Boeing 777-900

[scooter]

The United decals are white, which means they're impossible to print with an inkjet printer, but I have some at the right size from one of the Minicraft 777s.

Ah...although they're now Continental Blue, with the gold speed stripe.

[PR19_Kit]

Nonononononono, the idea is to reproduce the newspaper advert model posted right at the start of the thread, not to update it to 2012.

And back then United were 'United Airlines' in white on grey.............

[scooter]

Nonononononono, the idea is to reproduce the newspaper advert model posted right at the start of the thread, not to update it to 2012.

And back then United were 'United Airlines' in white on grey.............

I bow, sir, to your creative insanity.

[Howard of Effingham]

masterly kit!

hmm, is it rude to ask how you will be transporting this beasty to and from shows?

trevor

[Weaver]

You know if you make the airliner long enough, you can do without seats: just board the self-loading-freight at the rear and by the time they've walked to the front, it's time to get off again!

Excellently mad project Kit! 

[PR19_Kit]

hmm, is it rude to ask how you will be transporting this beasty to and from shows?

That's worried me too, I just don't have any carrying boxes long enough for the darn thing!

I did think about leaving the wings detachable, but then the landing gear will still be vulnerable, so I think the answer is to carry it upside down on the pull-out blind that covers the luggage compartment of my Zafira, with small cushions on each side.

As for the self-loading cargo business, check out earlier posts about communications with the cabin and flight deck crews.... 

[PR19_Kit]

I HATE PSR work! 

I'm on the fifth continuous day of curing the disaster caused by the mix of putties I used to start this off. I've got rid of all the holes and bumps now, but the problem is the long wavelength dips caused by the five fuselage joints, and that takes some serious amount of putty. I've found that feeling the dips by hand is actually the best way of finding them, I get the general loacation by looking along the length and run my fingers along the 'line of dip'. I've found I can feel where they are better than I can see them!

Anyway, the PSR is nearly done now, and I've strarted on the other engine, marrying the Doyusha cold section with the Minicraft hot section. I've also added some -LR raked wing tips I got on ebay (in stanless steel, for goodness sake!) as my backstory mentions them.

Progress is going well now, Telford beckons. 

[Doc Yo]

 Seems like you ought to modify your sig line just a bit....

Having fused a few kits together in my time, I just just imagine what kind of sanding chore this is turning into...
Steady on, and good luck at Telford!

[PR19_Kit]

Seems like you ought to modify your sig line just a bit....

NO way Doc! 

I have to build a few models with normal winsgpan just to give myself a sense of proportion. 

Mind you, I have increased the span of the -900 even if it is by only a few scale feet, more piccies tomorrow with luck.

[Doc Yo]

 Hey,  I didn't say ditch it, more along the lines of  "...longer wings, or a longer fuselage..."

 

[PR19_Kit]

Hey,  I didn't say ditch it, more along the lines of  "...longer wings, or a longer fuselage..."

 

Hehehe, you could be right there!  

I thought I'd post the wings and engines piccies now, as that gives all night for the putty to dry on the add-on wingtips.



The wings are OOB Minicraft ones, with the stainless tips but jointed with superglue. They both took at least three goes for it to work....

The engines are as described above, but getting the Minicraft pylon to mate with the Doyusha cold flow cowl isn't easy. Lots of carving and scraping etc. but I've done it once so I can do it again. Yeah, right.....   

[PR19_Kit]

At the end of the major PSR work, but I expect I'll need to do quite a bit more after the primer coat.

It looks TERRIBLE like this, but just goes to show the extent of the 'Putty Pox' that afflicted it!

[Hobbes]

the problem is the long wavelength dips caused by the five fuselage joints, and that takes some serious amount of putty. I've found that feeling the dips by hand is actually the best way of finding them,

A primer coat helps to find these; they show up better when the fuselage is in a single color. On my Sentinel R.1 build I applied primer (or random Humbrol gray paint) several times to make sure the surface wasn't hiding any more wobbles. I also did some spot checks, applying thinned paint with a brush over a seam or other suspect area. Not ideal; the layer of brushed-on paint is thick enough to show up if you airbrush over it, so it needs to be sanded right down, but can be quicker than having to spray the entire aircraft.

[The Rat]

It looks TERRIBLE like this, ...

Are you kidding me? That's a psychedelic paint scheme that any 60s rock group would be proud to have adorning their tour aircraft! 

[PR19_Kit]

As you can see in the earlier photos the 777-900 was in one colour when I started this phase. It had already been in primer, and then gloss white, but that was before the putty reaction set in. Subsequently it's had at least three primer coats in amongst the PSR sessions and they all help of course, but the long wavelength dips are caused by the differing construction of the various parts, some injection and some vacform. As it stands I'm going to leave the very long dips, upowards of 5" long but only about 0.5 mm deep, as the differing paint schemes and decals will divert the eye........I hope! 

As for being pyschidelic, you should see my RW Braniff 727-200 done in the Calder scheme, now THAT'S psychidelic! 



I've got a decal sheet for the earlier Calder DC8-62 as well, but I don't have a hull for that just yet. They should make a good pair.