SE5A 1/48? scale Artiplast Kit--Allan in Canberra

[Allan]

Hi---the decalling has started and later on I'll make a comment or two about that, but for the moment this is what my model looks like, with a few more decals, maybe, to go.
Allan

[Allan]

More decalling done and also a disc of leather cut with a hole punch as a headrest and an instrument decal on a piece of painted plastic inserted into the cockpit.
Allan

[Brian da Basher]

Looks great, Allan! I especially like the victory markings on the rudder. Nice touch!

Brian da Basher

[NARSES2]

This is looking really good Alan 

[Allan]

Thanks Brian and Chris,
Well now! You wouldn't read about it, but I was brushing down my model to remove the residue from the decals when I noticed that the rudder victory marking had vanished to God knows where. It must have dislodged while I was brushing the model with some warm water--after all it was an Esci decal and you know what that means. Ssssoooo, I now have the option of leaving the rudder blank or using either of the two decals presented here. What do you think?
I've painted and weatherd the exhausts, having cut off the long protrusion that went all the way past the pilot's cockpit as it looked just like a featureless piece of spaghetti. First it received a gloss black coat which was matted. Then some burnt sienna wash followed by Tamiya smoke and dark grey drybrushed on. Then some red drybrushed onto the exhaust stubs. Silver, too
Allan in Canberra

[sequoiaranger]

>I was brushing down my model to remove the residue from the decals when I noticed that the rudder victory marking had vanished to God knows where. It must have dislodged<

From the last pics, it seems like only the victory markings on the RIGHT rudder was dislodged. The ones on the left side of the rudder remain. True?

If so, then since you have the "mirror" of the 40-kill mark (but with differently-colored kill markings than the other side), then put just the "40" mark on (leave the differently-colored extra victory marks off), then carefully razor and lift the extra markings off the right side. The "medal" with the "40" on it is the "Iron Cross" (or "Pour le Merite"??), given when a pilot reached 40 victories. So if you have only the "40" and medal decals on either side, and without the extra kills, you have modeled the plane at the moment/day that the medal was issued and the proud emblem was painted on the plane. A nice touch, methinks.

Was the "40" kill markings in 1/72 or 1/48? I may have an extra set of such decals I would be more than willing to send you in the mail, if you want a matched pair. (However, I am leaving for a two-week vacation to the OTHER "down under"--Argentina--in two days, so lemme know quick if you want some extra decals. You can PM me for details if you choose).

[Brian da Basher]

I think SR's got the right idea about the victory markings on the rudder, Allan. Of course, I'd simplify things by merely painting over the unwanted white hashmarks. While you can get away with this in smaller scales, it might not work in 1/48.

I really like your paintwork on the exhausts. Very convincing!

Brian da Basher

[Allan]

Thanks Ranger and Brian,
I put the now long vanished decal on only one side of the rudder. I really like the "40" decal and would love to use the spare one, but I have to remember it is an Exci decal and isn't of great quality. The "100" decal is acceptable and comes from the huge sheet of decals that graced the Fujimi 109G/K, which is still by the way one of my fav kits. "100" is a less attractive than "40", but to ever complete this model I think I'll have to play the percentages and use it instead of risking the Esci decal falling off again further down the track.
Next is the struts---I'm repainting the fus struts and once that's done I'll start with the Tamiya clear yellow and see how that works out. In the meantime, I'll matt varnish the fus and upper wing and commence some light coats of Tamiya Smoke.
When time comes to put on the upperwing I'll cement the wing struts with glue to the upper wing and let them dry for a few minutes so they're attached but still moveable. I'll cement the fus struts to the fus and do the same, wait a bit before lowering the upperwing onto the struts and then manouvering it into position before setting it aside. Still lots to do!!!!
Allan in Canberra

[sequoiaranger]

>I put the now long vanished decal on only one side of the rudder. I really like the "40" decal and would love to use the spare one, but I have to remember it is an Exci decal and isn't of great quality. The "100" decal is acceptable and comes from the huge sheet of decals that graced the Fujimi 109G/K, which is still by the way one of my fav kits. "100" is a less attractive than "40", but to ever complete this model I think I'll have to play the percentages and use it instead of risking the Esci decal falling off again further down the track.<

Older decals commonly lose their stickiness. Not to worry. The tried-and-true method of keeping them on is to put a tiny dab of diluted white glue (about 3-to-1 glue to water) onto the location where you want the decal, and then, as usual, pressing down the decal to distribute the glue and to keep it sticking. The thin membrane of white glue around the decal's edges can be wiped off with a dampened Q-tip or even a finger, and the decal will stay put.

The typical German ace had the kill markings on BOTH sides of the rudder, mirror-imaged. It's your whif, but I think the kill markings should be on both sides. Again, you should be able to get a spare set of dual "ace" markings from most anyone here (including me) if you ask.

[Allan]

Thanks, Ranger, for the advice--always well-worth reading.
I went the 40 route, but decided to cover my tail by applying some of the Australian version of future over it, and then thought what the hell and painted future all over the model. If nothing else, it will provide a nice base for the weathering to follow.
More photos soon.
Allan

[Allan]

More pictures. The propellor "futured" and the fus struts with grey first and then yellow, followed by a mixture of acrylic burnt sienna and yellow applied with my home-made rake brush.
Allan

[Allan]

Shots of parts with Tamiya Clear Yellow on them--not really sure if the effect can be seen, but then some modellers put up to 20 coats--I limited myself to about a paltry 5 thin ones. I'll use more of the stuff once this project is in the bag as I plan to tackle the venerable Revell 1/32 109G next and give it a wooden fus with rear gunner equipped with three machine guns!!!!!
I've painted thinned Tamiya smoke all over the fus and wings and will post shots once it's dried.
Allan

[Brian da Basher]

You've got a real talent for painting woodgrain and it's always a treat to see your work, Allan!

Brian da Basher

[Allan]

You're too kind, Brian, and as encouraging as ever. Here's the plane with the cockpit slotted home, the exhausts in place and some armament added to the fus top decking. Hopefully properly weathered with black and grey pastel. I might put some silver weathering on the front grill later on and annoint the whole thing with matt varnish.
Then, ETA (estimated time of attachment) of the upper wing is about Tuesday in 50 or so hours. May need a glass or two of Aussie rose to steady my nerves when I attempt the attachment!!!!!
Allan

[Brian da Basher]

I like your ideas on weatehring the engine grill, Allan. Looks like you've got an excellent base to start from too. My technique is to paint the whole thing silver and then lightly drybrush black over it. I often go back with a wet towel and remove any excess.

When it comes to attaching the upper wing, I usually attach the struts to the fuselage and lower wing and then I place the top wing upside down on my bench and center the struts on it. This seems to make it easier for me to move the struts a little for a better fit before the glue sets. I like to use CA for this because it fills any small gaps between the upper wing and struts.

Nice to see you in the home stretch, Allan! I hope the wine is delicious!

Brian da Basher