Storage boxes

[Weaver]

Just picked up some of these boxes from B&Q:

http://www.diy.com/nav/rooms/storage-shelving/home-storage/bedroom_storage/Shirt-Box-11-Litre-Clear-11757800

They're £3.98 each, but they're on offer at four for the price of three at the moment.

They look just the right size to hold finished small 1/72nd aircraft for transport to shows and the like, and because they come with full lids, there's no danger of the top box falling off it's "stacking lugs" into the one below as can happen with a lot of plastic boxes. These are 11 litre: there's also an 18 litre one that's deeper, and a rectangular 5 litre one that looks about right for 1/35th armour.

THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THESE BOXES:

Folks, my apologies: I've just come to actually use these boxes for the first time and realised there's a hidden problem with them, namely that the bases arn't flat; they're bowed upwards in the middle. This means that if you put a sheet of foam in the bottom to support the models and provide a base to stick cocktail into, it wobbles: BADLY.....

I have also tried cutting the piece of foam into four quarters so that it can roughly conform to the bow, but the result is still unsatisfactory: the pieces are too free to bounce. Of course, if you don't use the foam-and-cocktail-stick method, they might still be okay for you.

Sorry if anybody bought these and is having the same problems.

[scooter]

A friend of mine has used footlocker style boxes and the larger 30 gal totes for transporting mass quantities of models to shows, packed with foam spacers.  They work, and quite well too.

[tigercat]

http://www.theworks.co.uk/Large-Collapsible-Storage-Box---Airfix/5051237024289.html

found these last week at The Works. Good for Stash storage

[The Wooksta!]

I use the 60 litre boxes with lids from the likes of Poundstretcher or Wilkinsons.  The latter had them for £3.50 each at the weekend but the offer was gone by monday. 

[Madoc]

I use large clear plastic storage bins / boxes as well.  What ever is the biggest that I can find at the stores in my area - be they Walmart or Target or Ace Hardware.  I like the clear plastic ones as that helps you see what, exactly, you've got stuffed into each box.  This, beyond the detailed inventory based packing list which I'm sure all of you also set up and maintain...

Madoc

[PR19_Kit]

This, beyond the detailed inventory based packing list which I'm sure all of you also set up and maintain...

Yeah, right............. 

[The Wooksta!]

This, beyond the detailed inventory based packing list which I'm sure all of you also set up and maintain...

Hahahahahaha!  Not likely.  I don't do labels and lists...  No, I don't think so.

[NARSES2]

This, beyond the detailed inventory based packing list which I'm sure all of you also set up and maintain...

Yeah, right............. 

Well I keep one - all those years spent working with statistics - and I still buy models I already have in the stash 

[scooter]

This, beyond the detailed inventory based packing list which I'm sure all of you also set up and maintain...

Yeah, right............. 

Well I keep one - all those years spent working with statistics - and I still buy models I already have in the stash 

Spare parts.

[Weaver]

Just picked up some of these boxes from B&Q:

http://www.diy.com/nav/rooms/storage-shelving/home-storage/bedroom_storage/Shirt-Box-11-Litre-Clear-11757800

They're £3.98 each, but they're on offer at four for the price of three at the moment.

They look just the right size to hold finished small 1/72nd aircraft for transport to shows and the like, and because they come with full lids, there's no danger of the top box falling off it's "stacking lugs" into the one below as can happen with a lot of plastic boxes. These are 11 litre: there's also an 18 litre one that's deeper, and a rectangular 5 litre one that looks about right for 1/35th armour.

THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THESE BOXES:

Folks, my apologies: I've just come to actually use these boxes for the first time and realised there's a hidden problem with them, namely that the bases arn't flat; they're bowed upwards in the middle. This means that if you put a sheet of foam in the bottom to support the models and provide a base to stick cocktail into, it wobbles: BADLY.....

I have also tried cutting the piece of foam into four quarters so that it can roughly conform to the bow, but the result is still unsatisfactory: the pieces are too free to bounce. Of course, if you don't use the foam-and-cocktail-stick method, they might still be okay for you.

Sorry if anybody bought these and is having the same problems.

[rickshaw]

What if you were to cut two thinner pieces of foam, one with a hole in the middle the size of the bow and the other which it was then glued to?

BTW, what is this "cocktail stick method" of which you speak?

[RotorheadTX]

I use boxes like that for transporting my completed kits to shows & contests too, but I like the huge 60-litre flat-boxes.
A trick I found that keeps things from moving around too much goes like this:

Place several strips of double-stick tape on the bottom of the box.
Apply large sheets of bubble-wrap, bubbles side UP, to the aforementioned tape.
The wheels of your models tend to nestle in between the bubbles, preventing most movement.

Oh, yes, and always get boxes with latching lids! I had a non-latching box lid fly off in a gust of wind, and it almost destroyed my Coastal Command Spruce Goose!

[Weaver]

What if you were to cut two thinner pieces of foam, one with a hole in the middle the size of the bow and the other which it was then glued to?

BTW, what is this "cocktail stick method" of which you speak?

Sheet of half-inch thick polystyrene foam in the bottom of the box, put the model on it, then push cocktail sticks into the foam around the edge of the model in such a way that they stop it from moving: 4 or 6 usually do it. You can make "steps" out of foam too, that stop the planes from rocking on their wheels or moving in any other unwanted way.

I did think about supporting the edges of the foam so it sat over the bow, but the trouble is that the foam really needs to be about 1/2" thick to hold the cocktail sticks rigidly, which eats into available depth, and the bow robs you of yet more, to the point where the remaining depth was getting a bit marginal. Probably wouldn't be an issue with Rotorhead's bubble-wrap method.

[Geoff]

Pack the bottom on the box with bubble wrap - place models onto model wrap, and then add another layer of said stuff  - repeat.

[The Wooksta!]

I found the bowing problem on min but it doesn't matter.  I find ceiling tiles too thin and too expensive to double up.  B&Q does polystyrene foam insulation sheeting, 1.5 inch thick and a large sheet is about a tenner, enough for five boxes, six if you're lucky.  The thickness on the foam ensures that the cocktail sticks don't wiggle about too much and come out, which I found with ceiling tiles.  Cut the sheet to fit snugly  and wedge it in so it'll sit above the bow.  The cocktail sticks will prevent movement anyway, even if the sheet is at a slight angle.


Edit: I didn't get it at B&Q* - it was Wickes.  There's a store a few minutes from where I live.  I'll need to get some more soon too.

*Would never, ever use B&Q.  My sister worked for them and they were awful to work for and the staff under her were complete morons.