Bare metal finish

[rickshaw]

I have reached the point where I have a couple of models which need to be done in a bare metal finish.   My experience thus far has been not great in this field.

Does anybody know (a preferably easy) method to do this without me having to invest large sums of cash in an airbrush or use dangerous chemicals?

Does "Bare-Metal Foil" work?   

[Cliffy B]

Try searching the net for "bare-metal finish with a brush".  I found a guy once who posted the process and photos of several USAAF planes (I want to say a B-24 and a P-51) that loked pretty darn good.  IIRC it was a fairly simply process using ALCAD.

My comp crapped a few days ago so I can't access my backups right now.  I'm in the process of fixing it so if you can't find anything, let me know in a few days and I'll dig through them.

[dragon]

Go to your nearest newstand and purchase a copy of Fine Scale Modeler (January 2012 issue) as soon as possible.  Oddly enough it has a wonderful article on bare metal finishes.

[The Wooksta!]

I use auto sprays from Halfords.  Providing the model has a decent primer, it should be okay.  Depending on the scale, choose one that's a fine metallic.  Nissan Silver was always recommended but I found that to be too grany for 72nd.

[NARSES2]

Yup I use auto sprays as well. As long as you varnish straight away after it's dried (to prevent finger prints and oil marring the surface) they are fine. However I've only ever really done aircraft that have been doped, varnished, "painted" in real life, not "natural metal" as USAF aircraft were

[RussC]

Try searching the net for "bare-metal finish with a brush".  I found a guy once who posted the process and photos of several USAAF planes (I want to say a B-24 and a P-51) that loked pretty darn good.  IIRC it was a fairly simply process using ALCAD.

My comp crapped a few days ago so I can't access my backups right now.  I'm in the process of fixing it so if you can't find anything, let me know in a few days and I'll dig through them.

Alclad with a brush? wow. I used to use Floquil Silver or Old Silver by brushing.

Here is the article - http://www.essmc.org.au/Natural_Metal_Finish.html

And its an OMG to read it.

[jcf]

Note that in the article he uses Testors Metallizer or Gunze Sangyo metallics not Alclad.

I've used the technique of brush painting from the lid of the metallizer bottle for years, for painting
details and things like automobile engines, transmissions etc., along with aircraft engines. The only
full aircraft I've painted by brush with metallizer were a 1/72 Junkers F13 floatplane (victim of a shelf
collapse and smashed, unfortunately) and a 1/144th Junkers G.38. The technique works a treat on a
corrugated surface.

Back to Brian's question, if the desired finish is chrome-like or polished aluminum, then Alclad, buffed
metallizer or SNJ finished with polishing powder (extremely fine aluminum powder) are your choices.
Alclad and SNJ require airbrush application, however some of the Testors Metallizer line are available in
spray cans.
Tamiya Bare Metal Silver and Silver Leaf sprays are good for a slightly oxidized bare metal look, and I've
had luck polishing it up with the SNJ powder. Or at least it looked good on another long gone dead model,
a Do 335 Silber-Pfiel racer (same incident that killed the F13).

Bare-Metal Foil works, but can be very fiddly. Another 'old skool' technique is to use Rub-n-Buff antiquing wax,
an arts-and-crafts product, the finish is fairly delicate, but can look really good.

[Cliffy B]

Alclad with a brush? wow. I used to use Floquil Silver or Old Silver by brushing.

Here is the article - http://www.essmc.org.au/Natural_Metal_Finish.html

And its an OMG to read it.

THAT'S the one!  I was mistaken; it wasn't Alcad but Testor's Metalizer.  Either way you can't argue with the effect.  I always earmarked it to use if and when I decide to do a BMF plane.  If anyone feels like trying it please post your experience/thoughts on the matter.  Thanks ofr finding the link Russ 

[PR19_Kit]

Bare-Metal Foil always looks a good choice, but believe me, it's HARD work!

I once did an Airfix F-227 Friendship, the long nosed US version, in Bonanza markings with Bare-Metal Foil wing and tail surfaces and the underside of the fuselage too. It took for EVER and I was in a constant battle to get the panel joints nice and sharp as every mis-alignment sticks out like a sore thumb!

At the time it was invented, in the early 70s I think, it might have been the state of the art technique but the various paint schemes have overtaken it by now I reckon.

[rickshaw]

I tried the rub-n-buff wax but it didn't work out for some reason.  Didn't polish at all. 

One question I've always had about the bare-metal foil is, how does it stick to the surface?  Do you use something like a varnish and it then sticks to that?

Another is,  do you just cover the whole surface and then tear away what isn't wanted or do you have to carefully measure and cut?

I've located a LMS which stocks the Testors metaliser.  I'll get some and see what I can manage.  Only place I've been able to locate the powder (SNJ) is in Greece and I don't think Oz Post will carry something flammable like that.

[jcf]

Bare-Metal Foil is adhesive backed. Microscale does sell a Metal Foil Adhesive which you paint on
and dries to a slightly tacky finish, you can then apply any thin foil. Either way, applying precut
panels is the way to go. A trick some use is to very lightly 'grain' the foil with super fine finishing
paper, you can then cut and apply panels with the 'grain' going in different directions, resulting
in a more realistic experience. Many years ago I covered a Revell 1/72 PZL P.11 with flattened
cigarette foil (Players actually), 'twas tedious but looked great when finished.

SnJ polishing powders are marketed by Gerald 'Hawkeye' Voigt, and it appears he does ship to Oz:
http://www.hawkeyeshobbies.com/catalog/powders.htm
Maybe he'll give you a Whiffer's discount.

[rickshaw]

Ah, that explains how the bare-metal works.  Thanks for that.  Just one of those little mysteries no one bothers to explain.

The Hawkeye stuff looks ok.

My question is how do you do it to a finished model?  Do you apply the stuff first, then assemble the model or assemble the model and then apply it?

[PR19_Kit]

On my F-227 I applied the Foil to the wings, tail surfaces and lower fuselage first, and then assembled it.

It depends on the shape of the model of course, but generally that's a good move. I could see problems would arise where an aircraft has large wing fillets which need covering, like a Spitfire for instance, as the wing/fuselage joint line can't help but stand out. I imagine in that case I'd try and assemble it first and then apply the panels.

[jcf]

Here is a pdf article on foiling from Finescale Modeler:
http://www.finescale.com/Online%20Extras/2008/12/~/media/import/files/pdf/6/7/d/foiledlightning1.ashx