Ruggedized Mazda K360

[philp]

Nick,
I never saw a Davy Crockett mounted on a Landrover, only a jeep.  Always wondered if those guys got hazard pay.  Wonder if anyone ever did develope the nuclear hand gernade?   

[frank2056]

I had time to do the "factory finish" paint job on this one. I cheated a bit and just left the white parts in natural plastic; I'll eventually weather and overcoat everything with flat clear, so it shouldn't matter. The color is Testors Acryl Interior Green. The saucer eyed figure is from a DML kit from the 90s.



Changes include separating the seat backs from the cabin wall - it made painting a  lot easier.





Here it is with the recoilless rifle from the DML M274 Mechanical Mule:





I'm not sure if I'll use this weapon or not. Next I'll either add some field applied camo or start weathering, while finishing up the interior.

Frank

[philp]

Looking good.  If you go with the recoiless, mount a tripod in the bed and hook it there.
I still think a MG would be look better but a 12.7mm may be too much.  If you are going with a Modern US user, a SAW would probably work well.

[tanktastic43]

Oh yes! 

[Weaver]

If you think the 106 is too much, then how about an 84mm Carl Gustav? They're MUCH smaller, but they can still be pedestal mounted: I think the pedestal slots into the bottom of the shoulder pad, where the springy monopod is attached in the top pic here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carl_Gustav_recoilless_rifle

[tinlail]

If that guy is coming out of that vehicle then you need to put a wear mark on the top of his helmet when it rub against the roof, or a crick in his neck.

[Weaver]

If that guy is coming out of that vehicle then you need to put a wear mark on the top of his helmet when it rub against the roof, or a crick in his neck.

LOL - or how about blending two 1/24th scale US helmets into the roof as "headroom bulges".......

[Mossie]

If you want to use that particular recoilless rifle, how about cutting down just part of the cab?  You can use the removed side to shore up the new gap. You don't even have to psr the gap, just shape a bit of milliput or similar to look like a rough weld, some kind of impromptu cut & shut done quickly.

[Brian da Basher]

Absolutely brilliant, Frank!!!

Brian da Basher

[Joe C-P]

Kool beanz and werd up! 

[frank2056]

I added all the extra bits, scratch built the accelerator, brake and clutch pedals and added the windshield, which I cut out of thin clear plastic (the kit windshield wasn't very clear and it was thick). I left the rear window out - free air conditioning!

I then weathered it with a Tamiya weathering kit, pastels and some dark washes. Here's a front view, after some months in the field:



3/4 view:


Top view, with the spare:


The doors are cool, but this vehicle is so small that unless it's being driven by freedom fighting midgets, getting out of the vehicle would be tough. I think the doors would be removed in field. I'm not sure if I'll keep them or go with the natural A/C:

Side view:


Rear side view:

The white trim around the seat was easy - after painting the seat, I just scraped off the paint.

Here's the technical advisor, for scale:


Still to do - a flat coat, some extra dirt and mud and add a figure or two. Plus some weapons. I have a PKM with bipod that looks about right. Maybe I'll add a mortar or some RPGs, if I can find some in my stash.

Frank

[Mossie]

Wow!  Looking suitably knackered!

[Weaver]

Excellent! 

I like the discoloured plastic roof - very realistic!

[Ed S]

Well done.  Nice looking model and very realistic weathering.

Ed

[tanktastic43]

Nice job on the weathering.  Can't wait to see it fully 'tooled up'.