BMF F-6F Hellcat

[cthulhu77]

Fantastic job, Sir B !!!!  I like the glazing approach to the bmf, very nice !   

[Martin H]

And he claims he cant paint! 

yeah right!

Great job Baz

[sequoiaranger]

WOW, that is really a nice job! I'm impressed with the NMF, and the home-made decals.

I have had such trouble with over-thick decals (once the requisite overcoats of acrylic are applied to fix the inks), but yours seem flawless. Congrats.

[nev]

Baztastic!

'nuff said.

[Sisko]

Great work!!!!

Nice to see you posting some of your builds!

[PR19_Kit]

That's SERIOUSLY impressive!

The NMF finish is astonishing, just as good looking as the more exotic techniques used by the JMNs of this world. Do I read that right that you masked off the decals BEFORE you sprayed it, or are the 'stars and bars' masks there to define the area for where the decals were going?

Are those Tamiya sprays availble in the UK guys?

[Note to self :- Must buy shares in Tamiya............  ]

[John Howling Mouse]

That's SERIOUSLY impressive!

The NMF finish is astonishing, just as good looking as the more exotic techniques used by the JMNs of this world. Do I read that right that you masked off the decals BEFORE you sprayed it, or are the 'stars and bars' masks there to define the area for where the decals were going?

Are those Tamiya sprays availble in the UK guys?

[Note to self :- Must buy shares in Tamiya............  ]

Thanks, guys.  Was fun to finally be able to share a finished build with you all (not enough time these days).  The masks define the larger area that the stars 'n' bars decals later occupy.

[Daryl J.]

Oh yeah!!!!! 


,
Daryl J.

[Allan]

Baz,
That's truly fine modelling carried out with great panache and generosity in revealing your secrets to us uninitiated!!
Wonderful masking!!! Any tips on preventing paint bleed??
Allan

[John Howling Mouse]

Baz,
Any tips on preventing paint bleed??
Allan

1. Use a good primer (I use Krylon).
2. Use Tamiya yellow tape (anything else I've ever used let me down).
3. Use an airbrush (hand-brushed paint always seems to bleed under tape for me).
4. Right before you spray, burnish down all tape edges with the back of your fingernail.
5. Use light coats, especially for that first one.
6. Let the paint dry at least a day before removing masking.
7. When you pull the masking tape, pull it back in the direction against itself (helps to sort of cut the paint).

I know some modelers who hit the first coat with a matt clear which is compatible with the overcoat type of paint they plan to use.  The idea is that, even if you get slight bleed-through your masked areas, it will be clear so next to no impact.  The matt clear supposedly seals the tape edges, making the subsequent sprayed colors less likely to bleed through the tape's edges. Heard of guys using this technique on canopies so I tried it once.  Didn't work well for me but maybe I did something wrong.

[Allan]

Thanks, Barry, that's good info to file away. I've heard of modelers using a light, thin coat of the color under the mask first before painting the next color and I plan to give that a whirl next time.
My compliments again on a fine model. You're setting a high standard for us duffers.
Isn't it truly satisfying once a pleasing model has been completed!!??
Allan

[sideshowbob9]

Fantastic model! 

[BlackOps]

Very nice! Always amazed by those of you who can get this kind of performance out of a rattle can (rattle can's and i don't get along). Very nice over all look Barry 

[kitnut617]

Stunning Barry !    right up there to your usual standards 

[noxioux]

I will second those choices of Krylon primer and tamiya tape.  Duplicolor sandable primer is pretty darn good, too.

Great looking NMF, John (sorry--I mean B!)--a superb build.  I always like to see good metal finishes that don't require 30 coats of something, or 30 hours and a roll of tinfoil.