arkon-papercraft

[arkon]

the dreads are from the game "warhammer 40k".  some cool stuff there. under games workshop.

[NARSES2]

Terrific stuff 

Re the Buck Rogers Starfighter, you havn't got a model of Col Deering have you 

[RussC]

Terrific stuff 

Re the Buck Rogers Starfighter, you havn't got a model of Col Deering have you 

Here is a clip on the fate of one of the full size mockups used there and its got clips of Col. Wilma Deering too.
 
http://www.geocities.ws/buckrogers_nz/thunder.html

[arkon]

sad to see the thunderfighter in such shape,but nice to see the shape of Wilma! sadl no models of her

[arkon]

got some arms and a first coat of paint

[Taiidantomcat]

These are impressive 

[NARSES2]

These are impressive 

Have to agree there 

[arkon]

some new arms












thats what i got so far. goin to paint with acrylics for the first time,
any helpful threads or other places i might look for hints with that?

[Taiidantomcat]

RussC might be able to help you, he paints paper. No clue myself 

Sweet looking creations 

[RussC]

Once the paper has been "sealed" with a coat of clear sealer, any acrylics can follow. For most paper models, I have used a semi-gloss clear finish from Glidden that has a brand name of Polycrylic. Have also used clear Gesso, which is a canvas prep used by artisan painters.
 
Things to remember are that when wetted with sealer, the surface of paper card could warp, especially the longer sections with least bracing. The technique I have used to avoid this is to use a small brush and put down just a small area, usually just twice the size of the bristles, and then go to another area of the model and do the same, and keep randomly applying until the model is covered. Once the first coat is on, additional can be done with broad strokes. I usually gave paper models 3 coats of clear with sandings using fine paper after the second and last coat.
 
One problem that I ran into in prepping coat on prototype paper models, which are just bald white with no lines or anything was to figure out if I had primed the entire surface without missing any of it. My solution was to mix a drop or two of acrylic paint with the clear so it could be seen where applied.
 
 Do realize that all of the drawn details like panel lines, rivets or markings will be obliterated and will have to be redrawn if you follow clear sealer with coats of paint. For markings, I just used everyday decals , the same as on any plastic kit.

 If you are wanting to use basic colors, consider also using markers instead of sealer followed with paint. There are brands like Eberhard, Prisma and Copic for sale in art stores and come in a lot of colors. They apply fast, leave your drawn details intact and no worries about wet warp as long as you go slowly.

[arkon]

thanks russ