Allan-Gerhard Barkhorn's Sabre-Heller 1/72

[Allan]

Hi all,
Here's how she looks at the moment, in tan and green.
Tan on first and then tape masks for the green. Lengths of string under the tape masks to keep them proud from the surface and produce the feathered edge, which didn't come out too badly for my first try, but will need touching up with tan here and there later on.
Next is to apply tape lengthways to the fuselage and spray the lower half of it RLM 76, after having masked the wings to prevent overspray. Then some mottlling on the fus. As you can see, I've removed the canopy, which because of careful masking isn't marked at all! A little bit of work remains to do in the cockpit area.
What do you think of her so far?
Allan in Canberra

[sequoiaranger]

>Lengths of string under the tape masks to keep them proud from the surface and produce the feathered edge, which didn't come out too badly for my first try,<

An clever idea.

I have been fairly successful using 3x5 cards upon which I cut out a pattern, then I carefully hold the card about a sixteenth of an inch above the surface (or, like you, glue a piece of string onto the card along the edge to keep the height consistent). Regular paper might be blown down by the force of the airbrush, but card stock will stay stiff. Depending on how fine you can get your airbrush, you can get a reasonably feathered edge with the orifice shut down almost all the way. It usually takes several passes of each color on the border to make the "proper"-looking feathered edge, but you can practice on "dummies" or cardstock to get the technique down.

At any rate, looking good so far!

[Weaver]

Looking good! 

The string is an interesting idea. I've done something similar with blu-tack "snakes" before now, but the string has the advantage of being a consistent thickness.

[Allan]

Hi all,
Here she is in RLM 76, WEM in the front bit of the fus forward of the fus band (masked) with Model Master in the rear. Both enamel. Almost no difference between the two, as you can see.
Instead of string stuck to the tape, this time I employed another technique of gently lifting the tape from the surface of the plane with a toothpick.
As for mottling, which comes next, doing it freehand terrifies me so perhaps I'll fall back on the tried and true holes-punched-in-a-piece-of-cardboard. If you've done this before please give me some pointers.
I was very pleased with the way the WEM RLM went through my Iwata HB-P Plus. I thinned it with ordinary generic paint thinner bought at the hardware shop.
Coming along nicely, I feel. And yes, possibly cardboard maske might be better. I plumped for tape because it was easier to attach to the surface of the model.
Allan in Canberra

[sequoiaranger]

>As for mottling, which comes next, doing it freehand terrifies me <

It may SEEM daunting, but it's not. Practice on an old discarded model, or even 3x5 cards until you get a stream and pattern that look about right. I have seen, on REAL German planes, such a variety of mottling styles--some lumpy, some smooth and meticulous, some cloudy and some splotchy--that I was "relieved" that anything I did to break up the plain-ly painted surface underneath would be "authentic". Often, too, the closeness or density of the mottle would be gradually thicker as it approached the top of the fuselage to meet up with full color (or, in some cases, the mottling on the top of the fuselage was the same as on the sides). Since this is a whif, then ANY pattern is "accurate".

I usually practice for about a minute before a mottling job to get a technique going, and then SLOWLY tackle the project, remembering to have a pattern that will expose the underlying color about 50%. BELIEVE that you will want to re-do many places, and "thin out" the dark mottling with some RLM 76 anyway--usually a couple of passes with alternate colors makes a finer and "truer" mottle, so count on it in stead of being discouraged by it.

You might even try mottling alternating with BOTH the brown and the green. I have seen Italian aircraft like that (more of a "giraffe" pattern).

Good luck. Never despair!

[Allan]

Thanks, Ranger, that's wonderful advice as I gird my loins to apply the mottling.
I think I'll do it this weekend, during the bright daylight hours, as it's still a little dark nowadays when I get home from work.
I will need as much going for me as possible when I reach for the airbrush.
Allan in Canberra

[Allan]

Here she is in masking tape and undressed.
Still some touching-up to do, but coming along quite well, I believe.
Allan in Canberra

[Brian da Basher]

That camo scheme is pure eye-candy, Allan! The muted effect on the mottling is a master-stroke!

You sir, are an artist!

Brian da Basher

[Aussie747]

Nice progress Allan, the camo looks great

[sequoiaranger]

...are those drops of BLOOD we see in the second picture down? I didn't know airbrushing was so dangerous!  

[Allan]

Yes, Ranger, it's blood cause the bloody overspray was killing me!!!!!
Here she is all ready for decalling. Then to a little touching up with a small brush. I'll try to have some photos ready tomorrow night.
And do you see the little thing on the wing? It's a coffee stirer from Maccas--what I do is snip them in half and than cut one end to a point and it makes a dandy stirer from your paint as the pointed end makes it easy for the paint to drip into the bowl of your airbrush.
Learned a lot with this kit. One of the main lessons is to try to put on the paint a lot thinner.
Allan in Canberra

[Allan]

Deciding which decals to use and setting up for decalling.
Allan in Canberra

[Allan]

All decalled and waiting for the Mr Mark Softer to do its magic. I'll wipe it down tomorrow.
Allan

[sequoiaranger]

Sorry if this seems impudent, but....have you forgotten the horizontal tailplanes?

[Allan]

Not on your nelly, Ranger, they're painted and hot to trot.
Allan