Narses2's Blog - or what I'm slowly making progress on

[Nick]

Progress on all fronts 

However I had one of those "moments" with the Moonbat. I managed to get her painted, although I'm not convinced the Xtracolour used has fully dried even after 4 days  , and had decided I could live with the canopy/fuselage join. Anyway after 3 days of looking at it and going "it's alright" I decided it wasn't. So I've spent most of my modelling time  this weekend working on it. I think it's almost there now and yes I do feel better inside for doing it 

I know you're an enamel paint fan and Xtracolor often have the only correct shades. But they are awful for drying. I've got a Gnat from years ago that I'm sure has only just dried fully and was only the wingtips in enamel red.

[NARSES2]

I'm not so much am enamel paint fan Nick, it was simply a case of Xtracolour being the only option available, although I could have easily used RAF PR Blue looking at it.

I'll normally use Acrylics, Hataka are my current go to's, enamels for metal parts, Humbrol Metalcoat if possible, and enamels where it's the only option.

It does have to be said that both Xtracolour and Colorcoats brush really well, but Colorcoats at least dry in a reasonable time frame. About the same as Humbrol.

[Pellson]

I'll normally use Acrylics..

Stealing your thread just a little - I'm brought up on Humbrol Enamels, being the only brand available when I was a kid, and then I've just carried on with enamels out of habit. How are the acrylics, really? I handle my models quite a bit, and I am a bit wary of paint degradation due to the fat and dirt you always carry around on your fingers. Even enamels may be affected, in particular some matt coats, but gloss usually don't get affected at all. How are the acrylics from that perspective?

[Nigel Bunker]

I have used acrylics for years. I find the best results are obtained by priming the model (I use Halfords Grey or White automotive primer depending on the colour the model is to be painted), painting it, gloss coating it (I use J&J Klear) then apply decals and then a final coat of varnish (matt, semi-gloss or gloss) as required. Acrylics over primer can be masked with no danger of the paint lifting (I use Tamiya Masking tape).

I have found this to be durable over the years. Do beware of putting acrylic straight onto kit plastic as the release agents used, especially in Asia, means your paint might look like water does when you put it in a frying pan.

[Pellson]

Thanks, Nigel. Very good info indeed!

[NARSES2]

Stealing your thread just a little -

No problem, that's what we are here for.

Nigel's said it all really and very well  The only thing I'd restate is that it is best to wash your kits well, especially resin ones, before starting the painting process.

[DogfighterZen]

If you feel good, then it's worth the effort, Chris!

What he said! ^^

[NARSES2]

I've been musing, which can be dangerous and expensive at times, but every time I pick the Moonbat up it just screams "Stealth" at me. Apart from the heavy canopy framing it's got extremely smooth lines and the surfaces just seem to flow together. If there was a plastic one available, I'm not forking out for another resin one, I could really see it as a late 50's/early 60's jet powered interceptor pioneering the then new concept of "stealth".

[scooter]

I've been musing, which can be dangerous and expensive at times, but every time I pick the Moonbat up it just screams "Stealth" at me. Apart from the heavy canopy framing it's got extremely smooth lines and the surfaces just seem to flow together. If there was a plastic one available, I'm not forking out for another resin one, I could really see it as a late 50's/early 60's jet powered interceptor pioneering the then new concept of "stealth".

Luft '46(+) Cold War between Go229s (reportedly also very stealthy) and Jet Moonbats?

[NARSES2]

I've been musing, which can be dangerous and expensive at times, but every time I pick the Moonbat up it just screams "Stealth" at me. Apart from the heavy canopy framing it's got extremely smooth lines and the surfaces just seem to flow together. If there was a plastic one available, I'm not forking out for another resin one, I could really see it as a late 50's/early 60's jet powered interceptor pioneering the then new concept of "stealth".

Luft '46(+) Cold War between Go229s (reportedly also very stealthy) and Jet Moonbats?

Yup Soviet Go 229 derivatives v USAF Jetbats  Maybe over Korea ? Although I was thinking of it as being used more as a bomber interceptor than fighter.

[NARSES2]

Whilst paint was drying on the Moonbat (it's Xtracolour so I got loads of time  ) I got some work done on the real world Typhoon, almost there now, and the Beaufort. Started masking the canopies on the later and all I'll say is "thank the Lord for Eduard". 

[NARSES2]

Been away, so no progress on anything. Now need to get over this recent trip, travelling does me in nowadays, before I disappear again for a few days next week. So I doubt if they'll be much progress at all before the week after next.

[NARSES2]

Been away again for a couple of days, Worcester, lovely place and the Cathedral is amazing, so no progress whatsoever.

However upon my return October's SAM was waiting for me and it includes a couple of Whif builds. A couple of Sea Defiants, one based on the assumption that the Fulmar lost out to the Sea Defiant when it came to choosing the FAA's new fighter and the other for a Sea Defiant Mk VII which involves the front end of an Airfix Spitfire Mk 22.

There's also a build of the AMP kit of the Victory 357 Hawk which has to be one of the strangest contraptions anyone has dreamed up 

[Pellson]

..Worcester, lovely place and the Cathedral is amazing..

Would love to see that. And another gazillion of interesting places and stuff over at that island of yours

..Sea Defiant Mk VII which involves the front end of an Airfix Spitfire Mk 22.

Really looking forward to that! 

[kitbasher]

Dontcha mean SAM, Chris?