avatar_Allan

Allan-the venerable Revell 109 G in 1/32 scale---wood varnish and tail gunner

Started by Allan, February 11, 2010, 06:58:24 PM

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John Howling Mouse

Keep going, Allan.  Understand that it's a real battle but you've got a very worthy piece of art in the making...   :thumbsup:
Styrene in my blood and an impressive void in my cranium.

Allan


sotoolslinger

I amuse me.
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Worshippers in Nannerland

Allan

the rudder, getting more white paint
I'm using Xtracrylix with soft Canberra rainwater, but not too much water




Allan in Canberrra

Taiidantomcat

"Imagination is the one weapon in the war against reality." -Jules de Gaultier

"My model is right! It's the real world that's wrong!" -global warming scientist

An armor guy, who builds airplanes almost exclusively, that he converts to space fighters-- all while admiring ship models.

PYF42


Allan


Allan

tailplane on--never thought I'd get this far!
not in the home stretch by any means yet, just rounding  the bend for the fine furlong
Albatross-like tailskid--painted toothpick all ready to attach
matt varnish on next followed by decals
rudder removed, oven-cleanered to remove paint for another go at white, or maybe red
black spinner planned
not a perfect joint with the fuselage at one point, but tolerable
Allan in Canberra






Allan

model duly annointed with Testors matt varnish and now ready for decals
should I weather this plane after decalling and with what? it looks toylike without weathing
I was thinking of very thinned Tamiya smoke and then more matt varnish, but the Smoke is hard to matt down in my view
then, perhaps, some thinned dark gray acrylic?
and what about the fuselage, should I Future it to produce the varnished look of the wood and then weather it with dark, thinned paint? or weathered first and Futured afterwards?
and the decals--they will look shiny after application, but if I spray on matt varnish the fuselage will look funny, and I can't paint on the Future without getting some on the decals
help needed
Allan in Canberra








matrixone

Allan,
Are you sure you want to add your decals on a matt surface? Yes it will work but you are likely to have silvering problems later on. Most decals perform better on a gloss surface, the flat clear coat usually comes after the decals are on.

For weathering you could spray some tinted thinner on the top part of the uppersurfaces to give it a slightly faded effect, white works best for this but you only want very light coats to add some highlights to the raised parts of the model. By tinted thinner I mean 1 drop of paint for 20 or more drops of thinner. And you would want your decals on your model before attempting to fade the paint so the markings will match the fading on the rest of the model.
German aircraft engines leaked a lot of oil during operations so maybe add some oil dripping from some of the lower panel lines on the engine cowling. Streak the oil drips backwards in the direction of the airflow, and also some exhaust stains would help to weather the model. Most models need at least a little weathering done to them to keep them from looking like a toy.

Matrixone

pyro-manic

This is simply EPIC, Allan. It's going to look fabulous when you've finished. :wub:
Some of my models can be found on my Flickr album >>>HERE<<<

Taiidantomcat

It looks brilliant! Its our model of course but I must agree with matrixone, life will be easier with a gloss coat first  :thumbsup: (I have done a flat coat with decals and I was doing this  :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: trying to correct it after It was done)
"Imagination is the one weapon in the war against reality." -Jules de Gaultier

"My model is right! It's the real world that's wrong!" -global warming scientist

An armor guy, who builds airplanes almost exclusively, that he converts to space fighters-- all while admiring ship models.