HobbyBoss TA-7C - Operation Granby FINISHED!

[G.Marcat]

I like both the idea but also as the model is growing: EXCELLENT   

[Ian the Kiwi Herder]

Slowly but surely, Simon.....  - You're nearly there, don't rush-it at the end (Speaks from bitter personal experience !)

Ian

[Mossie]

Slowly's right!  Here's the results, top droptank is the 'control', bottom is the trial.



Hmmm, not much difference, it seems the base takes the colour of the wash.  This kind of showed up on my test peg, but the differences were more pronounced.  It's not quite the same on some of the pylons that I trialed, the wash on the tanks was a bit heavier.

So a few possibilities:
Don't add so much wash at first, be a bit more selective on application
Try a lighter shade, I mix up some Light Dirt (and possibly Rust to add a bit of pinkishness) with the Mud Brown
Live with what I 've already got

I can do a bit more on my test peg tonight, but anymore will have to wait till tomorrow, I've not been at home for most of tonight & I'm knackered.

[Ian the Kiwi Herder]

Hmm, perhaps the original colour plus a little pale yellow (or white & yellow), and 'mottled' randomly using around 10psi and a fine spray from close-in, then blended all together with a pale brown wash.... again trial it on the tanks/pylons.

Just an idea

Ian

[Mossie]

As the Littlest Hobo said, 'Maybe tomorrow......'

[Mossie]

Didn't get any work done today as to be honest I've been too knackered.  I've had a look into the adding the pale yellow shade though, as I thought, it's give it a more sandy brown shade.  It's not really a colour I want to introduce as I do distinctly remember seeing Tonka's have a definite pink hue in 1990/1991.  Some pics show the shade as more yellow, but I think this is more a trick of the light or faded photos, different pics of the same aircraft at similar times show different shades.

If I mottle in a shade it'll probably be pure Hu 250 on a pale shade, although I was getting this kind of affect with the wash, if I added further coats in selected places.

[nev]

I always found Hu250 to be way too dark for Op Granby desert pink.  I, and others, have had good results using Flesh - honest!  Try it and see.

[Radish]

I've used a Tamiya Flesh and Sand mix....experiment.

But currently use a variety of the marvellous flesh tones created in the Games Workshop range.

[Mossie]

I always found Hu250 to be way too dark for Op Granby desert pink.  I, and others, have had good results using Flesh - honest!  Try it and see.

Hu250 is good for a 'factory fresh' finish, I've seen some panels form GW Jaguars that have been preserved at a musuem.  They've either been touched up or re-done, but (without having a swatch to compare) but they look pretty much like Hu250.  Of course, they used ARTF paints in GW that faded rapidly, leaving a much paler finish.  The 'staining' you often see on pics around panel lines & in random patches are areas that have not faded so rapidly, so you can use Hu250 for these.  Promodellers mud brown is not too dissimilar shade & works well for the panel lines.

I hadn't thought about 61 Flesh, I'll have a look at it.

[ysi_maniac]

This is going highest quality, really.

[kitbasher]

The F-8 doesn't really float my boat, but the SLUF - any SLUF - that's a different matter.  Sharkmouth and hypothetical 1990 112 Sqn markings???   

[Mossie]

The F-8 doesn't really float my boat, but the SLUF - any SLUF - that's a different matter.  Sharkmouth and hypothetical 1990 112 Sqn markings???   

I've very much wanted to put a shark mouth on her but I'm struggling to find one suitable.  Probably be 12 Sqn as those are the markings I have & kind of fits my back story as an @rse-about-face Buccaneer alternative.  Saying that, I've been thinking of printing my own decals for the nose art & 112 Sqn might be a good option.

[Ian the Kiwi Herder]

Simon
If you decide on a sharks mouth, give me a shout. I've got some from the Fujimi A-7 (23rd TFW - 'Flying Tigers'). You're welcome to them.

Ian

[Mossie]

Thanks Ian, I've got two or three that I might be able to get to work with a little cutting, if not I'll give you a shout.

[Mossie]

Well, you know what I said about potentially fowling it up?

Over the last week I've attempted to lighten the paintwork a bit.  I've done a few trials on the pylons & such, mostly with the washes.  I worked out that I'd never get a lighter shade using the Mud Brown wash on it's own as it'd darken the paint, even if I used lighter applications.  So I mixed a shade that was closer to what I wanted using a mixture of several washes.  It went on a bit chalky, but was okay once it was rubbed in.

I really needed a lighter base coat though & thought I'd roll out the method suggested by Srdjan & Ian to the rest of the model.  This is where the trouble began.  My compressor started blowing air from somewhere, I finally tracked it down to a split hose connecting two parts together, I found some spare from work & repaired it.

My airbrush has been playing up a little, paint flowing when I introduce air, it's a double action airbrush & shouldn't do this.  The rocker behind the trigger started to fall about & eventually jammed the trigger, I had to strip it.  Took a while to sort it, but I did.  It seems to have done the same today.  One thing that seems to happen a lot is that no matter how much I clean & backflush the airbrush, it often seems to block, resulting in little or no paint flow.  This has resulted in a very splattery finish on the model.  I should be able to clean it up with some light sanding, luckily I'm not after a perfect finish.

I've never got to grips with the airbrush & it's got me wondering wether it has the problem, or me.  I can't understand how people pick one up & after a few practices think it'll be a useful tool.  I only persevere because one, I see other people do get good results & two, I've spent a hell of a lot of money on the shiny little stick & all the bits that go with it.