"Wand" for CA Accelerator Pinpoint Application

[sequoiaranger]

On my CV-6 USS Enterprise project, I used a lot of "Super-Glue" (cyano-acrylate glue--hereafter called "CA") that I would not have normally used on other projects. So I had to "learn" things the hard way, but did enough repetitions that my skills improved. I like the gap-filling, fairly-slow-setting type of CA, but on some small stuff (boy, did the Enterprise 1/480 model have a *LOT* of small stuff!) my own shaky hand can't hold something in place long enough for the CA to set up. So I need accelerator.

As you might already know, the CA accelerator is a runny liquid that, when it comes into contact with CA, "sets" it almost instantly. What I found difficult, at first, was HOW to apply the liquid accelerator in small quantities and in precise locations. Most accelerator bottles come with a SPRAY attachment that will nicely cover about a square foot of surface. Who would want THAT?? Even a full drop of liquid is often too much.

Anyway, I tried a method I thought might work, and it did:

Make a "wand" from one strand of very thin wire (approx .010 inch). Make a loop on one end that you can easily grasp with fingers, and a TINY loop on the other end that you could slip a needle through, but not much bigger.

Though the accelerator has very little surface tension, there is enough that if you dip the wand into a bottle of liquid accelerator, enough will cling to the wire and small loop to make about a quarter of a drop or less. A small bit of accelerator will also be flowing down the wire toward your bottom loop. That's why I always use a FULL bottle of CA for this to get maximum cling of the accelerator to the wire. Ya gotta be quick, because the stuff also evaporates quickly. So I have the open bottle of accelerator handy, with the wand inside (make your wand a bit longer than the bottle is tall--DUH!). I often use a toothpick to put a tiny mini-drop of CA on a surface, touch the two objects to be glued together in the correct configuration, than QUICKLY grab the wand, lift it out of the bottle, and immediately touch it to the glue site long enough for the accelerator to run off the wand onto the part to be glued (don't hold it there too long or the wand might become part of the part).

The wand will develop a "crust" of cured CA after a while, but that can be chipped off and the wand used over and over.

Let me know how it works for you.

[Jeffry Fontaine]

Certainly sounds much more practical than using the spray head from the original dispenser.  The added benefit of reducing your exposure to the chemicals used in the CA accelerator is also a good thing. 

[Mossie]

Thats' handy.  I've found with accelerator that it can attack painted parts.  It's not too aggressive, but if you rub or catch it before it dries it can strip the paint.  This should make it less of a problem, thanks for tip.

[lancer]

I have a stash of old insulin syringes with fixed needles that are perfect for filling  with liquid glue / accelerator for pin point usage. Theonly drawback is that they need replacing after a short time due to the plunger siezing up in the barrel.

[sequoiaranger]

I was perusing the marvelous "Micro-Mark" catalog of fine hobby tools when I came upon this item and it just "blew me away". I have been subscribing to this catalog for some thirty years and had never seen this before (I am assuming it is a "new" item).

I guess I'm just jealous that *I* didn't think to make big $$ off my "invention". 

So save yourself the $8.50 and make one out of thin wire!! The physical principle doesn't care how much you spent to make it happen.

[philp]

I read a good suggestion the other day though haven't tried it out.

Guy put the super glue where the part goes and puts accelerator on the part itself.  Course, you got to place it right the first time.

[Ed S]

For CA and for accelerator, I use a sewing needle.  I ground the tip of the needle off so that only half the eye was left, resulting in a small fork shape.  The other end (sharp pointed end) I pushed into an old paint brush handle.  You just dip it into the CA or the accelerator and it holds a small drop.  I made two of these and use one just for CA and one just for accelerator.  Eventually, the ends will clog up with dried/cured CA. Just hold them in a candle or lighter flame for a couple seconds and the crud burns off. (Use plenty of ventilation and a fan blowing the fumes away from you.)

Ed

[sequoiaranger]

Ed S--good tip (literally). As far as BURNING the crud off, remember the smoke contains CYANIDE! Best not to breathe much of it.

>I read a good suggestion the other day though haven't tried it out. Guy put the super glue where the part goes and puts accelerator on the part itself.  Course, you got to place it right the first time. <

Yes, if precise placement is an issue (and it usually is), don't do it. It SOUNDS clever, but there is no "wiggle room" or "wiggle time" for any adjustments. Positioning the piece to be affixed as you want it, THEN applying the "hardener" is the best method, methinks.

[Mossie]

Ed S--good tip (literally). As far as BURNING the crud off, remember the smoke contains CYANIDE! Best not to breathe much of it.

I'm recalling old chemistry lectures (wish nev was around to confirm this!) but I'm pretty sure you don't need to worry.  Cyanoacrylates contain organic forms of cyanide (usually differentiated as nitriles) that are low in toxicity.  The nastys such as hydrogen cyanide & sodium cyanide are inorganic forms & can be deadly, but they shouldn't be formed by exposure to heat.

Cyanoacrylate fuming is used in forensics & is deemed to be relatively safe, still, you should try & avoid the fumes as they can irritate your eyes & throat.  It's unusual, but some individuals can become allergic after prolonged exposure.