avatar_matrixone

W.I.P. pics of new projects....

Started by matrixone, January 05, 2011, 03:21:05 PM

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Allan

Matrix,
That little 109: how did you tackle the long join under the fuselage where the fus and the wing section meet?
Studying my model, it seems that much sanding will be required.
Allan

matrixone

Allan,
The seam line on my example was rather large, I used super glue as a filler and did one small section at a time to make sure the super was smoothed out before moving on to the next section, if the super glue sets for too long its almost impossible to work with.

Here are some other pics of the Messerschmitts...the base for the fuselage crosses has been sprayed on as well as the yellow on the cowling undersides and the JG 27 RVD fuselage band. The RLM 25 color used for the RVD band was a custom mix since I don't have any paints of that color.




Matrixone


matrixone

...and even more work done on the Messerschmitts.

The models were sprayed with a coat of Future and decals were put on.



The props and spinners for the Me 609 were assembled and are now ready to be put on the model.


Matrixone

Tophe

Are the propellers' spirals rotating in the same direction? :unsure:
[the word "realistic" hurts my heart...]

NARSES2

Do not condemn the judgement of another because it differs from your own. You may both be wrong.

matrixone

Thank you NARSES2.

Tophe,
Yes the spirals are turning the same direction as per the full size machine.
The German designers wanted to have counter rotating propellers on the Me 609 but the war situation preventing that from happening, all these aircraft were built with the props turning the same direction. ;)


Matrixone

Allan

Great modelling Matrixone,
Doing the yellow last of all really demands confidence, something I don't have--me, I'd put on the yellow first and then mask it because if I put on the yellow last I'd be faced with lots of overspray
The Future--do you rest the model on the bottle of thin glue when spraying it on---can you show us how you hold the model or rest it in place when spraying on the stuff as I'd like to put on the Aussie version of Future once just to have a go---Future thinned or neat??
The 609 looks great with one of the cockpits blanked over...that's what I'd like to do with my 4-engined Uhu, the outer two cockpits, I mean
Best and again, really wonderful modelling...it's inspiring to see that modelling of this high order is actually possible
Allan

matrixone

Thanks Allan, much appreciated.

When I sprayed the Future on the 109 I held the model by the rod sticking out from the nose. The Me 609 was a different story... I held the model by one of the wing tips until I could set it down and spray the wing tip I was holding onto.

It does not matter when the yellow is sprayed on during the painting process, before is just as good as later. The main reason I prefer to paint the yellow so late in the painting process is that's the way the full size machine was painted, the camouflage was painted at the factory and once it reached the unit that was to fly it the tactical markings were then put on as needed.

Now about spraying Future...Future can be sprayed straight from the bottle but I found if you thin the Future with Windex I can get a smoother finish without the fine pebbling that sometimes occur.
What I do is pour a small amount of Future into a small disposable plastic cup and then add three to four drops of Windex and stir it up before pouring the mixture into the airbrush color cup, use high pressure and coat the model like you would if you were working with AlcladII, what I mean by that is keep the airbrush moving and make several passes instead of one heavy coat. Future WILL pool up and run rather easily so light coats are needed here.
About a week ago there was a post over at Hyperscale about Future and if there was a need to thin it, I explained how I thin Future and one of the guys tried it and wrote back and said he was very pleased with the results and thanked me for the tip. Un-thinned Future will give you a gloss finish but if you look at it really closely its slightly pebbled looking, thinning it with Windex helps give a smoother surface and that really helps avoid decal silvering.


Matrixone

matrixone

The Messerschmitt's after the oil painting treatment, I decided to keep the highlighting of the panel lines around the engine cowls and on the undersurfaces.




Matrixone

sturmvogel

"Helos don't fly, they vibrate so hard the ground rejects them." -Tom Clancy

Due to budget cuts, the light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off

matrixone

Thanks stormvogel!

My modem was not working for a few days and just a few minutes ago it decided to start working again. :unsure:
A new modem is on order and will be here this week, I have started some new models today and should have some new pics of them later this week.


Matrixone

lancer

The Master strikes again!! Looking very good Matrix...
If you love, love without reservation; If you fight, fight without fear - THAT is the way of the warrior

If you go into battle knowing you will die, then you will live. If you go into battle hoping to live, then you will die

matrixone

Thanks for looking lancer! :thumbsup:

Not sure when my internet connection will go out again so I better post these pics now.

Below are some pics of my two newest projects, the Dragon 1/72 scale Arado Ar234 P and the Revell Blohm & Voss P.194.






The Revell kit so far has been a perfect fit with little need for putty/sanding...the Dragon kit will need a lot of work in getting the seam lines to look acceptable. Like most Dragon kits the kit itself is very nice but the instruction sheet is poor.

Matrixone

PR19_Kit

That Arado 234P shouts 'Chase Avitruck' to me every time I see the box lid.  ;D

Anything LESS like a fighter would be difficult to imagine.
Kit's Rule 1 ) Any aircraft can be improved by fitting longer wings, and/or a longer fuselage
Kit's Rule 2) The backstory can always be changed to suit the model

...and I'm not a closeted 'Take That' fan, I'm a REAL fan! :)

Regards
Kit

Allan

Matrix
a naive question perhaps, but why do you attach all the fiddly bits of the cockpit propr to painting--wouldn't it be better to paint the small parts first and then attach them?     I just don't see how you can manage to get the snout of your airbrush into the cockpit to paint the small parts
Allan in Canbe