Messerschmitt Me 163 S, Academy 1/72

[dumaniac]

crikey - that's great - i could not do that with my 48 scale 163

thanks for the pics

[MichelC]

Thanks for your comments, guys. 

Good you're saying this Ian, cos I sometimes think I'm overdoing it with so many updates. 

Kit, I think the pics are about double size, on average, compared to the real thing. 

I just finished with the wash. I like doing washes: you can mess up as much as you want with no consequences. Oils on Future leave absolutely no trace, except where they're supposed to, of course.

I used lighter fluid as thinner, which dries almost instantly and a mix of black and white oils for a dark gray color.

Here's a trick for those areas where the panels lines are too shallow for the wash to grip well: instead of wiping off the excess with Q-tips or kitchen paper just do it with your finger. Preferably while wearing latex gloves. Latex is low grip and won't pull the oil out of the panel line. 

Here're the pics.









M

[Gondor]

can the moderators please add a jaw dropping simile please!

Gondor

[Ian the Kiwi Herder]

Good tip on the shallow trench/oil wash. Thanks Michel, will be using that a lot.

Ian

[Father Ennis]

Always a good day when you can learn something new. Thanks  for the tip. I will be trying it on my next model,too ......

[Old Wombat]

can the moderators please add a jaw dropping smiley please!

Gondor

Seconded!!

Simply stunning!



Guy

[MichelC]

While the mods are at it, could they please add one more smiley, one with a one-gallon beer mug to say 'cheers' to the folks who take the time to say all these nice things? Thank you guys, really! 

I sprayed the flat coat yesterday. I usually like my war-weary planes to wear a flat finish. But in the case of this Komet I decided upon semi-gloss. From what I read Komets usually had a glossy finish, which makes even more sense for the S, which was a glider. In 1/72 scale this means for me a semi-gloss finish.

Here's how I did it. I used Gunze Flat Clear, which is really on the shiny side of semi-gloss. To each cup I added one single drop of Vallejo Flat Clear. This stuff is incredibly matt. Use it straight and you get a finish that's as flat as flat. By adding just a drop of it to the Gunze varnish I was able to increase the flatness gradually through successive coats until the result was just as I wanted it. I could increase the flatness in areas, like the bottom of the fuse and go for a more satin look on other parts, just by jockeying the number of coats. It works beautifully and you're totally in control.  







M

[Rheged]

Many others have already voiced their admiration,  and quite properly too!  Please may I add my name to the growing list of those  in awe of your work?

[Madoc]

This reminds me a whole lot of the type of presentation we'd see done by "ChukW."  And while that in and of itself is a compliment, Chuk deals in 1/48th scale - NOT in 72nd!  Which makes this all the more impressive!

[Ian the Kiwi Herder]

You aren't wrong, Madoc 

Ian

[dumaniac]

eeeee gads - that is small - looks absolutely marvelous

[MichelC]

Mod, please, another smiley needed here, the one that's all red in the face. Really, people, you're making me blush. Plus, I just found out that my BV 194 was nominated in the best Whiffie of the year category! That really is an honor!

Thank you all for the appreciation!

M

[MichelC]

Went under the radar for a while but still at it.  

Last weathering touches, starting with some color pencil 'scratches'. First under the keel, behind the skid where the uneven ground would take its toll during landings. Dark gray pencil.



Then on the edges of the pit. White pencil, which on the RLM 66 comes out as light gray.



Gray color pencil is much better than silver pencil at this stage.



A few 'runs' aft of the bottom inspection panels round off the weathering. Made with black pastel powder, brushed on in the direction of airflow.  





Next the tailwheel. Here is what comes in the box:



One has the choice between the faired version and the one that's stripped-down. Tailwheel fairings were often removed in the field on the 163, for reasons best known to god and riggers. I decided to go for the stripped-down version. But without using the Academy part at all. Instead, I used PART photoetch and the wheel from the faired tailwheel part. Why? Because that one doesn't have a fork. Dunno how that was supposed to work in the real world but it made things very easy for me to cut it off and sand it. Took me 5 min. Removing the fork would have taken much longer.  



The PART photoetch is really cool.



With some scratch you get this:







More to come!

M

[PR19_Kit]

Strewth!

When do you fit the working tyre inflation valve? 

[Ian the Kiwi Herder]

NanoBots... Ive said it before, he uses NanoBots  

Ian