Messerschmitt Me 163 S, Academy 1/72

[MichelC]

Hello everybody,

Here is a WIP on my current build. For those interested in history, here is a short rundown of what's known about the somewhat elusive training version of the Komet, the "S", based on the 163 B (no need to present the latter, too much has been said already elsewhere):

The highlights:

- All in all about a dozen 163 S were produced by converting B's.
- The S never became operational and of the few flights made with it none were actual training flights.
- No engine was installed in the S, its purpose being to train pilots in the gliding phase, the trickiest.
- Pilots' opinions about the S as a trainer vary, from "well designed as a trainer" to "too dangerous." Per reports from two experienced pilots, the one in the instructor's seat could not land the plane without the help of the pilot in the front seat due to an obstructed field of view from the back.
- The Russians captured several samples of the 163 S, which they tested both in wind tunnels and in flight during 1946/47.
- Germans pilots nicknamed the S the "dromedary."

And now to the kit.

This is the Academy kit, arguably the best in any scale. In pictures:



In the box you find 3 sprues, two for the plane and one for the Scheuschlepper.



One sprue for the clear parts.



And the decals for 3 markings (one of them the trainer). The sheet also includes all of the stencils and an extra series of digits 0-9 but no swastikas.



The styrene is without faults with fine panel lines. Decals are in register (on my sheet at any rate; I've heard some grumblings from others on that count...)

Lastly the instructions sheet, which is clear enough.



I'll spruce up the kit with detailing sets from Eduard and Part.

Here are the frets from Eduard. One of them contains pre-painted parts such as seatbelts and IP. Eduard covers the S version too, which Part does not.



Eight pages of instructions for the Eduard PE!



The set from Part is interesting because it covers the Scheuschlepper.



A lot of metal for such a tiny kit! Actually with close to 100 parts the Eduard PE all by itself has more parts than the kit! But I dont' mind.

So why the S version? Well, having at one's disposal the best kit in town, 2 frets of PE by no less than Eduard plus one from Part and all that for a plane that almost never flew, isn't that a Whiffer's dream? So the S for two main reasons: first it lends itself perfectly to a Whif (yes, it'll be the trainer in Luftwaffe service and not--heaven forbid!--the captured russian version) and second, wouldn't it be a pity to waste any of this wonderful PE?

Finally, the sources I'm using for this build:



(Me, a Komet fan? You bet!)

And let's not forget Rob de Bie's wonderful site: http://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/me163.htm

See you soon with pics of the work started on the pit.

Michel

[NARSES2]

Looking forward to this

[Ian the Kiwi Herder]

And how many times have we asked for the 'popcorn' smiley ?? - Ahhh well, OK Michel, you have my attention 

Ian

[MichelC]

Thank you both for your comms.

No popcorn on this site. Hmm... And no coke either. Ian, I buy you one if we ever meet.  (that's not the right smiley either but OK...)

Michel

[Army of One]

Looks interesting.......take it you can make either the single or tandem seat versions from this kit....?? Looking forward to the finished kit......

[MichelC]

Looks interesting.......take it you can make either the single or tandem seat versions from this kit....??

Yes, Army of One, that's right.

Here is the next installment with detailing work on the cockpit. Let's see some of this PE in action!

First a pic to give you an idea of the size of some of the gizmos:



See the levers near the head of the match? I don't use a microscope (although I do know modelers who do!) but the Optivisor is a must.

I must say that although the fiddly bit work is sometimes exacting I do enjoy detailing a lot!

First step: some molded details on the tub need to be removed.





And replaced with the Eduard PE.



The bulkhead separating front and rear pits is made of 10 PE parts (there are 2 missing on the pic).



Once assembled:



Seats are done too:





And the floor:



Soon more pics. Stay tuned!

Michel  

[PR19_Kit]

I've got that kit too, but the Eduard PE stuff looks SO fiddly! I doubt I'd go that route, specially with my current bout of the shakes. More power to your build, it's looking really great so far. 

[MichelC]

Thanks Kit. I'm afraid trembling fingers are not an option for that kind of build. If you still want to detail the kit I'd suggest the CMK resin. They have a set for the pit and one for the exterior, which includes the gun bays. Much less fiddly while still well detailed.

Cheers,

Michel

[Mossie]

Looking forward to seeing it, I've got this kit in the stash.  It's a very nice kit out of the box, the photoetch makes it sublime.

[MichelC]

Looking forward to seeing it, I've got this kit in the stash.  It's a very nice kit out of the box, the photoetch makes it sublime.

That's right! You'll have fun when you do yours, I promise you that. 

[dumaniac]

Cripes - that is little - even on the computer monitor !

[MichelC]

Cripes - that is little - even on the computer monitor !

Yes, it's fiddly diddly business! But I'm going to show some tricks I use to make it easier (and less nerve-wracking), in my next post. 

[Ian the Kiwi Herder]

That's incredibly tidy work on such small etch. I've just finished adding a 'Zoom' set to a 1:48 Hurricane and it was VERY hard work.

Ian

[MichelC]

Hi Ian, yes PE can be tough but let this not deter us cos the results are very worthwhile!

So, here is where things stand with the left wall equipment all done, including the etch and quite some scratch as well. And, as promised, some tricks I use to make work easier.

Let's start with the face of the oxygen system dial, very nicely done by Eduard but lacking in thickness.



The real thing was a meaty affair, which I replicated with small plastic discs, one for the student pilot in front and one for the instructor in the back. The etch parts will be glued onto the discs after painting.



The PE wall is from Part. There is a similar one for the left side. As they are a bit short there was a step, which I filled with CA.



As CA accelerator I use baking soda. 



When I realized that I had glued the elevons linkage wrongly I removed them and glued them back the right way. Dicey business...



Here they are, positioned as they should.



Here are some of the tricks I use to glue the small bits in place.

One way is to use a toothpick with some white tac on one end as a holder. Just touch the tacky end to the tiny part and you can lift it and place it where you want. Put some CA on the receiving part. Take the tiny part there with your toothpick/white tac holder and touch it to the glue. The CA bonds instantly with a much stronger bond than the white tac so that you can take away the holder while the part stays there.

Only thing is you gotta get it right the first time. No way to adjust the positioning when you use CA!



When positioning is of the essence I use the white glue/CA method. Put a micro bead of white glue on the receiving part and put the tiny part in place but not with the toothpick/white tac holder as it won't come off. Use the smallest tweezers you have. Adjust the positioning, which you can easily do with the white glue as it cures slowly. Once you're satisfied that everything is as it should be touch the joint with a bit of small gauge wire dipped in liquid CA and voila! A strong bond with plenty of time for positioning, the best of both worlds! And don't worry about any white glue residues. White glue shrinks when it dries and becomes transparent so it'll be virtually invisible.

Etch is great as long as you deal with the flat and the right angle. PE companies don't usually do rounded shaped such as cylinders. But never mind, with some stretched sprue and bits of hypodermic needles one can make hydraulic reservoirs easily. 



As to electrical cabling, I find that old pc's, printers and broken radios sets are a great source of extra fine wire.



By holding bits of this very fine gauge wire together and dipping one end into liquid CA one can make a very realistic bunch of electric cables.



Here is another thing I use, when I have to deliver a good quantity of CA: it's a sewing needle whose end has been cut off so as to make a mini fork. Dip it into CA and it'll fill up with the glue. Touch it to the joint of the parts you want to glue together and the CA will fill the gap by capillarity. Works like a charm but you have to use very liquid CA.



After all this labor here is what we get:











More to come. 

Michel

[Mossie]

Some good tips Michel and a great lesson in super detailing.   I've got an Eduard L-39 in the stash with photoetch and I must admit I've been wary to start it because of all the tiny parts.  This guide will help!