avatar_matrixone

W.I.P. pics of Ta 152C and Fw 190D-13

Started by matrixone, November 22, 2010, 03:34:15 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Ian the Kiwi Herder

Said it before, always a pleasure to see you work MX1  :thumbsup:

Ian
"When the Carpet Monster tells you it's full....
....it's time to tidy the workbench"

Confuscious (maybe)

matrixone

Thanks again Ian!

More in-progress pics.

I have painted on the JG 301 RVD bands on both models...


The wings undersurfaces were masked off and painted with Alclad II...


Here are the spinners after the decals were put on and the scratch built drop tank and the two X-4s missiles.


The two pics below show the wing roots of both models, notice I started some paint of the chipping now, I will add the gloss coat, apply the decals, and add oil washes before I do much more of the paint chipping process.



While the gloss coat is drying I am working on the landing gear doors, wheels, and landing gear legs.

Matrixone




Pablo1965

Hyperrealism, more weathering and I can hear the engine. :thumbsup: :cheers: :bow:

NARSES2

I see your usual standards are being maintained  :thumbsup: :bow:
Do not condemn the judgement of another because it differs from your own. You may both be wrong.

matrixone

Thanks guys!

Right now I am putting on the decals and might have more in-progress pics later this week.

Yesterday when I sprayed Future on the models I tried something different, I added a few drops of window cleaner to the Future and stirred it up before spraying the models. I had not been completly happy with the clear gloss coats on my first three attempts at using Future as a gloss coat, in a few areas on the models it had a slightly pebbled texture and I thought I could do better, by adding the drops of the window cleaner to the Future thinned it slightly and gave me a smoother finish on the models surfaces. On other forums people have said to never thin the Klear/Future product but I do not agree with that, the thinned Future worked very well through the airbrush and gave me better results.

Matrixone

matrixone

The decals are on and dry, here are what the Focke-Wulfs look like right now.

It was not until I started putting on the decals of the Ta 152C that I had noticed just how far off Dragon got the shape and panel lines on this kit, I was using the Eagle Editions Ta 152 book as a reference for guidence on putting the decals on and its easy to see where Dragon made some mistakes...if they bothered with making this kit at all would it have cost that much more to make it correct in the first place????

Fw 190D-13 and Ta 152C...


D-13...


Ta 152C...



The models will be given a light coat of Future and after its dry the real weathering of these models can begin.

Matrixone

NARSES2

Those side by side pics show the two schemes so well  :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Do not condemn the judgement of another because it differs from your own. You may both be wrong.

Gondor

I hope I can come slightly near the standard you pose when I get around to starting my own bevy of 190's Matrixone

Gondor
My Ability to Imagine is only exceeded by my Imagined Abilities

Gondor's Modelling Rule Number Three: Everything will fit perfectly untill you apply glue...

I know it's in a book I have around here somewhere....

matrixone

Thanks NARSES2 and Gondor!

While the gloss coat is drying I am putting the propellers together and weathering the wheels.
Not much new to see now so no in-progress pics, but in a couple days I will show how the weathering is coming along on these models

Final model for the year will be a Tamiya Fw 190F-8, I am planning on doing this one as a machine that has seen a lot of service on the Eastern front and will get a lot of dirt/mud on it. ;)

Matrixone

Pablo1965


matrixone

Thank you Pablo1965,
The decals used were from EagleCal sheets and they are easy to work with. The W.Nr. on both models was made by cutting up some W.Nr. decals made for real world aircraft and arranging them to make the W.Nr. I needed for these models. The Ta 152C W.Nr. 389017 did not exist so I looked up some of the projected W.Nr. blocks for the Ta 152C and decided upon 389017 as the W.Nr. for my model. I did the same thing for the D-13. It might make some of the JMN types flick through their reference books after looking at my finished models to see if they are based on RW or what-if. ;D

Matrixone

Pablo1965

Quote from: matrixone on December 04, 2010, 03:05:57 PM
The Ta 152C W.Nr. 389017 did not exist so I looked up some of the projected W.Nr. blocks for the Ta 152C and decided upon 389017 as the W.Nr. for my model. I did the same thing for the D-13. It might make some of the JMN types flick through their reference books after looking at my finished models to see if they are based on RW or what-if. ;D
Matrixone

Well, I wait the next step, the planes are worked with absolute cleanliness. Congratulations!

sotoolslinger

Well those are typical of your usual level of excellence :wub: :bow:
I hope I will be a painter someday.....perhaps I could start off with outbuildings :blink:
I amuse me.
Huge fan of noisy rodent.
Things learned from this site: don't tease wolverine.
Eddie's personal stalker.
Worshippers in Nannerland

matrixone

Thanks again Pablo1965 and sotoolslinger!

I am taking a break right now from adding the oil paints to the models, it is SO easy to go too far when adding weathering that I found it best to step away from my work and look at it later with fresh eyes. The worst thing to do is rush it and try and do it all in one session which is a mistake I have made many times in the past.

One problem that I face is being too timid with the weathering process for fear of ruining the model and can't quite capture the look I am after on the finished model, its not easy to draw the line as to where the weathering I have done on a model will be enough when the model is finished. Once you add certain weathering effects you can't always remove them, working with oil paints is nice because they can be removed if mistakes are made but after a flat coat is put on it can alter how the oil paints look and after they are sealed they sometimes can't be removed without causing some damage to the paintwork.


Matrixone

Pablo1965

Quote from: matrixone on December 05, 2010, 11:19:53 AM
Thanks again Pablo1965 and sotoolslinger!
I am taking a break right now from adding the oil paints to the models, it is SO easy to go too far when adding weathering that I found it best to step away from my work and look at it later with fresh eyes. The worst thing to do is rush it and try and do it all in one session which is a mistake I have made many times in the past.
One problem that I face is being too timid with the weathering process for fear of ruining the model and can't quite capture the look I am after on the finished model, its not easy to draw the line as to where the weathering I have done on a model will be enough when the model is finished. Once you add certain weathering effects you can't always remove them, working with oil paints is nice because they can be removed if mistakes are made but after a flat coat is put on it can alter how the oil paints look and after they are sealed they sometimes can't be removed without causing some damage to the paintwork.
Matrixone


I am sure you make the wathering just in the correct limit. Do you know the "Vallejo Acrilic Wash"? I use one year ago and I can correct many times my mistakes, and only need some water a brush and a cleenex to dry.