives a model when it turns out 'just right'.

[superhornet1015]

Thanks Guys for all the replies,I guess I'll just have to wing it(no pun intended).



                                                                                      Pete


                                                                   

[John Howling Mouse]

I've shared this technique with a few people and it seems to work without much effort or measuring.  In an inverted jar lid, I mix in my tint color (usually a drop of brown mixed with a drop of dark grey acrylic) in a few drops of Future/Kleer.  I get a transparent dye from this.  I let this thin mixture work its way by capillary action into wheel well details and such.  It nicely "etches" down into every recess and is pretty much good "as is" since some actual stainage in such places on real aircraft etc. can actually be wet/glossy looking.  If a sheen is to be avoided, I simply airbrush Testors Clear Flat Acrylic (the very best de-glosser I've ever used) onto the Future-tinted surface after it dries.  Works in panel lines, cockpit details, etc.  Test it in a wheel well sometime---I think you'll find it nearly foolproof (if anyone can screw up a technique, it's me, but this works).   Here's an example:

[deathjester]

Another thing you can do is drybrush lightly over the washed area, with a suitable light shade, once it's dry, to add further depth to the model.  Works for me !

[John Howling Mouse]

Alternatively you can use this stuff ..... Promodellers Weathering Wash.

Does this stuff come in different colors (i.e. lighter than the sample he used)?

[lancer]

I really must learn how to do washes...