Super Glue/Talc as a filler ?

[NARSES2]

One of the problems of not being in a modelling club is that I have no one to ask the simple questions of.

I know this mixture can be used but, do you mix the two and then apply it, if so any particular proportions. Or do you put super glue in the join and then sprinkle talc on it ? I've read the latter on-line, admitedly in a figure orientated forumn.

Any help appreciated

Chris

[The Wooksta!]

Put the superglue on first, then dump a load of talc over it.  Shake the excess onto a sheet of paper, blow anything still adhering off the model and repeat as necessary.

Not heard of using talc before - baking soda, yes, but not talc.  If it's the same as the superglue/baking soda method, then sand it down sooner rather than later as it'll cure harder than resin.  One of the other downsides is that it tends to ooze an odd liquid over time which can cause some micey chemical reation with paint, including Halfords primer.  You have been warned!

[TsrJoe]

i agree with lee re process, iv used both the talc and baking soda techniques over the years, the latter giving a strong bond and is a pain to sand when fully cured. The talc powder route iv found is easier to sand and feather when dried, possibly due to a less crystalisation of the cyano.
Ive not come across any 'ooze' as yet even in areas where iv flooded and built up layers of cyano/baking soda to quite a large depth, cheers for the heads up tho ill keep a lookout for it, sounds like a possible contaminant in the mix perhaps?

cheers, joe

[The Wooksta!]

Either that or the cheap superglue is cack to start with!  You know them 5 for a quid tubes that dry up within a week of being opened!

Might have to try the talc method.

[Rheged]

One of the problems of not being in a modelling club is that I have no one to ask the simple questions of.

I know this mixture can be used but, do you mix the two and then apply it, if so any particular proportions. Or do you put super glue in the join and then sprinkle talc on it ? I've read the latter on-line, admitedly in a figure orientated forumn.

Any help appreciated

Chris

Never used talc and superglue, but I have used talc on its own to polish hazy  canopies

[The Wooksta!]

I use toothpaste for that.

[frank2056]

I use superglue + talc exclusively. The biggest advantage of using talc instead of baking soda is that the talc does not produce a chemical reaction. The baking soda produces a vigorous exothermic reaction if you use too much (as when making putty or filling a large void). The talc mixture is smoother and easier to sand than the baking soda and the resulting solid is closer to styrene in hardness.

Pouring talc over CA in a seam works, but for building up a part or filling big gaps/seams, I'll mix a small amount first to make a putty, then apply it to the gap/hole.

[NARSES2]

Thanks all - I shall now try this out on some irritating little holes I have in my latest resin model

[Alvis 3.14159]

I too have had the odd oozing reaction with superglue and baking soda. I've only used super glue accellerator since and never have had a problem. And yes, cheap glue (or paint, or anything) can sometimes bite you by behaving poorly.


Alvis Pi

[The Wooksta!]

I simply stopped using superglue & baking soda.  May give the talc trick a spin though.

[arkon]

i have been using talc n "normal modeling glue"(testors) and have not had any problems. i put a mound of talc on the cardboard then a dab of glue n roll it all together.

[frank2056]

i have been using talc n "normal modeling glue"(testors) and have not had any problems. i put a mound of talc on the cardboard then a dab of glue n roll it all together.

How does that work? Is it only for small seams?

It would be great if someone made a talc-like styrene powder. That would make the best model putty in the world! I know about mixing old sprues in liquid cement, but that mix has a lot of issues, especially with wide seams or deep holes.

[NARSES2]

I know about mixing old sprues in liquid cement, but that mix has a lot of issues, especially with wide seams or deep holes.

Yup great for scratches etc and for painting over tissue paper for tarps' but you can't use it for anything major.

Must admit for seams I use thin strips of plastic card. Put them in the gap then soak them in liquid cement and push them right into the gap. When soaked they can get to an almost liquid state and are very "pliable". Once dry they can be treated in the same way as standard plastic card - cut, sanded, shaved etc

[Ed S]

i have been using talc n "normal modeling glue"(testors) and have not had any problems. i put a mound of talc on the cardboard then a dab of glue n roll it all together.

How does that work? Is it only for small seams?

It would be great if someone made a talc-like styrene powder. That would make the best model putty in the world! I know about mixing old sprues in liquid cement, but that mix has a lot of issues, especially with wide seams or deep holes.

I found a way to get some "powdered styrene". A few years ago I was working on a vacuform model.  I had a tray of water with a sheet of sandpaper on the bottom to sand the parts.  I forgot to rinse it out one time and it sat for a couple days and dried out.  And in the bottom was a lot of fine white powder.  I scraped it together and put it it an empty 35mm film canister.  I still have a little bit left.  It works great as a filler with either liquid cement or with super glue.

Ed

[Hobbes]

Styrene powder is easy enough to make: just file down some sprue.