Masking transparencies

[rickshaw]

I've been wondering for some time about how to mask transparencies.

I'm too impatient to cut out little squares of tape.  I also find I invariably either end up with ragged edges or they're crooked.   I seem to remember reading about liquid masks.  Does anybody have any recommendations on productions and/or methods?

[MilitaryAircraft101]

Humbrol maskol.

[JayBee]

Vallejo Liquid Mask. Thinner tan Maskol and with a bettter applicator.

In both cases I put a blob in the middle of the area to be masked and work it out to the edges using a cocktail stick.

If Maskol is left on the model too long, and the instructions suggest 3-4 days, it can become hard and difficult to remove.
I have found that once it has set if you paint the whole area, for example with the interior colour of the frames, then this stops it going hard. I have had canopies that have been treated this way and after more than a year the masking still came off OK. (So, I am not the world's fastest model maker )

I suspect that Vallejo will be the same but I have not been using it that long to find out.

Jim

[markmarples]

thats what i do or...

buy pre cut masks!

[chrisonord]

That is how I do most of my canopies Dunc,but sometimes, there is not enough framework raised if at all to do this method effectively, I then either use liquid mask or depending on shape or size of transparency, I use very thin slivers of tape to get the outlines, then fill the gaps with pieces of tape.
Chris.

[NARSES2]

I use the tape method as described by Duncan if I don't have a pre-cut mask for most canopies.

However for the real "green house" styles I use pre-painted transfer strip, much easier. Have a sheet of Hannants clear transfer sheet covered in patches of the main colours that I regularly use - WWII- RAF, Luftwaffe, USAAF/USN, RAI, Japanese. Saves time and means I can get on with the canopies whilst other bits are drying.

[rickshaw]

Thanks all.  Mmm, I wonder, Narses if you mean you paint some clear decal film and then cut it to measure?

I'll think about the liquid masks.  I suspect, Overkiller that your method would work best with 1/48, rather than 1/72 canopies?

[mkhulu]

Marmite / Bovril / Nutella ??

[rickshaw]

Marmite / Bovril / Nutella ??

Used, how?

[Weaver]

What I do is mask the canopy frames with straight pieces of tape and then paint it in stages. For instance, on a typical jet canopy, I might mask and paint the front and rear canopy bows and the front sill first, then take that masking off and re-mask and paint the side sills. Lastly would the two windscreen edges. It gets quite nice results, although there is a risk of getting an "overlapping layers" effect where two frames meet at 90 deg.

[mkhulu]

Used, how?

Use it as a cheaper , non toxic liquid mask. Put it on , paint. Wait for paint to dry and then remove masking under running tap .

[MilitaryAircraft101]

Used, how?

Use it as a cheaper , non toxic liquid mask. Put it on , paint. Wait for paint to dry and then remove masking under running tap .

And we thought you were joking... 

[NARSES2]

Thanks all.  Mmm, I wonder, Narses if you mean you paint some clear decal film and then cut it to measure?

That's exactly the way I do it. Very easy, if time consuming, whence the pre painted sheet. Remember to varnish the painted transfer sheet before you imerse in water or it will break up into bits.

Chris

[rickshaw]

Used, how?

Use it as a cheaper , non toxic liquid mask. Put it on , paint. Wait for paint to dry and then remove masking under running tap .

I suspected that was what you meant but I had a nagging worry you were suggesting that we eat it. 

I assume this is "painting it" with an airbrush?  I can't see it working with a normal brush.

[kitnut617]

Used, how?

Use it as a cheaper , non toxic liquid mask. Put it on , paint. Wait for paint to dry and then remove masking under running tap .

Reminds me of the guys in the paintshop when I worked on the floor, anything that wasn't to have a painted surface, such as where two bits of metal were to be bolted together, were 'painted' with grease.  Once the paint was sprayed on and dried, the greased areas were just wiped off with a degreaser.  I also noted the painters smeared their faces with vasolene (petroleum jelly) which had the same effect, only washed it off with soap and water.  I suspect vasolene would work in our application just fine.