The "other" PBJ B-25. Hungry yet? LOL!

[seadude]

I did find some white kitchen sponges long ago. I'll take a pic of those later. Went to a fabric store a few days ago to find brown colored ribbon to use as the "crust" around the edges of the bread. Sadly, the selection of colors was lacking. I'll take a pic of this too later.

This project should put a smile on even the most "crusty" JMN!!

Hahahahaha! 

[PR19_Kit]

This project should put a smile on even the most "crusty" JMN!!

No chance! 

They're incapable of smiling under any circumstances, even when regarding their own uber-perfekt models, if they've made any of course...... 

[seadude]

New pics for tonight.

In regards to the "bread" I'll be using, I bought some white kitchen sponges that were 1 inch thick. I had to slice them in half and now they're approx. 1/2 inch thick which is roughly the thickness I require. As for the "crust" of the bread, I bought two kinds of ribbon. One is a lighter tan color, and the other is more darker brown. They are both 1/2 inch wide. I think the lighter tan color ribbon might be the better one I'll go with.
The majority of sub-assemblies is done except for one more engine which I have to put together this week. Everything will be "peanut buttered" either next weekend or the weekend of Feb. 4th.

[tc2324]

 

Looking forward to seeing where this is going to go.

[seadude]

Need help and opinions on two items.

1. I want this aircraft to be in a flight diorama type display. What's a good way to make spinning props out of clear plastic sheet?

2. The "enemy aircraft" that is trying to take a bite (attack) out of the PBJ bomber is this (Below). I don't want to have the little windup knob mechanism on the side and may cut it off. I don't want somebody to wind the damn thing up, then the vibrations from the chattering teeth may make the wings or other parts come off. But if I leave it on and wind it up, It may enhance the visual and humorous aspect of the display when at a contest. Which option should I go with? Thoughts? I'm seriously considering removing the windup mechanism. I just don't want any damage/parts to come off due to vibrations from the chattering.

[seadude]

Final pics for tonight. I'm actually making good progress on this subject. The 1/72 Hasegawa kit I bought is of really good quality. But the real difficult part will be making/mixing and adding the peanut butter and jelly "paints" to the aircraft in coming weeks. I'll need to be very careful and consistant in getting the right colors and such. 
Anyway, here's some "teaser" pics from tonight to show how I cut and am adding the white sponge "bread" pieces to the aircraft. I still have a few more pieces to cut later this week for on top and bottom of the fuselage. If you think the sponge pieces are too thick, you are wrong. They are approx. 1/2 inch thick which is approx. the same thickness as a regular slice of bread. I'll be adding the "crust" (Made of light tan ribbon) in future days/weeks.
The second pic is of the milk bottle bomb in the bomb bay.





*wonders if I'll get a WHIFFIE award in the future for this project*   

[sequoiaranger]

>What's a good way to make spinning props out of clear plastic sheet?<

Take a "divider" and scratch out a circle and carefully scissors it , or use another circular-cutting tool on clear, thin styrene. Then take the dividers again and, at different diameters, scratch a dozen or so small arcs that "represent" the blades' motion.

re: "wind-up mechanism"--If it's there,  someone will activate it when you DON'T want them to. So is there a way to remove and "key" the wind-up mechanism so *YOU* can insert it and wind it up when *YOU* want to?

>If you think the sponge pieces are too thick, you are wrong.<

There is no "wrong" here, but yes, I do think the sponge pieces are too thick. You want the attacking "teeth" to be able to fit around the bread. I would say carefully saw the sponges to half their thickness---it will still be a "sandwich", but enable the teeth to bite more "realistically"--MAYBE.

[MilitaryAircraft101]

Stop being such a bloody wind up! 
Looking great my friend 
Option 2, naturally

[seadude]

>What's a good way to make spinning props out of clear plastic sheet?<

Take a "divider" and scratch out a circle and carefully scissors it , or use another circular-cutting tool on clear, thin styrene. Then take the dividers again and, at different diameters, scratch a dozen or so small arcs that "represent" the blades' motion.

re: "wind-up mechanism"--If it's there,  someone will activate it when you DON'T want them to. So is there a way to remove and "key" the wind-up mechanism so *YOU* can insert it and wind it up when *YOU* want to?

>If you think the sponge pieces are too thick, you are wrong.<

There is no "wrong" here, but yes, I do think the sponge pieces are too thick. You want the attacking "teeth" to be able to fit around the bread. I would say carefully saw the sponges to half their thickness---it will still be a "sandwich", but enable the teeth to bite more "realistically"--MAYBE.

Actually, since Judges and model contests usually have signs on the tables saying "Do not touch the models!", I think it would be prudent to not have the wind up mechanism. I just don't want to take the chance that someone (Especially children.  ) sees it and tries to wind it up and may break something.
As for the "bread" thickness, It's not wrong at all. It's perfect! I want this PBJ to actually look like a real sandwich as close as possible, and as I said, the thickness of the sponge is very close to the real thickness of a slice of bread. I'll be creating a table lunch scene and will explain more on that in future posts and pics in following weeks. And No, the teeth will not be clamping down (attached) on the wing in a bite scene. I have something else planned.

[noxioux]

Sorry to come into this one late.  Looks pretty darn good to me.

If you want to do the wind-up, just do it--who cares what anyone else thinks?  But just be prepared for some dingaling to mess with it.  The "no touching" signs on the tables amount to squat, IMHO.  Some jerks think they're in a petting zoo, not a model exhibit.

I hope you're having good results with the Liquitex.  I've never used them for modeling, but I have extensive experience using acrylics in fine art/illustration.  Liquitex is one of the brands I've usually avoided because the paints have a considerably lower amount of pigment compared to other artist's acrylics.  I've had good luck with their gloss medium, though.  I have limited experience with the texturing pastes.  I bought a can of the grainy stuff a long time ago, and had a hard time getting it to stay stuck to anything.

You can have a lot of fun with their "interference" colors.

For this project, I think the Liquitex will be perfect, especially for your bread, because I think you'll really have to slather it on to cover that foam.

Another great tool for building up textures is paintable acrylic caulking.  I've used that to make water/ocean a couple times.  Cheap as dirt, easy to clean up and easy to work with.  You work it as it sets up, and it's very forgiving.

[Cliffy B]

If you're going to be using Liquitex Acrylic paint than I can't stress highly enough that you use the HEAVY BODY ACRYLICS.  Yes they are more expensive and come in smaller tubes but the paint is leaps and bounds over the giant, color coded, cheapy tubes that hang next to them in the display.  Those big tubes flat out suck IMO!  The colors are watery and cover horribly.  Whichever you use remember that acrylic artists paints dry to to the consistency of a rock in around 20 minutes if left uncovered.  Prime reason why I never paint actual paintings with acrylics.  Gouache hardens and comes back to life with some water but not acrylics.  Get one of those cheap, plastic circular white palettes that come with a clear plastic lid and only squirt out what you need at a time.  The lid will keep the paint wet for another day or so.  Saves paint and your wallet. 

Save up some %40 off coupons to Michael's (if you have any in your area) and buy a few tubes at at a time.  Just remember to take more people with you since you can only use one per purchase.

Hope that helps some.

I can't wait to see this thing finished.  Certainly one of the most original ideas I've seen in a long time.  It will definitely turn heads and cause a stir at a model show.  Keep it up! 

-Mike

[seadude]

Some of the links in my first or so posts on Page 1 of this thread are broken since I moved pics around in my photoalbum, but here's what I'll be using to make the peanut butter and also the jelly.

[seadude]

Here's some more pics for review. As you can see, the enemy aircraft teeth is 90% built and will be painted soon. I couldn't use parts from a propeller type aircraft as I wasn't sure where to put a propeller on the damn teeth. So I bought a cheap German Me-262 aircraft kit and used some parts (Especially the jet engines) from that. I'll go with the story that the Japanese were secretly testing a new jet aircraft weapon partly based on designs of the German Me-262, which isn't too far off the truth, since the Nakajima Ki-201 Karyu was an actual Japanese prototype built in WWII that was based on the German Me-262. So........the story goes that a PBJ is on a routine "milk run", when all of a sudden it comes under attack by the Japanese's newest secret weapon.  
Also, you can see part of a canopy on top of the teeth. I'm not sure how to go about creating a scratchbuilt cockpit, so I'm just going to glue the canopy pieces on top of the teeth instead. I want to paint the canopy pieces on the insides to prevent people looking through them and not seeing any cockpit. What color should I use?
Also, what is a good green color for Japanese aircraft? I've got TAMIYA XF-26 Deep Green. Will that be ok?

[NARSES2]

You do realise that thing with teeth is going to give some people on here nightmares, especially after a Stilton sandwhich just prior to bedtime 

Wonderfull imagination 

[seadude]

I need help. Anybody good in knowing about Japanese WWII colors and markings? As I said in my post further above, I used parts from a 1/72 Me-262 to add to the teeth. Last night, I painted the mouth aircraft as you can see in the below pics. But here's a question: Should the top half of the mouth be painted green as well? And should the bottom half of the mouth be painted gray? Or should I just leave the red mouth as is?
And what about the engine nacelles? How far along the insides or outsides should the green or gray paints extend? The only good and decent pics I could find of the Nakajima Ki-201 Karyu which the mouth aircraft is based off of are these:
http://ww2drawings.jexiste.fr/Images/2-Airplanes/Axis/3-Japan/03-Attack-Aircraft/Ki-201/p1.jpg
http://gustav.x-y.net/exhibition/shizuoka2007/02/113.jpg
http://www.daveswarbirds.com/Nippon/aircraft/Ki-201.htm