P-47 SuperBolt

[SimonR]

Forex? Isn't that a beer from Queensland? 

It is an Australian invention, albeit from Victoria. It's a brand of plastic sheet that's used for signs and architectural models. It's easier to work with and sand than regular styrene sheets - especially in larger thicknesses. It's basically weapons grade plutonium for scratch builders and whiffers.

http://www.alucobond.com.au/html/s02_article/article_view.asp?id=200&nav_cat_id=196&nav_top_id=79&dsb=500

[Martin H]

Forex? Isn't that a beer from Queensland? 

It is an Australian invention, albeit from Victoria. It's a brand of plastic sheet that's used for signs and architectural models. It's easier to work with and sand than regular styrene sheets - especially in larger thicknesses. It's basically weapons grade plutonium for scratch builders and whiffers.

http://www.alucobond.com.au/html/s02_article/article_view.asp?id=200&nav_cat_id=196&nav_top_id=79&dsb=500

So were can we get this stuff?

[SimonR]

Forex? Isn't that a beer from Queensland? 

It is an Australian invention, albeit from Victoria. It's a brand of plastic sheet that's used for signs and architectural models. It's easier to work with and sand than regular styrene sheets - especially in larger thicknesses. It's basically weapons grade plutonium for scratch builders and whiffers.

http://www.alucobond.com.au/html/s02_article/article_view.asp?id=200&nav_cat_id=196&nav_top_id=79&dsb=500

So were can we get this stuff?

I got mine from here:

http://www.utrechtart.com

They have the "Plastruct" brand which is basically the same thing. I'm sure some committed googling would turn up a UK source.

[jcf]

Forex? Isn't that a beer from Queensland? 

It is an Australian invention, albeit from Victoria. It's a brand of plastic sheet that's used for signs and architectural models. It's easier to work with and sand than regular styrene sheets - especially in larger thicknesses. It's basically weapons grade plutonium for scratch builders and whiffers.

http://www.alucobond.com.au/html/s02_article/article_view.asp?id=200&nav_cat_id=196&nav_top_id=79&dsb=500

Its a Swiss product and is not the only brand of expanded PVC sheet.

I've used the Sintra brand since the early 90s.

Jon

[John Howling Mouse]

Forex? Isn't that a beer from Queensland? 

It is an Australian invention, albeit from Victoria. It's a brand of plastic sheet that's used for signs and architectural models. It's easier to work with and sand than regular styrene sheets - especially in larger thicknesses. It's basically weapons grade plutonium for scratch builders and whiffers.

http://www.alucobond.com.au/html/s02_article/article_view.asp?id=200&nav_cat_id=196&nav_top_id=79&dsb=500

Its a Swiss product and is not the only brand of expanded PVC sheet.

I've used the Sintra brand since the early 90s.

Jon

Just received a note from Forex's US distributor and "Forex" is indeed marketed as "Sintra" in the States.  It is actually the same material.  Now, back to my model.

Er...um...I have no new pics to show.  D'oh!   

[John Howling Mouse]

Well, it is very possible that I just ruined both my SuperBolt models.     I'd show pics but I'm on a different computer right now.

Because of the dissimilar contours b/w the nose plug and the front of the fuselage, I thought I'd better use something that I could sculpt in place.
I've used Milliput before but switched to plumbers epoxy long ago when I found out Milliput is just an overpriced "hobby-packaged" version of the same commodity.
But this time I thought I'd give Aves Superfine White Apoxie Sculpt a try.  Expensive stuff, too, but I've heard other modellers rave about its ease of use.

Well, it came in the mail yesterday so it was time to trial the stuff.  As soon as I opened the two tiny jars, I realized it is again just another form of the same 3M plumbers epoxy that costs 1/3 as much.  Even smells the same!!  After kneading the product for the required two minutes and reaching a uniform color, it sure acted just like plumbers epoxy too: I had to take off the latex gloves I had been using as the stickiness of the product was so bad it began to pull the gloves apart, anyhow.  I considered going back to good ol' Tamiya putty but then thought "I just spent $30 on this stuff and 2 minutes kneading it, so here goes..."

What a frickin' MESS!!!  I found that it was just too tacky and, yet, when using water to smooth it down, it then becomes a slippery mess.  In no time, the entire fuselage was covered in white Apoxie fingerprints with little white rivulets of the gunk going all over the place.  I've seen some of the figures, etc. that people have sculpted with this stuff but it is definitely no "Roma Plastilina" that's for sure!  I find even SuperSculpey quite a bit easier to work with.

Since I had enough blended to do both airframes, I figured "what the heck" and went right on to fuselage number 2.  Never said I was bright, just doggedly determined!

Funny thing is, I'm actually a fairly accomplished sculptor, too!  I've done busts, figures, and a few animals over the years but this stuff is very unforgiving compared to any other synthetic medium I've used (except other plumbers epoxies).  If rolled out to a very fine (say 1/8" dia.) coil, I figure this stuff is fine for filling in simple joints that are just a bit too deep for Tamiya putty but I doubt I'll ever try to blend contours with it again. 

I kept trying to rework the contours but it either wouldn't blend (too dry) or, after dipping my finger in water, it wouldn't reshape the way I needed it too.  I'll say this much: if this stuff doesn't sand very easily, I've got two models going in the bin tomorrow!   

[jeff3385]

OOOOOOH the humanity..... I was so looking forward to seeing these two builds completed. I feel your pain man.

[Brian da Basher]

I'm very saddened by this news, Mr Howling Mouse. I hope it's salvageable and not as bad as it looks now.

I'll use every bit of grace and finesse I possess and offer a blood sacrifice to the modelling gods on your behalf. This will be done through the intercession of St. Exacto.

Brian da Basher

[SimonR]

I kept trying to rework the contours but it either wouldn't blend (too dry) or, after dipping my finger in water, it wouldn't reshape the way I needed it too.  I'll say this much: if this stuff doesn't sand very easily, I've got two models going in the bin tomorrow!   

This sounds painful - I think you need to get on that sh!t quickly. I've noticed with Milliput that after, say, 24 - 48 hours it goes "hard" but then after a further one or two weeks it goes "super hard" and is impossible to work easily.

Good luck...

[Mossie]

I don't know about Aves, but I've used Milliput a few times & it does sand easily if you get a little bit where it shouldn't go.  Like Sisko says, the sooner you get onto it the better, smaller bits especially tend to go off quite quickly.

[kitbasher]

Ouch!  Hopefully you'll be able to rescue the models, JHM.

[cthulhu77]

Feel your pain!  That always sucks. 

[BlackOps]

Sorry to hear that Barry,   The trick to using Aves is to work in small batches.

[John Howling Mouse]

Guess I can't really complain (too late!) as I'd be sanding just as much with Tamiya, too.

Here is what the noseplugs looked like prior to the Aves epoxy putty:



Here is the current condition.  Yes, it does look worse in person.  I don't imagine that I have either the skill or patience required to refine this enough to be able to finish it in NMF as originally planned since nothing broadcasts surface flaws the way that NMF does!





Now, does anyone know if regular silver Tamiya tube putty (not their epoxy goop) will work over Aves' product or will I create some sort of supernova at the workbench? 

[cthulhu77]

I'd switch over to thin layers of red bondo putty (body glazing putty), and just build it up to level slowly. Yeah, it may take a few days, but it is easy to work with.