PSR-1 Prototype

[srkirad]

After all, real a/c often have multiple variants, right?  

I could do the prototype which I'm currently building as the "light" version and the armed, three-color camo schemed "operational" version could sport the heavier tails and slats to show learnings and evolution since the prototype.   Hmmmmm....must ponder.

Well, if you do plan to make another kit, but as a prototype version, then this is ok idea

Maybe you can think of some other differences beetween protype and "operational" bird? 

Maybe wings without "extensions" on prototype version... and oh, maybe if you could try to make a paper mock-up of vertical tails but sized beetween those from kit (left photo) and those big ones (right photo)... Maybe that "medium size" would look better?

Anyway, you're doing great job.. looking forward to see more progress....

Hope you will consult us for cammos too

Regards,
Srdjan

[arkon]

is the spine [original fin] between the two vert stabs gonna stay be removed or become something else?

[John Howling Mouse]

is the spine [original fin] between the two vert stabs gonna stay be removed or become something else?

From back on page 1 (easy to miss in all the details):

Decided to keep the original tailfin mount as a Rear Warning Radar housing.  Figured I might as well open two parts of that up as well.













I'll be thinning out the plastic walls, etc.

[John Howling Mouse]

Have thinned down the walls for the RWR access.  Now, just have to remember to also rework the cut-off (hinged) parts, too.





View aft. 

Added some rivet holes on the IP coaming, too:



And, guess what?  IDF number two (which will be a fully-armed, camo, 2-seat version) has begun:



Thinning out an access port for a more realistic scale thickness:

[tc2324]

That is very impressive. I wish I could `cut` as well as that. Good job so far.

[Taiidantomcat]

Wow!! just wow! 

[Ian the Kiwi Herder]

Wow!! just wow! 

Yep that really does cover it !

Ian

[John Howling Mouse]

Here are some pics of the RWR (Rear Whatchamacallit Radar) sensor package, complete with ridiculous-looking copper and steel wiring.  Sorry for all the pics but
it is completely asymmetrical so I wanted to show various views.  Wanna hear something funny?  Well, sort of funny.  I was using Loc-Tite's very thin "penetrating" CA glue to bond the wiring to the styrene.  I used a thin piece of wire to let the CA glue travel down to the target area.  You know, like the pro's do.  Only the transport wire was the only thin that stuck to the frakkin' tiny part so I tried again.  Sure enough, I encased the entire part in a pool of CA glue!  I had to chisel most of it off with knife and Dremel so it doesn't look as good as it did before I attempted to install the wiring.  I could have used CA de-bonder but, at this point, thought I better stick to things I can control----my own hands and the tools in them.   

[John Howling Mouse]

Moving forward a bit to the RWR's power and sensor control package.  As the chunk of the kit's original tailfin chord/mount was virtually solid, I decided to scratchbuild my own.  It's not "Swanny" quality but it will do (it's going to be hinged sideways, anyhow).  And here are some pics of the scratchbuilt black boxes before any wiring gets attached.

I proudly boxed in the two areas only to realize later that you're not really going to be able to see the boxed-in areas well, at least not the fwd bay (Me = silly dork):











The greeblies themselves:







The greeblies in place.

Without the access cover:





And with the access cover:

[Gondor]

Probably a silly question....... but surely the tail-fin goes over the power area for your RWR? If that is as I suspect then you will need to have separate covers for each side as you will not be able to have a single cover move through the tail-fin!

Great work though and I sympathise about the glue going everywhere except where you want it to go. Perhaps if you used the eye of a needle with its tip cut off to make a Y shape, with the leg being the shaft of the needle, then use the prongs to hold your CA glue you should have a lot more control over the amount and where it goes. I got the tip from a biplane rigging demonstration at last years Scottish Nationals.

Gondor

[apophenia]

Lovin' the details Monsieur Souris 

Probably a silly question....... but surely the tail-fin goes over the power area for your RWR? If that is as I suspect then you will need to have separate covers for each side as you will not be able to have a single cover move through the tail-fin!

PSR-1 is twin-tailed Gondor (at least in its cardboard mockup phase).

[John Howling Mouse]

Probably a silly question....... but surely the tail-fin goes over the power area for your RWR? If that is as I suspect then you will need to have separate covers for each side as you will not be able to have a single cover move through the tail-fin!

Great work though and I sympathise about the glue going everywhere except where you want it to go. Perhaps if you used the eye of a needle with its tip cut off to make a Y shape, with the leg being the shaft of the needle, then use the prongs to hold your CA glue you should have a lot more control over the amount and where it goes. I got the tip from a biplane rigging demonstration at last years Scottish Nationals.

Gondor

On the tailfins, yep, apophenia has it right.  In fact, I'm putting in all this RWR nonsense to sort of lend purpose and believability to this vestigial area now that the central fin has been replaced by twin fins.  But, don't put it past me to do something like build up an area which cannot be reached later.   

As for the cut sewing needle CA-glue applicator, I've heard of that from FSM before but I always wondered how you'd keep the CA glue from becoming a solid clump of hardened mass at the forked end...?

[Gondor]

Opps..... maybe I should dye my hair blond for missing the twin tails.

Superglue is easily removed from steel with a sharp knife especially if the surface is smooth which it should be using a needle as a source.

Gondor

[GTX]

 

[Old Wombat]

Wow!