Glue for Canopies & Clear Parts

Mossie · July 22, 2010, 02:34:54 PM

Can anybody recommend a good strong glue that doesn't attack clear parts?

I use PVA (Micro Kristal Klear), but I fnd it's not very strong. I usually manage to pull part of the canopy up, or knock it off altogether. I've just done it with my 1 Week GB build & it's set my back a long way. I've tried super glue over Klear/Future & I find it still fogs & I've tried 'No More Nails' from the DIY shop but found it too gunky & not really much stronger than PVA.

Any suggestions?

Simon.

deathjester · July 22, 2010, 02:55:35 PM

To be honest, I just use ordinary poly cement, with a very thin needle applicator, and just use very, very little!

frank2056 · July 22, 2010, 04:24:14 PM

GS Hypo cement. This Google search should help you find a place that sells it locally. It's somewhat stronger than PVA and it's very clear (no tint).

philp · July 23, 2010, 12:35:11 AM

Testors clear glue has worked fine for me.

grayman · July 23, 2010, 01:07:01 AM

Gator glue (an acrylic glue) seems to get positive mentions. For me it takes a while to go off, though.

In the past I've used the Australian equivalent of future (holding the canopy in place with tape to keep it still while the future sets).

More often, I simply use MEK or the extra-thin Tamiya glue (the brushes make it fairly easy to get the glue to go where you want it to).

Hope this helps.

Mossie · July 23, 2010, 01:38:32 AM

Yeah, that's great, thanks guys!

I'll see if I can pick up some GS Hypo cement & Gator glue. I've had trouble when using poly before, even in tiny amounts it tends to fog. Unfortunately I've never been able to find a supplier for Testors in the UK, some of their stuff sounds very useful.

Cheers!

Simon.

Howard of Effingham · July 23, 2010, 03:11:19 AM

humbrol clearfix.

i've been able to use squadron white stuff filler over the top of this with no ill effects so far.

rickshaw · July 23, 2010, 03:48:07 AM

Quote from: frank2056 on July 22, 2010, 04:24:14 PM
GS Hypo cement. This Google search should help you find a place that sells it locally. It's somewhat stronger than PVA and it's very clear (no tint).

For those of us who live Downunder, this is available it seems from several sites in Oz. One is here (they have some other useful stuff as well): http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php

Mossie · July 23, 2010, 04:22:00 AM

Quote from: Howard of Effingham on July 23, 2010, 03:11:19 AM
humbrol clearfix.

i've been able to use squadron white stuff filler over the top of this with no ill effects so far.

Thanks Trev, I forgot all about Clearfix, that's probably the easiest to find.

NARSES2 · July 25, 2010, 01:43:42 AM

I'll second the Clearfix suugested by Trev. Gator glue is good but as mentioned takes a little time to go off

sequoiaranger · August 02, 2010, 09:16:09 AM

I'm SOLD on some white-glue called "RC-56" here in the States (I think it might be "RC-57" now). "RC" is for "radio-control". That type of model aircraft take a beating landing hard, etc., so the glue needs to be, and is, extra strong--more-so than "standard" white glue. The only "fogging" I have experienced was when a tiny canopy covered a blanked-over cockpit, so there was almost no air space under the canopy. Water-based glues need to evaporate, and if there is little or no "air" in which to evaporate, the air that exists gets saturated with glue fumes. "Normal" cockpit space seems to be enough--I have only had trouble that once (and that time I ended up "injecting" fresh air into the canopy space with a hypodermic needle, with an exhaust hole, that changed the air enough to eliminate the fog).

Mossie · August 10, 2010, 04:12:37 PM

I picked up some Humbrol Clearfix today, mainly because it's sold pretty widely here in the UK. I'll give it a try & let you guys know what I think.

Thanks for the help!

Simon

Mossie · August 11, 2010, 03:01:43 AM

Tried it this morning, the application seemed pretty good. It formed the odd string when I dipped a cocktail stick (toothpick) in it to apply it so I had to be careful I didn't inadvertently get it on the rest of the model, but otherwise it went on fine. Proof is in the pudding I guess, I'll find out how strongly the canopy is adhered when I work on the model.

nev · August 11, 2010, 09:17:17 AM

Also use Clearfix. It can be a bit tricky and stringy like you mention, but it has several advantages.

* It dries clear, so if you splodge a bit too much it doesn't show.
* It doesn't fog your canopy

Ian the Kiwi Herder · August 11, 2010, 09:38:26 AM

Micro Krystal Klear and/or dilute white glue is absolutely fine aswell. I use both quite happily. But I am conscious it isn't as 'fixed' as other adhesives.

Ian